How in the world does one shifts gears with the Assist gadget?

I got a '21 1250RT



....for the life of me, I dont understand the manual on pp 184-185 on the whatever the 'threshold rpm' is for the next gear.



The way I have been UPshifting is by closing the throttle slowly and lifting the shifter slowly...but quite often the bike jumps as if done it on the wrong rpm.



I typically shift to 2nd gear at 3k rpm, shift to 3rd at between 3000 and 3500 (when the rpm is between these two markers)...4th, 5th and 6th seem to go a lot easier.

I must tell ya, I miss the DCT on my last Wing. That tranny was like butter.



Do you know how to shift this bike? smoothly? not using the clutch?

When upshifting, keep the throttle open and be “assertive” with the shift pedal; firm and relatively quick push to shift works best for me.

On downshift, close the throttle then the same relatively quick and firm push down.

On my ’21 GS the shifts are a little clunky from 1-2 and 2-1, but otherwise really good.


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KPR9T said:

When upshifting, keep the throttle open and be “assertive” with the shift pedal; firm and relatively quick push to shift works best for me.

On downshift, close the throttle then the same relatively quick and firm push down.

On my ’21 GS the shifts are a little clunky from 1-2 and 2-1, but otherwise really good.


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Click to expand...

Oh…and no use of the clutch.


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Upshifting during acceleration, you need to shift up (firmly) while engine RPMs are climbing. If the engine speed plateaus then you will get rough shifting. If starting out during easy acceleration, you need to open up the throttle (increase) while shifting. This can be accomplished by rolling on the throttle a split second before the shift lever gets lifted - almost simultaneously, then back to easy acceleration (or rolling the throttle closed.) It may sound complicated, but it will just take some practice. Just remember to twist the throttle open, however slight, at the same time as the shift. Think of it as the throttle becoming the clutch; you would pull the the cluth lever to shift. Well.....use the throttle the same way - just twist it and shift.

As far as downshifting and the term threshold for the gears, just completely close the throttle to the stop and downshift (firmly) then open throttle as needed. I will add that it sounds pretty cool hearing it gear down like that. I only use the clutch when starting and stopping, with an occasional use of the clutch when moving slow or the engine speed peaks. You can downshift all the way to first while still moving, but I have dropped down into first while moving too fast for that gear and the SAP popped the transmission into neutral for me. I guess I was way above that threshold point for that particular gear.

I'm getting used to the gear shift assist myself. I appreciate everyone's comments so far.

I’ve never used one. All the posts about the Shift Assist made me think it was like an outboard motor’s ability to go from forward to reverse. Look like the same kinda deal in that it’s a “spark (injection)” interruption method of “releasing torque pressure between the engine and transmission.

http://www.gelandestrasse.co.uk/2014/11/gear-shift-assist-pro-mythbusters.html

On large standard transmission trucks, the clutch is for starting and stopping only- for the most part. The shifts are accomplished by the operators timing of speed and engine revolutions.

OM

FWIW, I've got almost 40K miles on a 2015 RT with Shift Assistant Pro. My bike is not smooth going up from 1 to 2, and 2 to 3 using the technique of opening the throttle some. 3 to 4, 4 to 5 and 5 to 6 are great. Closed throttle on downshift is the way to go. My RT is always smooth with those.

Fwiw

I have a 2017 R1200RT and a 2019 R1250RT, and I have noticed that clutchless shifting on the 1200 is rough 1-2-3, and pretty smooth in the higher gears. On the 1250, I think that BMW made some significant improvements because the shifting is smoother without the clutch than I can often execute manually.

I am not aware of any design changes in the transmission between 2017 and 2019, so I don’t know what might be the source of the difference. Maybe a software update? Both bikes have recent calibration procedures. Perhaps the extra torque of the 1250 changes the way the system works.

Upshifting with the throttle open invariably causes the bucking...which I suspect must be detrimental over time for the driveshaft and the tranny.

Exactly, if its possible to ascertain, at what RPM does one upshifts from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 with the throttle opened?

When I close the throttle around 3k rpm I can shift into second from first smoothly and consistently so. Upshifting from 2 to3 I have to be at over 3k and under 3500 in order to shift somewhat smoothly 'most of the time'. It seems to me like the torque must be pulling during that sequence also to give the engine time to decompress into the third gear smoothly.

