Oil change technique?

I don't have a motorcycle lift, I just park over a Blitz metal sheet and put a big catch pan below it. The bike was infinity hot because it's a hot day today. I turned a fan on it to maybe cool the bike. It didn't work.

I didn't burn myself but I made a mess as usual all over the center stand as well. Filter came off and spilled, dropped the socket and oil plug in the pan. The plug is boogered up and the Allen socket doesn't fit well. Was going to.order another one and forgot.

So experts, how do you do this? What's your technique?

R65_Steve said:

I don't have a motorcycle lift, I just park over a Blitz metal sheet and put a big catch pan below it. The bike was infinity hot because it's a hot day today. I turned a fan on it to maybe cool the bike. It didn't work.

I didn't burn myself but I made a mess as usual all over the center stand as well. Filter came off and spilled, dropped the socket and oil plug in the pan. The plug is boogered up and the Allen socket doesn't fit well. Was going to.order another one and forgot.

So experts, how do you do this? What's your technique?

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If someone has a better way, I gots to know, eh?

Over 40 years as a pro wrench, I still make a mess!

I actually use TWO of the common plastic 6" high oil-catch pans.
After unscrewing the filler cap (so air can displace the oil as it drains), the first oil pan catches the majority of the main drain.
Then I do a quick swap, and the second pan catches the oil filter plus the additional drippage.
I also wear those blue nitrile gloves, even though they make the job a bit more slippery.
Afterward, I still usually have to wipe up a few drops with a paper towel...

I do basically the same as those above with one large oil pan placed on cardboard. The pan has a spot to place and drain the filter. A BMW shop does basic maintenance seminars for us. When it comes to the drain plug, the head mechanic, gloveless, once the torque is loosened, undoes the bolt by finger tips and at precisely the right movement, pulls the plug away with not a drop of oil his fingers. I have yet to master that technique.

I do oil changes on both the lift and the floor as I often do both bikes at the same time in late fall. Although the the technique is the same, doing the change on the lift is definitely easier.

If it makes you feel any better about messy oil changes, despite years of changing oil on my K, I literally messed up last fall. Bike was on the lift and as I stood on the right side of the bike, I said yes to having torqued the oil, transmission and finally drain plugs so I began with the first litre of engine oil. About two thirds through that litre I remembered that the oil filter cover was only finger tightened, not torqued. Cardboard under the bikes, at least for me, helps with any spills.

Don’t be discouraged getting the occasional mess.

Change

I get the big turkey roaster pans at the $1.25 store, they have the needed capacity and when I dump the used oil back in a container it’s easy to bend a corner into a spout

I have found that there is less mess if I take off the filter before drain plug.

I get the big turkey roaster pans at the $1.25 store, they have the needed capacity and when I dump the used oil back in a container it’s easy to bend a corner into a spout

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I had not thought of this. I may give it a try. I am glad not the only one who makes a mess. The last time I changed the oil I dropped the drain plug into the oil drain pan...twice.

R100R Rider said:

I have found that there is less mess if I take off the filter before drain plug.

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I tried this once and found (for me), it created more mess. Obviously our results differ.

I've begun changing my oils cold, or only somewhat warm. When I have the time, I'll let them drain overnight. There are tests that show changing the oil when hot does not make a difference in the amount of oil drained or dirt left behind.

Drain plug is loosened, then spun out with thumb and middle finger, using my index finger to maintain a little upward pressure. This helps keep oil from getting past the threads until I can feel that the plug is free and I can pull it away. Doesn't always keep my fingers clean, but it usually works.

Amazon seems to provide an endless supply of cardboard to catch any splatters or spills around the drain pan. I used to use newspaper, but the local rag is no longer worth the subscription and the delivery was unreliable. Screen pixels don't absorb much oil.

My drain pan (like this) is deep enough that it does catch most splashes. I keep looking at the combo pan/recycling container style, but suspect they would not catch the splash as the oil hits the shallow pan. Has anyone tried using these?

Messiest part of oil changes on my R1200 is the transmission oil, which likes to run down the case onto the frame and exhaust. Heavy foil from a store-bought pie works well to redirect the flow into the pan. A fresh pie is required part of every oil change.

bluehole said:

I had not thought of this. I may give it a try. I am glad not the only one who makes a mess. The last time I changed the oil I dropped the drain plug into the oil drain pan...twice.

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Everyone that changes their own oil needs a good stick magnet to extract drain plugs from the bottom of the drain pan.

For me Oil and Paint is like Dog ****, gets everywhere you don't want it to be. Can't remember the last time I had an oil change where it didn't get spilled somewhere.

For years I have been using WEE-WEE Pads that are used for puppy training. If you do, make a spill instead of oil running off the cardboard. The oil gets adsorbed in the material.

I like the idea of the pee pads. I have every tool imaginable except a motorcycle lift. All the magnet sticks and I still drop stuff in the pan so i get to use them. I'm a little nervous because I'm afraid I'll burn my arm on the pipes. Or engine. The other side isn't any better.

The metal pan contains the errors. But you still have to clean that up.

I had a 944 with the filter on the top of the engine buried in the pop up headlight mechanism. So you were guaranteed to.make a mess. Poking a hole in it meant you could make.two messes.

Old 911s have 11 quarts. And you need to drain the external tank and rhe sump (engine).

No oil seems to be hotter than this oilhead. Next time I might do it cold.

Glad I'm not the only one making a mess.doing this.

jrogers said:

For me Oil, Paint and Never-seize is like Dog ****, gets everywhere you don't want it to be. Can't remember the last time I had an oil change where it didn't get spilled somewhere.

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FTFY
OM

R65_Steve said:

I like the idea of the pee pads. I have every tool imaginable except a motorcycle lift. All the magnet sticks and I still drop stuff in the pan so i get to use them. I'm a little nervous because I'm afraid I'll burn my arm on the pipes. Or engine. The other side isn't any better.

The metal pan contains the errors. But you still have to clean that up.

I had a 944 with the filter on the top of the engine buried in the pop up headlight mechanism. So you were guaranteed to.make a mess. Poking a hole in it meant you could make.two messes.

Old 911s have 11 quarts. And you need to drain the external tank and rhe sump (engine).

No oil seems to be hotter than this oilhead. Next time I might do it cold.

Glad I'm not the only one making a mess.doing this.

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I had a few 944s and a 911SC -- they were easier (and less messy) for oil changes than my F650GS. The R1100RSL is easier than any Porsche I've had. The 911SC did have a habit of actively marking its spot between changes, however (requiring a diaper pan that got pretty messy). I don't miss the 11 quart oil changes. I do miss the car, though.

I use the plastic oil catcher/container I used for the cars.
The hole into the container won't let the drain plug fall in.
When it's full I take it to the auto parts store to drain.
I have started using puppy pads underneath and it really helps.
I still manage to get some on the floor, but not a lot.