So the new tires arrived today as did the last of the tools to DIY on the R1100S. I will be replacing the Michelin road pilot 4 2ct as the front tire wear bars are close. The DOT manufacturing date on the old tires on the bike I bought a few years ago say they are 7 and 8 years old. The guy I bought it from had it garaged as do I. I just wonder if the manufacturer hype re 5 years is valid? Can tires last longer if out of solar degradation, or do the compounds really deteriorate even in a controlled warehoused environment? When I take the bike out and ride, I enjoy my twisty 2 lane roads at old guy speeds,(no knee drags). Messed up fire smoke here for the last few years so not a lot of miles done. Just wondering if the rubber goes bad regardless.
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tire age reality vs manufacturer hype
- Thread starter mntngrown
- Start date
wbrownell9
New member
Ozone and oxygen in the air cause the rubber to break down, sunlight doesn't help. I suppose if you stored them in argon or some other non-reactive gas that would stop the oxidation, but plasticizers would still outgas and they would continue to cure albeit extremely slowly. So they'd eventually crack and harden no matter what. Check out the tires on an airplane on static display, even the ones indoors are hard as rocks and you know they weren't made that way.
truckerdave
Member
Over 10 might be questionable but it depends. In 1981 i bought a very low mileage stolen in the 1960's, stripped, and stored away Duo Glide Harley(yes a barn find). It had the original rear tire from 1964 still on it. It still looked good and i ran it until it wore out after i got the bike put back together. If the tire is showing cracks or dry rot though, it's time for it to go.
88bmwjeff
SF Bay Area
I'm in a somewhat similar boat. As life sometimes does, it threw me a curve ball and my bike sat parked for 5-6 years in the garage. I had the tires replaced right before the bike was parked. So now they are about 7ish years old. From what I read, tires can last 6-7 years if properly maintained in environmentally controlled storage.
Here's a side story. I had a '96 BMW 328i convertible as a weekend car before I got back in to riding. I was putting very few miles on the car a year. After about 7-8 years, the tires still looked good (had no side wall cracking and plenty of tread). First incident. I got caught in a sudden rain storm (heavy down pour), when I made a typical left turn, I lost control and the rear fishtailed for a short bit. I was headed toward a light pole when I regained control. Scared the crap out me. A few weeks later, I was making a right turn on wet (not raining) roads. The road had a slight slope, but really not steep. When I gave the car gas, the rear tires spun. I the 7-8 years I had the car, I was never able spin the rear tires, and yes I tried (the car had an automatic, so I couldn't just pop the clutch). The tire compound had gotten old, hard, and had less grip even though the tires looked like they were in good shape. I replaced the tires ASAP, and did not ride on wet roads until then.
Fast forward to today. My bikes tires looked new and had less than 100 miles on them when the bike came out of storage. The tires still look great. No side wall cracks, no discoloring that typically comes from oxidation, etc. Yes, I rode on these tires, but with one very important understanding. NO RIDING IN THE RAIN AND BE VERY CAREFUL ON WET ROADS. Your tires, while probably look good and would handle OK in warm weather conditions, but would probably not be OK to ride in the rain or on wet roads. If it were me, I'd put new tires on and have that peace of mind to not worry about wet road conditions. That's my two-cents. And, I have new tires on order for my bike.
Here's a side story. I had a '96 BMW 328i convertible as a weekend car before I got back in to riding. I was putting very few miles on the car a year. After about 7-8 years, the tires still looked good (had no side wall cracking and plenty of tread). First incident. I got caught in a sudden rain storm (heavy down pour), when I made a typical left turn, I lost control and the rear fishtailed for a short bit. I was headed toward a light pole when I regained control. Scared the crap out me. A few weeks later, I was making a right turn on wet (not raining) roads. The road had a slight slope, but really not steep. When I gave the car gas, the rear tires spun. I the 7-8 years I had the car, I was never able spin the rear tires, and yes I tried (the car had an automatic, so I couldn't just pop the clutch). The tire compound had gotten old, hard, and had less grip even though the tires looked like they were in good shape. I replaced the tires ASAP, and did not ride on wet roads until then.
