Grub screw size?

Obscure question for the hive mind - 1150GS 2002 - I have an intermittent short that I have traced to the ignition switch leads. After 20 years of flexing it seems to be almost done. I need to get the switch out and have found the grub screw on the RH side of the ignition housing. After digging out the paint covering it, I can’t get a good feel with any metric hex wrench - does anyone know what size wrench this tiny screw takes?
Much obliged, happy new year and all that

This video may help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kuEXlqYI-A

walshj1024 said:

This video may help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kuEXlqYI-A

Click to expand...

So, NOT a hex? Can anyone else confirm this? I’ll fish in there with a small screwdriver, I’ll also try a small torx if all else fails. Very small screw to hold this vital part in…

I'm not sure I know specifically the part/issue, but is it #7 in this diagram?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...0_GS_00_0415,0495_&diagId=51_3862#61322306103

Grub screw vs Set screw

I had to clarify for myself what a "Grub Screw" was. All the things I have worked on, a "grub screw" was always described as a "set screw".

Set screw-



Grub screw-



As for the OP's predicament, on a bike of this age, it could have been changed. Some penetrating oil and then "maximum effort" (DP) on the screw is important on a delicate part.
If the fit is "not quite right", the fit can be helped using some valve grinding compound on/in the hole. It seems that most don't have valve grinding compound around any more (Clover) so it can be made by scraping off some of the abrasive from sandpaper and mixing with dielectric grease- to an appropriate consistency.
A tighten/loosen work it a bit may help as well.
OM

I did this repair/replacement about 8 years ago, on my 2000 R1100 RS. I do recall a very helpful video, that explained exactly how to extract this fastener. IIRC, it came out fairly easy, once the lock tight was completely gone.

treeguy said:

So, NOT a hex? Can anyone else confirm this? I’ll fish in there with a small screwdriver, I’ll also try a small torx if all else fails. Very small screw to hold this vital part in…

Click to expand...

treeguy said:

Obscure question for the hive mind - 1150GS 2002 - I have an intermittent short that I have traced to the ignition switch leads. After 20 years of flexing it seems to be almost done. I need to get the switch out and have found the grub screw on the RH side of the ignition housing. After digging out the paint covering it, I can’t get a good feel with any metric hex wrench - does anyone know what size wrench this tiny screw takes?
Much obliged, happy new year and all that

Click to expand...

Slot screw, use a jewelers screwdriver.

Success!

Ok, so it IS a regular slot and a jewelers screwdriver was necessary- thankfully my exploring with various tools didn’t bungee things up, came out fairly easy. Also fairly easy to see where it was failing once I got all the tape off. Looks like this failure has happened before and was repaired without giving the wire enough slack. Should be an easy fix from here, right? I did mark the location of the switch on the upper tree housing, so alignment should be easy.
One issue is that contrary to Chilton’s guidelines, my ‘02 does not have the fuel line disconnects , that will be my next order as I parked the girl with a full tank and though I didnt lose much, the quick disconnects are definitely the way to go! Tank off - time for adding some aux lights methinks?

I rewire them completely.
Replace the wires completely with type TEW #16 (softer insulation, lighter strands and more flexible)
When installing leave the harness loose, do not lash tight.

You can also disassemble the switch,clean off the old hardened grease and polish the contacts.
Reassemble with white lithium.

Treeguy,

That looks very much like the one I replaced on my RS a few years ago.

One note of caution on reassembly. When you are wrapping and zip tying the harness, allow a little more slack than the factory did originally. It will help to keep the harness from”stretching” when the bars are turned. I have a hunch that the original tightness of the harness, may be a factor, which causes the break.

GSAddict said:

I rewire them completely.
Replace the wires completely with type TEW #16 (softer insulation, lighter strands and more flexible)
When installing leave the harness loose, do not lash tight.

You can also disassemble the switch,clean off the old hardened grease and polish the contacts.
Reassemble with white lithium.

Click to expand...

thanks for the wiring tip - I'm not too wiring literate.
Is there a pdf or exploded view of the inside of the switch? I cant seem to locate one, and I THINK I got it back together correctly, but id like to verify before turning the key...

I have never seen one but you can ring out with this schematic.