R1100s models, repair information and related

[fbt80]

[quote=omega man;1310132]you have come too far for that! The bike is almost new (again).
so true.

[fbt80]

Bike is officially now known as "Christine" Completed 210mile shot out to St. Augustine...followed by backup Truck and tow device with no problems. Return within 118 miles of home, died at a light, all my spare relays and even my jumper did not bring the fuel pump back online. Put it in the garage and will look at it some day when I'm bored and want to be ridiculed by an inanimate object.

[skibum69]

Sad, mine doesn't give me any grief at all.

[fbt80]

Unbelievable, Christine fixed herself over night and the pump works and bike starts and runs...did nothing other than parked it. Sooooo, heat is the trigger. I let it run in place as I did a GS-911 check and sure enough the bike after 8ish minutes on idle dies, jumper on the 12v side of the relay does nothing, no power. So heat affects component or components upstream of the relays. Park the bike overnight, bike starts next day. If the HES wasn't new I'd look there, but it is. On to the sidestand switch, I'll bridge it and try and make it fail again.

[fbt80]

..wire hunting. A confirmed connection break between fuse box and the left relay box (fuel relay)...boy this will be fun, I'm going to dismantle the entire box to get underneath it and check connections, then move up the wires to the fuse box, it's in there somewhere. BTW, if this is too painful to hear about all the time just post STOP and I'll just let you know when it's fixed. Figured what I'm doing and how I find the issue can provide insight to my brothers and sisters.

[mhines]

..BTW, if this is too painful to hear about all the time just post STOP and I'll just let you know when it's fixed. Figured what I'm doing and how I find the issue can provide insight to my brothers and sisters.

KEEP POSTING

[along with great FYI it makes sitting on long work Zooms with engineers debating demo environment modifications infinitely more interesting - not that I don't LOVE a great demo]

[kbasa]

Unbelievable, Christine fixed herself over night and the pump works and bike starts and runs...did nothing other than parked it. Sooooo, heat is the trigger. I let it run in place as I did a GS-911 check and sure enough the bike after 8ish minutes on idle dies, jumper on the 12v side of the relay does nothing, no power. So heat affects component or components upstream of the relays. Park the bike overnight, bike starts next day. If the HES wasn't new I'd look there, but it is. On to the sidestand switch, I'll bridge it and try and make it fail again.

Hall Effect Sensor still not good? Start it and hit it with a hair dryer and see if it dies, let it cool and repeat.

I wouldn't assume that it's good if you're still having heat related failure.

[fbt80]

Hall Effect Sensor still not good? Start it and hit it with a hair dryer and see if it dies, let it cool and repeat.

I wouldn't assume that it's good if you're still having heat related failure.

I have already replaced the HES. It had disintegrating wiring so replaced with one that has super silicon coated wires etc. But yeah, it kinda acts like a bad HES.
Now knowing multiple problems can mask as one , right now I know there is a break in the wiring between the Fuse box (left one) and the relay box (left one). So that's next...thank god it's only about a foot of wire to go thru but a lot of disassembly of the relay box to get at the connectors underneath.

As for heat cause, I was wrong, because it turned off the pump on a cold bike as well and all I did was turn it on. So the break has responded to heat and disconnects and responds to energizing by disconnecting as well.

[GSAddict]

If you can actually find & prove the broken/damaged wire it may be simpler and less effort to run a new wire in parallel to test and confirm that this is the issue.

I have seen this in the Marine industry where a section of wire has corroded in the jacket and not carried enough current for the load.

[GSAddict]

I have already replaced the HES. It had disintegrating wiring so replaced with one that has super silicon coated wires etc. But yeah, it kinda acts like a bad HES.
Now knowing multiple problems can mask as one , right now I know there is a break in the wiring between the Fuse box (left one) and the relay box (left one). So that's next...thank god it's only about a foot of wire to go thru but a lot of disassembly of the relay box to get at the connectors underneath.

As for heat cause, I was wrong, because it turned off the pump on a cold bike as well and all I did was turn it on. So the break has responded to heat and disconnects and responds to energizing by disconnecting as well.

Although rare, I have had the actual sensors themselves be heat sensitive and stop functioning only to resume when cooled.
It's happened to me on one of my rewired units that passed all the tests on the rotating tester including the heat test to 300f.
Issue only showed up a couple months later after quite a few miles.

[fbt80]

Although rare, I have had the actual sensors themselves be heat sensitive and stop functioning only to resume when cooled.
It's happened to me on one of my rewired units that passed all the tests on the rotating tester including the heat test to 300f.
Issue only showed up a couple months later after quite a few miles.

You know, now after all this, I'm not surprised at anything that happens on a BMW. With automobile clutch designs and car electronics they really are unique in the motorcycle world...kinda like serial killers in ours...

[kbasa]

I have already replaced the HES. It had disintegrating wiring so replaced with one that has super silicon coated wires etc. But yeah, it kinda acts like a bad HES.
Now knowing multiple problems can mask as one , right now I know there is a break in the wiring between the Fuse box (left one) and the relay box (left one). So that's next...thank god it's only about a foot of wire to go thru but a lot of disassembly of the relay box to get at the connectors underneath.

As for heat cause, I was wrong, because it turned off the pump on a cold bike as well and all I did was turn it on. So the break has responded to heat and disconnects and responds to energizing by disconnecting as well.

[fbt80]

If you can actually find & prove the broken/damaged wire it may be simpler and less effort to run a new wire in parallel to test and confirm that this is the issue.

I have seen this in the Marine industry where a section of wire has corroded in the jacket and not carried enough current for the load.

Super good advice, I planned to do just that, as you mentioned this is the technique I use in my boats as well. Even if the wire isn't broken it may not pass the full current due to resistance.

[fbt80]

Super good advice, I planned to do just that, as you mentioned this is the technique I use in my boats as well. Even if the wire isn't broken it may not pass the full current due to resistance.

So it looks like the red wire with yellow trace is the culprit between fuse and Motronic and fuel relay. Now I need to pull up the relay rack to get to the wiring underneath. Looks like both relay sockets can be pulled up as a unit to reveal the wiring underneath. Seems to have a catch on one side and so far while depressing it does not release. Anyone done this before?