• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

Mounting/Dismounting a loaded R1200 GS

I have never heard of a sidestand failure from direct load. Using it to pivot a motorcycle, yes. Having it sink into something and the foot fails, followed by the stand being bent inside the hole it made, yes. But not from simple directly loading it.

Early 310s excepted, of course.
 
I have never heard of a sidestand failure from direct load. Using it to pivot a motorcycle, yes. Having it sink into something and the foot fails, followed by the stand being bent inside the hole it made, yes. But not from simple directly loading it.

Yet the manual explains to not load that peg with full body weight as the stand isn't designed to support that type of weight. I'm not convinced I need to temp fate and have a stand fail due to the added load/weight placed upon it.

Anyone know if bmw has ever released data on their stands strength on various models?
 
I also find mounting from the right side the easiest way. Less pressure on the stand and seems a lot more stable.

I have to thank you for this. I picked up a 2005 F650GS a week or so ago -- a fly and ride from Missouri to NJ (via MN, MI, ON, etc). I have to use the pegs when fully loaded, and the bike leaned over a bit far on the side stand. So I tried the right side -- works perfectly.
 
One suggestion from mounting a tall dirt bike with the pegs. As you put your foot on the peg and start to lift lean your upper body over the bike. This keeps your weight centered over the bike making it better balanced and putting less strain on the side stand. Just watch someone mounting a horse.
 
Couple things. I carry a piece of plywood in the map pocket of my RT1200 top case so can grab it and throw it on the ground and kick it to where it needs to be for the side stand when on soft dirt.

I only put the bike in neutral at long stop lights when its safe and if the bike is on the center stand and I am working on it. It goes back in first as soon as I am done. The clutch works like a brake when the bike is in gear so:

1) turn off engine, leave in first, kick the side stand down, climb off bike
2) stand next to bike, push it up with hands on the bars and when ready, pull the clutch in and get the bike on the center stand

3) climb on bike from the left while on center stand by standing on the left foot peg with the left foot and step on bike
4) pull in clutch, switch on bike, rock back and then forward and get bike off the center stand - this can be done in reverse order of course
5) ride away immediately, no warm up

I did see a small person on a big GS do the start deal while sitting on the bike on the center stand and rock the bike back and pop the clutch and get the bike off the stand using the drive of the rear wheel and just ride right off!

Doing some flexibility exercises and swinging legs over is a use or lose it kind of deal, like always putting it on the center stand to retain the ability to do it :)
 
Couple things. I carry a piece of plywood in the map pocket of my RT1200 top case so can grab it and throw it on the ground and kick it to where it needs to be for the side stand when on soft dirt.

They do sell nice aluminum plates to expand the foot print of your sidestand...
 
Back
Top