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Hyper lights- wiring direct to the bike?

A

adecood

New member
I have a 2019 R1250RT. I also have the OEM top case too. I added a LED brake light strip in the lid of the top case. And everything is working fine.
My question is can I also tap into the wiring and add Hyper brake lights too?
The OEM brake lights amp draw is ????
The LED strip in the top case draws approx. 0.25 Amps
The Hyper brake lights draw approx. 0.25 Amps too.
After 2 different EZ-Can failures I do not have trust in their system.
 
At some point, tapping into the system, depending on what circuit, your bike will throw an error or diagnostic code or the bike will shut down the circuit all together if the draw is high enough. LED lights are very low draw but the diagnostic code is a possibility and, to me it looks sloppy riding around all the time with the warning light on. And, there is the possibility of hiding a real fault if the light is always on and not serviced.

I have a K1300S to which I added a programmable “AMP LINK”. It takes power from the alternator, through the battery and distributes it among 7 additional circuits which you can program for amp draw or even “OFF”. The system monitors the draw on each circuit and shuts down anything over the programmed draw and then notifies you on your phone.

I have it programmed to be asleep, no circuits active, if the bike is off. I have it wake-up about 15 seconds after the key is turned on so maximum amperage is available for engine start.

From there, I use 2 circuits that go through Marine quick-connectors into a tank bag to power phone and iPad charging and the GPS. I use one to power high-vis LED lighting in the front and rear of the bike, and one connected to a 12V dongle under the seat to run a 12v air compressor if required. I also use one to power the radar detector. That leaves me two more……..for who knows what. When I want to ride without the tank bag, I pop the two marine connectors and remove the tank bag in less than 30 seconds.

The system operates outside of the Can-Bus monitoring used on BMW motorcycles so, other than two wires to the battery terminals and some additional draw on the generator, you are not messing with BMW wiring loom. Also, as I said, the system monitors itself for faults. You will have to add a grounding bus to the bike, which is very easy, and solder the connections you run to your additional electrical equipment. I had little electrical experience and no soldering skills and did the whole thing in about a day and a half and that was mostly because I had to strip the bike of fairings and then reattach them. AND…..I had to read everything three or four times and call the AMp-Link folks a few times to get it all straight in my head.

Highly recommended. Three years so far, rain and shine, no faults, no problems whatsoever.. Hope this helps.
 
Hyper lights

K1300Ser said:
At some point, tapping into the system, depending on what circuit, your bike will throw an error or diagnostic code or the bike will shut down the circuit all together if the draw is high enough. LED lights are very low draw but the diagnostic code is a possibility and, to me it looks sloppy riding around all the time with the warning light on. And, there is the possibility of hiding a real fault if the light is always on and not serviced.

I have a K1300S to which I added a programmable “AMP LINK”. It takes power from the alternator, through the battery and distributes it among 7 additional circuits which you can program for amp draw or even “OFF”. The system monitors the draw on each circuit and shuts down anything over the programmed draw and then notifies you on your phone.

I have it programmed to be asleep, no circuits active, if the bike is off. I have it wake-up about 15 seconds after the key is turned on so maximum amperage is available for engine start.

From there, I use 2 circuits that go through Marine quick-connectors into a tank bag to power phone and iPad charging and the GPS. I use one to power high-vis LED lighting in the front and rear of the bike, and one connected to a 12V dongle under the seat to run a 12v air compressor if required. I also use one to power the radar detector. That leaves me two more……..for who knows what. When I want to ride without the tank bag, I pop the two marine connectors and remove the tank bag in less than 30 seconds.

The system operates outside of the Can-Bus monitoring used on BMW motorcycles so, other than two wires to the battery terminals and some additional draw on the generator, you are not messing with BMW wiring loom. Also, as I said, the system monitors itself for faults. You will have to add a grounding bus to the bike, which is very easy, and solder the connections you run to your additional electrical equipment. I had little electrical experience and no soldering skills and did the whole thing in about a day and a half and that was mostly because I had to strip the bike of fairings and then reattach them. AND…..I had to read everything three or four times and call the AMp-Link folks a few times to get it all straight in my head.

Highly recommended. Three years so far, rain and shine, no faults, no problems whatsoever.. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


Thank you very much for your response. Very nice description on how you set it up. I will look into the AMP-Link system
 
hyper light direct to bike

Can you send me the link to there web page. when I googled it I don't think I found the company your talking about.
 
Hyper lights connected directly to the bike

Thanks for attaching the link to there web site. When I tried to look for it I keep getting weird web links
 
Hyper lights-wiring directly to the bike

I would like to thank everyone who answered my request on hooking up my Hyper brake lights to the bike.
As it turns out I did go with the AMP LINK as suggested. It’s a little bit pricy but not much more than the EZ-Can unit. And I watched a few video’s on how to install the unit to get a better feel for how to hook everything up. And I read the instructions a few time too. I like to make sure that I understand everything before I actually do the work. I am very impressed with how small it is and that it is water proof too. And the kit comes with all the parts you need to install whatever accessories you want up to 6 items. The EZ-Can only has 4 accessories that you can add, 2 high amp and 2 low amps. Whereas with the Amp Link you can use all 6 outputs for whatever you want. The Amp Link is basically a circuit breaker box separate from the bikes wiring. And the EZ-Can is connected to the Can Bus wiring harness.
Finding a place to install it on the bike was a little bit of a challenge. BMW used up all for the space under the front a rear seats on the RT. I contemplated putting it behind the side panel where you access the rear master cylinder on the RH side. But I ended up mounting it under the rear tail rack where the top box mounts. There’s more room in that area to work with along with the other electronics for the bike too. There are a couple tabs with a whole in it and it is welded to the frame, probably for some OEM module that isn’t used on my bike so I used those 2 tabs to mount the AMP Link unit there.
I typically plan things out before I do the work, so I made a sketch on how I was going wire the lights up and the other accessories. So I could visualize how I was going to actually set it up before I started to work on the bike. See the attached sketch. I used the Aux plug wire on LH side under the grab handle for my trigger switch wire, so that the accessories would turn on when I turned on the bike and not be powered up all the time. With the AMP Link you can change the delay on when the accessories turns on and off. So everything doesn’t turn on when you start the bike. That can be good if your battery is running low.
Everything is working as planned. And I thought I would let you know how things worked out for me. And thank you for your help.
Hyper lite-AmpLink sketch 20220408.jpeg.jpg
 
Happy the Amp-Link worked out for you. For me, the amp-link has been a dependable and high tech solution to add on electrical circuits for BMW’s and it is an “elegant” solution too as it eliminates the typical birds nest of wiring to the battery terminals. The small battery box in the K1300S would not allow it anyway.

Also, as I am sure you know, the folks at Rowe electronics were kind and patient and helped me to conceptualize the project. Once I had my wiring diagram down, the actual installation went relatively quickly and without a hitch.

I am careful about recommending products but I have no hesitation recommending the Amp_link.
 
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