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Thread: Cam Timing Check On 2017 RT

  1. #16
    The torque adapter arm is not a BMW part...it is assumed that a shop will have it along with other general mechanic tools, such as feeler gauges and a micrometer.

    The ones I use are from Amazon. Instead of buying a dedicated 16mm, using a 5/8" Imperial size is exactly the same. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWEAEW...roduct_details

    Use on a 1200 needs no modification, but if you are using this on a 1250, the space between the RH intake cam bolt and the chain is reduced significantly.
    I grind down the edges of the 5/8" end to be no more than 7.75mm thick to fit in the tight space.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by michigander View Post
    Do you know the tool part number of the torque wrench adapter arm?

    I have the rest of the tools on order and was told they were on back-order until the end of August.
    Quote Originally Posted by Boxflyer View Post
    The torque adapter arm is not a BMW part...it is assumed that a shop will have it along with other general mechanic tools, such as feeler gauges and a micrometer.

    The ones I use are from Amazon. Instead of buying a dedicated 16mm, using a 5/8" Imperial size is exactly the same. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWEAEW...roduct_details

    Use on a 1200 needs no modification, but if you are using this on a 1250, the space between the RH intake cam bolt and the chain is reduced significantly.
    I grind down the edges of the 5/8" end to be no more than 7.75mm thick to fit in the tight space.
    Thank you.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Boxflyer View Post
    I have probably done these checks well over 200 times...most, first time looks, some have been checked a dozen times or so.

    I think that if you watch this video of the assembly of the WetHead boxer engine, it will let you see the number of points of contact between the rotor of the alternator where TDC is established and the Cam Alignment Jig where play shows up.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R817so8zhUY

    There is wear-in play in every one of these metal to metal power transfer points, small, but it shows up in the way of cam timing being different than when it was set perfectly at the factory.
    Perfectly normal and is similar in every machine in the World.

    Example in the bikes we're talking about:

    The front end of the crankshaft gears drive the clutch and the shaft in shaft counterbalance shaft. The LH valve train chain is driven from the crankshaft between the cylinders and the alternator with 102 links in the chain, and the RH cams are driven from the lower counterbalance shaft directly below the crank driven chain, and has 106 links. The chain and sprockets on the WetHead are traditional roller link chains on sprockets, but the ShiftHead has different cut gears and uses a multi-leaf link style chain.
    Once the chain drive gets power out to the valve cover, there is an intermediate shaft gear that drives both the INT and EXH gear wheels, connected directly to the cams.

    It doesn't surprise me a bit that everything wears in along this number of meshing gears and lengths of chain.
    So you believe this to be an engine DESIGN issue rather than sloppy assembly at the factory?

    Iím just very surprised it has gone on as long as it has. I noticed it was off on my 2011 quite a bit during a valve clearance check. I took it to a dealer hoping BMW would correct it but they declined and i was charged $350. It runs much better now. Considering how critical cam timing is to any engine, itís odd BMW has not addressed this issue.

    Is anyone aware of similar cam timing issues on anyone else's engine designs?
    -Live as fully as you can as long as you can-

  4. #19
    Old Rider - OK Mechanic 105258's Avatar
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    Cam timing off

    Quote Originally Posted by LFarling View Post
    Of the 35 or so 1200's I have checked at least 85% were off. That is GS/GSA/RT included.

    Now it is a go, or no go, with the cam alignment jig so some would barley not go on the jig, and to others that were not even close. But in this situation if the jig does not go on it is out.

    The other biggie is the cam position sensor on the left side. That has been off to some degree on almost all the bikes I have checked.



    IMHO I would do it or have it done so you know.

    I am very paranoid over the cam wear issue so every 6K I check my cam timing, inspect my cam lobes and check valves. Lot of work for a 6K service but I have the time and I love spinning wrenches.

    I had my new 17.5 GS open at 300 miles and the cam timing and cam position sensor was off. As a bonus I found every exhaust valve at the low end of the scale. I watched them until my 12K service and replaced all exhaust shims for a looser fit.

    I am sure you are fine but when something with a check of it goes on, or does not go on, then IMHO it needs to be checked and corrected if need be.

    I'm with you. Every bike I have checked, about a dozen, the cam timing has been off at 10,000 kms. Often some valves need to be re shimed. The cam positioning sensor is ok on some but more often then not needs adjustment
    . When all is adjusted the engine is quieter and way smoother. It's worth the check.
    David Nicholls
    Teulon Manitoba - Canada

    2015 R1200GSA-LC

  5. #20
    Registered User LFarling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 105258 View Post
    I'm with you. Every bike I have checked, about a dozen, the cam timing has been off at 10,000 kms. Often some valves need to be re shimed. The cam positioning sensor is ok on some but more often then not needs adjustment
    . When all is adjusted the engine is quieter and way smoother. It's worth the check.
    Big +1
    The above is worth what you paid for it..........
    Lee 2017.5 R 1200 GSW

  6. #21
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    At what mileage would you say the cams are good and you just need to check for adjustment? I sold my 14R1200RT at 57,000 +, no wear but I did need to adjust the cam timing and I did shim changes at a couple of inspection times.

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