Leaving the throttle opened is a nightmare bucking...unless I can find that magic RPM at which this system is supposed to work at.

The quick shifter does the work for you. By letting off the throttle you're confusing it. Either let it do the work (you just work the shifter, but hold the throttle constant for upshifts) or do it yourself with the throttle, clutch, and shifter. For downshifts you need to close the throttle briefly. If you try to help the quick shifter, you're going to get lousy results. Try it... it works!

Wethead said:

Upshifting with the throttle open invariably causes the bucking...which I suspect must be detrimental over time for the driveshaft and the tranny.

Exactly, if its possible to ascertain, at what RPM does one upshifts from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 with the throttle opened?

When I close the throttle around 3k rpm I can shift into second from first smoothly and consistently so. Upshifting from 2 to3 I have to be at over 3k and under 3500 in order to shift somewhat smoothly 'most of the time'. It seems to me like the torque must be pulling during that sequence also to give the engine time to decompress into the third gear smoothly.

Leaving the throttle opened is a nightmare bucking...unless I can find that magic RPM at which this system is supposed to work at.

Click to expand...

I've been using shift assist for 4 years on my R1200GSA. I have not used it on my new to me R1250GSA, yet. In my experience you will continue to be frustrated in trying to get the bike to shift smoothly from first to second and second to third. It performs best under hard acceleration and at higher RPM. Take the bike to 8,000 RPM in fourth gear (on a closed course, of course), keep the throttle held wide open and shift to fifth gear. You'll be amazed at how well it works and you'll feel like a Formula One driver at Monza. Chasing a magic RPM to shift at is something new to me and I think a Quixotic endeavor. I do not think the shift assist is intended to be used for all day, every day riding, and if it is intended for that role it is not ready for prime time... but it sure is fun when you are pushing the bike a bit on one of those closed courses.

I've got shift assist on my RT and GS. I think it's just clunky as hell and has little value. By the time you figure out the revs to use it, accelerating and decelerating it's just easier to use the clutch. It's so far away from DCT it makes no sense which is fine, I don't mind using the clutch

I believe the 2018 models were the first where BMW added the "Judder-damper" to the shift assist mechanism. It may have been another year, but this smoothed out the use of shift-assist from 1st to 2nd gear. Bikes prior to that will require clutching from 1st to 2nd. Once in 2nd my '16 RT shifts smoothly using the feature as long as I'm accelerating during upshift, throttle closed during downshift, as described above. The upshifts are almost imperceptible, and the downshifts do indeed sound cool. Except when I forget and try to use it between 1st and 2nd, up or down. The bike will let me know that I goofed it up, again.

I have 2014 RT. The first couple of gears are rough. So I always use the clutch after that it its great. I don't worry about the RPMs. It is a feel factor. You do need the throttle open. Just practice and don't over think. Maybe have the dealer check it out. It may need a software update.

Wethead said:

When I close the throttle around 3k rpm I can shift into second from first smoothly and consistently so..

Click to expand...

When you close the throttle on a upshift Shift Assist does not help the shift.
Any bike can be shifted without the clutch if you do it right.

Stebe said:

I believe the 2018 models were the first where BMW added the "Judder-damper" ...

Click to expand...

2017

Wethead said:

I typically shift to 2nd gear at 3k rpm, shift to 3rd at between 3000 and 3500 (when the rpm is between these two markers)...4th, 5th and 6th seem to go a lot easier.

Click to expand...

The design of the Assist feature assumes you'll be accelerating with a lot more gusto... wind it out much higher and then bang the next gear with no clutch... like road racers do it.

Personally, this is not for me, I like using the clutch for a much smoother ride.

I must tell ya, I miss the DCT on my last Wing. That tranny was like butter.

Click to expand...

I would really like to try a DCT Wing... that seems like the ultimate. I tried DCT on a Honda VFR1200X and it was never quite smooth, I believe the Wing would be much smoother because its entire powertrain is aligned.

Here is how you do it....

Turn up your sound!

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Another good example....

Keep your sound on!

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That. Was. Awesome!!