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Thread: 1100GS Clutch Conundrum

  1. #1

    1100GS Clutch Conundrum

    I have a '95 1100GS, 3rd owner, 54,000 miles. A while back I started noticing some clutch slippage stuff and figured it was time for a new one to be installed. I procrastinated a long time, due to my fears of the unknown clutch magic that happens. Turns out it was not that bad, just took a good while doing it. Used Chris Harris' 1100RT clutch video on Youtube. This was a great help, he takes you through all the tear down and rebuild steps giving great tips as he goes.

    I finally got it all put back together and took it out for the first all day ride. It seems that the new clutch pack (clutch disc, pressure plates, and spring plate) from Beemer Boneyard was not the answer to my problems. The same slippage was happening like before, plus it was much worse in 1st gear from a standstill. Here are the slipping characteristics. It takes several seconds for the clutch to completely engage 1st gear once the lever is released when starting from a stop. Another way of looking at it is I cannot pop the clutch in 1st gear and spin the rear wheel. This slow engagement sometimes happens when shifting up to 2nd or 3rd gear. When cruising along in 3rd, 4th, or 5th, if I need to roll on throttle quickly to jump ahead or make a quick pass, it slips when I add throttle. This often leaves me hanging when i need a burst of speed. When I was coming home this afternoon, it was everything I could do to start at a light and get moving. Had to use high revs to get the clutch to finally engage. My driveway is pretty steep, but today was the first time I have not been able to get up the driveway in 1st. It started slipping completely halfway up. I had to stop and roll backwards to the road to try again. Once in the garage I could smell what I think was the clutch, similar to the smell of hot brake pads.

    I put about 300 miles on it today, and these were the first real miles on the new clutch. I set the nuts at the shift lever to 12mm distance and the cable free play distance to 7mm, per BMW specs and what Chris Harris indicated in his video. So it should be set to go. There was no oil leakage on the old clutch when I pulled it out and the whole area seemed dry and clean (relatively), so I don't think there are any oil seals leaking. All the splines looked to be in good condition, though dry, so I did the spline lube for the drive shaft joints. Unfortunately I assumed the old clutch was bad, so I did not take a measurement to see if it was worn before tossing in the garbage.

    As I thought about it today and this evening, it seems as though the clutch plates are not maintaining pressure on the clutch disc, even when the lever is fully released. I wondered if it might be something in the transmission, but am not sure how that would release pressure between the plates on the clutch disc. I am completely stumped on this one. I did a search on dry clutch issues prior to posting, but could not find anything similar. I have also searched ADVRider and posted a question there. What am I missing?

    Thanks

    Jack
    Confused in Carolina

  2. #2
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    did you replace the cable? when it was disconnected was it free running?

    when I did the clutch on my 97 1100RT, it ended up so easy and smooth to release and engage it feels like its going to slip but does not

    was everything clean and smooth from the pressure rod, throw out bearing etc? The throw out bearing is in a bore in the transmission case as you know now. I replaced that as well.
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  3. #3
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    It is very possible that the vulcanized rubber bush in the driveshaft is slipping.
    Evidence is the rubber balling on the outer surface.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

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  4. #4
    #13338 PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    It is very possible that the vulcanized rubber bush in the driveshaft is slipping.
    Evidence is the rubber balling on the outer surface.
    I had that same thought.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #5
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    What you might see - left slipped
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    What you might see - left slipped
    Where might I look for this that is in the photo?

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    #13338 PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbculbreth149 View Post
    Where might I look for this that is in the photo?

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    That is the rear view of the front portion of the two piece driveshaft.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  8. #8
    Registered User lkraus's Avatar
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    If the shaft is slipping in the rubber, I think that the U-joints will likely be out of phase.
    Larry
    2006 R1200RT

  9. #9
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkraus View Post
    If the shaft is slipping in the rubber, I think that the U-joints will likely be out of phase.
    That would depend entirely on the last person in there installing them in phase.
    That cannot be relied on unless it is the keyed GSA1150 shaft (which it won't be)
    '
    Ufda happens..........

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