RadioFlyer
Right2Repair
The CAN-bus involvement is a popular misconception. It is the ZFE that controls all chassis electrics.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
Replacing headlights to LED one
- Thread starter ontherider
- Start date
RadioFlyer
Right2Repair
I measured the current draw of my Cyclops LED at either 2.4 or 2.6 amps versus 4.5 for the halogen bulb. I don't see any resistor. I do see a LED driver.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
The link in post # 19 shows a resistor, probably they upgraded the electronics... My Speedmetal doesn't have a resistor either. It's rated at 24 watts (my stock halogen is 55W), which equates to 2 amps at 12 volts. (slightly higher voltage -> slightly higher current)
Some LED bulbs, such as the Hikari H7 I put in my R1150RT, seem to run at constant power. I measured current at several voltages from 11.0 to 14.2 and found the current decreased with increasing voltage, with the power remaining constant.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
With "real" electronics, it's pretty easy to incorporate a three-terminal voltage regulator - input, output, and ground/common - to reduce the bike's 12 VDC (or whatever the stock regulator allows, maybe 13, 13.5, etc.) to anything the LED requires; it's just a matter of selecting one that can handle the required current thruput.
This is probably what they now incorporate into the little "driver" box (just an educated WAG).
I don't know much about what's inside of them, aside from them being operational amplifiers, but their job is to maintain a constant output over a varying range of inputs, so maybe it makes sense that they need less current to run themselves if the input voltage increases.
I was surprised to see that it didn't matter which way I plugged in the 2-conductor connection to my H7 low-beam headlight... This "may" be that the op amp actually puts out AC at twice the LED's required voltage, so only half of an AC cycle is actually used. Another WAG.
Doesn't matter, as long as it works and fulfills our needs!
This is probably what they now incorporate into the little "driver" box (just an educated WAG).
I don't know much about what's inside of them, aside from them being operational amplifiers, but their job is to maintain a constant output over a varying range of inputs, so maybe it makes sense that they need less current to run themselves if the input voltage increases.
I was surprised to see that it didn't matter which way I plugged in the 2-conductor connection to my H7 low-beam headlight... This "may" be that the op amp actually puts out AC at twice the LED's required voltage, so only half of an AC cycle is actually used. Another WAG.
Doesn't matter, as long as it works and fulfills our needs!
jharpphoto
Member
Cyclops model
I’m confused about which cyclops to order for my 2013 RT. One model says 2005-2012 ( includes 2013 standard model). The other model says 2013-2020. My bike is 2013 50 anniversary Jahre edition. Which model should I order?
I’m confused about which cyclops to order for my 2013 RT. One model says 2005-2012 ( includes 2013 standard model). The other model says 2013-2020. My bike is 2013 50 anniversary Jahre edition. Which model should I order?
RadioFlyer
Right2Repair
I am pretty sure that the job of an LED driver is to maintain a constant current as the forward voltage drop of a diode varies with temperature. Also I would speculate that steering diodes are used to render the connection polarity moot.
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
If your bike is the water-cooled version, I would say get the 2013-2020.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Flyer - agreed!
JHarp - contact Cyclops directly and tell them your build date, or ask your dealer if they've done it before and therefore know... https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/contact-us.html
JHarp - contact Cyclops directly and tell them your build date, or ask your dealer if they've done it before and therefore know... https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/contact-us.html
jharpphoto
Member
My cyclops lights came today. Hoping I can install them without removing the Tupperware. Anyone done this install without removing the plastic?
It can be done, just depends on how skilled you are at contortion...
I'd at least wear a pair of latex gloves to reduce the risk of cutting your hand and having a strong work light helps to see what your action plan will be for removal/install helps.
jharpphoto
Member
IM-Freaking_possible to install these w/O removing headlight assembly. At least it is for me. Finally gave up trying to do it w/ our removing the assembly. I'll try again when I'm not so irritated.
TEDZEMLICKA
Member
I removed the dash panel to access mine
RadioFlyer
Right2Repair
After reading good things on a German forum regarding build quality and performance I bought two replacement LED headlight assemblies for our F800 bikes. Not only does it carry the E-mark but the Chinese manufacturer provided the E-mark certification paperwork when requested. It looks like a very well built item. Both beams together draw less current than one H7 halogen bulb.
When BMW introduced the F650/800GS bikes it wasn't long before owners started reporting that the reflectors for the main beam was turning black and the lens fogging on the inside. Essentially the heat from the stock H7 bulbs was evaporating the reflective material and it was being deposited on the lens. BMW never admitted that there was a problem but after at least 5 years BMW quietly switched manufacturers from CEV to Hella. Lots of owners switched to LED bulbs on the early bikes to get away from the heat of the H7s.
When BMW introduced the F650/800GS bikes it wasn't long before owners started reporting that the reflectors for the main beam was turning black and the lens fogging on the inside. Essentially the heat from the stock H7 bulbs was evaporating the reflective material and it was being deposited on the lens. BMW never admitted that there was a problem but after at least 5 years BMW quietly switched manufacturers from CEV to Hella. Lots of owners switched to LED bulbs on the early bikes to get away from the heat of the H7s.