Fast forward to today. My bikes tires looked new and had less than 100 miles on them when the bike came out of storage. The tires still look great. No side wall cracks, no discoloring that typically comes from oxidation, etc. Yes, I rode on these tires, but with one very important understanding. NO RIDING IN THE RAIN AND BE VERY CAREFUL ON WET ROADS. Your tires, while probably look good and would handle OK in warm weather conditions, but would probably not be OK to ride in the rain or on wet roads. If it were me, I'd put new tires on and have that peace of mind to not worry about wet road conditions. That's my two-cents. And, I have new tires on order for my bike.
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Thanks
Just spent my afternoon putting my winter tires and wheels on the car. Blizzaks. I still am getting some 60F's this week after the west coast storm. Gonna ride the 7 and 8 year old motorcycle tires this week before the replacement. Maybe replace just the front(most wear) then later the rear, Scary stories re crashing on slippery new tire rubber mold release and other stuff. Keerapp I rode my 75/6 from Cali to Canada and back and commuted years thereafter W/O worry about tires. Guess I won't worry now. thanks for replies
Just spent my afternoon putting my winter tires and wheels on the car. Blizzaks. I still am getting some 60F's this week after the west coast storm. Gonna ride the 7 and 8 year old motorcycle tires this week before the replacement. Maybe replace just the front(most wear) then later the rear, Scary stories re crashing on slippery new tire rubber mold release and other stuff. Keerapp I rode my 75/6 from Cali to Canada and back and commuted years thereafter W/O worry about tires. Guess I won't worry now. thanks for replies
Received a tire from Dunlop. Date code 2013, call Dunlop rep said it's OK to use it's warranted. Go figure. I bet you it I told them I had it sitting around I would of got a different answer. My guess is the next year or so you will be seeing a lot of vehicles out the with not so good tires on them with the tire shortage going on.
pglaves
#13338
Document that conversation. If the tire fails you will have a record of their negligence.
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
Quiz Question: "What is the cheapest thing on a BMW motorcycle?"
10 Points for the correct answer.
The owner
saddleman
Enjoy The Ride
This past June I put my last set of new tires on my K1200LT that I had on the shelf. They were 6 years old. I rode about 6000 miles going out west and back and over 2000 miles of rain the first week of July in the mountains in Colorado, New Mexico & Arizona. I run the Bridgestone BT020 on the rear and the Metzler ME880 on the front. The ME880 is no longer available. I normally get around 15,000 to 18,000 miles out of this combination of tires. I couldn't tell any difference with these tires or tires I have installed that were less than a year old. I have about 10,000 miles on them now and it looks like I'll get at least 15,000 miles on them before they get near the wear bars.
There are things to go cheap on. For instance, after putting on my crash bars, I thought I could use some foot pegs on them. $300 for the Ilium ones, that do look very nice, however J&P had a set for under $30, so I went with them.
Tires, on the other hand, is not where I'm looking for cheap. For tires, I'm looking for good, better, or preferably best. Just one man's opinion. I never go cheap on tires.
Tires, on the other hand, is not where I'm looking for cheap. For tires, I'm looking for good, better, or preferably best. Just one man's opinion. I never go cheap on tires.
