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brownie0486

Well-known member
Had the 2011 RT serviced for the upcoming trip. Oil change, splines lubed on drive shaft, new tires and running lights installed. When I picked up the work order I read this

"drive shaft has some notching in the joints, overall okay" The RT just turned 17K. When I spoke to my mechanic, he said he sees it often enough. Not to worry about it on the trip. Asked him if if should be replaced, he said we'll look at it when I get around 30-40K on the bike and that he lubed everything really well.

New drive shaft is like 1400.00 [ I checked ]. Would this be a warranty issue, I'm on an extended warranty program.

Thanks, anyone else familiar with the above/experienced the same?
 
Well, considering any U-Joints I am familiar with are supposed to be completely smooth through the range of movement, I wonder about the report you received. :scratch
:dunno
OM
 
Well, considering any U-Joints I am familiar with are supposed to be completely smooth through the range of movement, I wonder about the report you received. :scratch
:dunno
OM

That's why I asked here. The mechanic is a master bmw technician with 20 years working on them. He told me he sees the notching regularly enough, and the ones on mine didn't seem to bother him, said ride it and we'll keep an eye on it when the bike gets to 30-40K miles.

So you've never heard it mentioned here about the notching in the joints?
 
I have done quite a few U-Joints on cars, 4X4’s, agricultural machinery and so on. The “cups” on the four sides are full of needle “pins” which ride on the “cross”. When new, properly installed, the pivot is velvety smooth.
OTOH- I have seen the cross wear through the pins and the cups and still function although adding vibration.
From what I have read here, it is most likely a maintenance item at some point. There seems to be some interesting “home” rebuilding of the shafts and I think there is a dealer offering a shaft that is able to be rebuilt.
If your guy thinks it is fine, good enough for me.
OM
 
If you use the “Tag Cloud”, as you enter “dri” on the way to “driveshaft” you can pick any of the number of threads on the subject.
Good luck.
OM
 
I agree with GSAddict on getting a Ted Porter driveshaft, but you asked who rebuilds OE shafts. These folks rebuilt mine on my 2017 GSA (https://www.machineservice.com/) and have done many other BMW bikes. Had it done about 18 months ago. Cost was $230 plus a total of $50 for shipping both ways.
 
I agree with GSAddict on getting a Ted Porter driveshaft, but you asked who rebuilds OE shafts. These folks rebuilt mine on my 2017 GSA (https://www.machineservice.com/) and have done many other BMW bikes. Had it done about 18 months ago. Cost was $230 plus a total of $50 for shipping both ways.

I have his link bookmarked for later purchase. And thanks for that link as well. Also bookmarked for future reference.
 
I agree with GSAddict on getting a Ted Porter driveshaft, but you asked who rebuilds OE shafts. These folks rebuilt mine on my 2017 GSA (https://www.machineservice.com/) and have done many other BMW bikes. Had it done about 18 months ago. Cost was $230 plus a total of $50 for shipping both ways.
Machine Service did a driveshaft rebuild for me a couple of years ago on a spare used one I picked up on eBay. I put it on a garage shelf for eventual R & R and did install it about 5000 miles ago after 120,000 miles on the original.
 
Machine Service, drive line rebuild

Was very happy to find that Machine Service of Green Bay, WI would rebuild the driveshaft of my 2008 R12GSA the winter of 2017. Other options were "pricey". The bike had 64K on it and had developed noticeable "tight" spots when rotating the wheel. Price was around $260 then and the turn around would have been quicker but the roof fell in on their shop due to snow load that winter. It was suggested that the rebuilt shaft be pulled and lubed (it has grease zerks!) at 20-24K which I just did the other day. PIA to put that drive shaft back in and I messed up the front gaiter in the process so a new one is ordered. I'll get some more practice pulling and reinstalling that shaft that way. Apparently that rear plastic clip piece on the gaiter is necessary as it opens up when riding now. If there is a trick to lining up that front spline joint I'd appreciate hearing about it.
 
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