yes
Not going cheap. I have the new set in the garage which will go on as my first DIY change soon, I just raised the question to ask if tire rubber really goes from great grip to rocks sliding on polished steel just because they are over 5 years old, even though garaged. Rode the old ones, (7 and 8 yrs), today at conservative levels and all was well. It was more a question of do tires inevitably become unsafe after 5 years. For example up here in the Sierra Nevada range I run my old M/S tires and stock wheels in summer even though the dealers say I am close to needing new but I just changed to my second season on my Bridgestone Blizzak and wheels from tire rack for the upcoming hopefully big snow season. I am not the least bit worried about taking a dry corner with my turbo WRX a little hot on old tires. But that is 4 wheels. Thanks for everyone's input
Not going cheap. I have the new set in the garage which will go on as my first DIY change soon, I just raised the question to ask if tire rubber really goes from great grip to rocks sliding on polished steel just because they are over 5 years old, even though garaged. Rode the old ones, (7 and 8 yrs), today at conservative levels and all was well. It was more a question of do tires inevitably become unsafe after 5 years. For example up here in the Sierra Nevada range I run my old M/S tires and stock wheels in summer even though the dealers say I am close to needing new but I just changed to my second season on my Bridgestone Blizzak and wheels from tire rack for the upcoming hopefully big snow season. I am not the least bit worried about taking a dry corner with my turbo WRX a little hot on old tires. But that is 4 wheels. Thanks for everyone's input
I can only recount my personal experience. Bought two tires which were "R" compound street tires. Installed by the shop where I bought them. Went for a very slow ride to break them in. 20 km into that ride I turned into a corner and was immediately on my ass. Checked the date code later - the tires were 5 years old. Had all the traction of a bowling ball. YMMV
tanker4me
New member
3 used bikes with great looking tires later, I'm no longer on the if a tire looks good it's OK side of the discussion.
About 10 years ago a friend gave me a '63 Bultaco Mercurio with undated tires that look good and judging from the "Sock It To Me" and flower power stickers on the bike were probably mounted sometime in 1968. The bike is ridden briefly once or twice a year, and never above 25mph so as long as they hold air a tire change is on standby.
In 2015 I purchased a 2008 Yamaha WR250R that only had 350 miles on the odometer and fresh looking 7 year old Trail Wing tires.
The bike was intended to use off pavement.
While I researched which tires to mount I would ride it around town, occasionally taking it onto the freeway.
It was when traveling at 65mph + in freeway traffic that the thought of being on old rubber entered my mind.
The new Pirelli front, and Dunlop rear DOT knobbies work better than expected.
Last December I bought a '83 R80ST that had less than 300 miles on it 6 years after restoration. (the bike was stored in a controlled environment)
The tires were 7 years old, looked new but wanted to replace them. They were Avon Roadriders.
I sought advice from people that I thought would know better than I.
The advice was to try 2-3 pounds lower pressure and they should be okay.
The short trip home from the shop included a street with about a 3% incline. There wasn't any traffic on it so while traveling in a straight line at 35mph I decided to test the rear tire.
It locked up quickly when I applied the brake. The brake was in proper adjustment.
New tires were ordered lickety split.
I'm no longer on the if a tire looks good it's OK side of the discussion.
Bill
About 10 years ago a friend gave me a '63 Bultaco Mercurio with undated tires that look good and judging from the "Sock It To Me" and flower power stickers on the bike were probably mounted sometime in 1968. The bike is ridden briefly once or twice a year, and never above 25mph so as long as they hold air a tire change is on standby.
In 2015 I purchased a 2008 Yamaha WR250R that only had 350 miles on the odometer and fresh looking 7 year old Trail Wing tires.
The bike was intended to use off pavement.
While I researched which tires to mount I would ride it around town, occasionally taking it onto the freeway.
It was when traveling at 65mph + in freeway traffic that the thought of being on old rubber entered my mind.
The new Pirelli front, and Dunlop rear DOT knobbies work better than expected.
Last December I bought a '83 R80ST that had less than 300 miles on it 6 years after restoration. (the bike was stored in a controlled environment)
The tires were 7 years old, looked new but wanted to replace them. They were Avon Roadriders.
I sought advice from people that I thought would know better than I.
The advice was to try 2-3 pounds lower pressure and they should be okay.
The short trip home from the shop included a street with about a 3% incline. There wasn't any traffic on it so while traveling in a straight line at 35mph I decided to test the rear tire.
It locked up quickly when I applied the brake. The brake was in proper adjustment.
New tires were ordered lickety split.
I'm no longer on the if a tire looks good it's OK side of the discussion.
Bill
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one more opinion video
I am changing mine since I bought the new ones. But I found this video informative.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwbLt8vZH5w
I am changing mine since I bought the new ones. But I found this video informative.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwbLt8vZH5w
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
Great video that seemed to cover the subject well while literally using a soap box. He answered some of your original questions that had me wondering also. Thanks for sharing.
