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Bouncing Speedometer Needle

Darryl Cainey

Darryl Cainey

Sir Darby
I replaced me speedometer cable on my 1993 R100GS as it had a slice on it from rubbing against the gas tank edge.

The action of the speedometer was normal with the old cable but when I but the new cable on the needle bounces from
5 to 35 mph then stops bouncing the higher the speed.

The speedometer was rebuilt & calibrated about 30,000 miles ago & now has 87,500 miles.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
Darryl Cainey said:
I replaced me speedometer cable on my 1993 R100GS as it had a slice on it from rubbing against the gas tank edge.

The action of the speedometer was normal with the old cable but when I but the new cable on the needle bounces from
5 to 35 mph ...........

Any help would be appreciated!
Click to expand...

Try putting the old cable back on to see if the problem goes away.
 
m_stock10506 said:
Try putting the old cable back on to see if the problem goes away.
Click to expand...

I was hope I wouldn't have to do that as whoever designed the GS must have been a masochist as to get at the top threaded cable end you have to take the left fairing panel, windshield, signal light & stem off, a 3 hour job!
 
Undo the cable at the bottom and slip out a couple feet of the inner cable; check it for lube. I believe the speedo cable is the only BMW cable that is ok with a bit of lube. I usually use a light film of very light grease like white lithium, and stay away from the top foot or so of cable. Reinsert the cable, which can take a bit of fiddling to engage at the speedo, reattach the lower end to the transmission, and give it a try. It’s also a good opportunity to verify that the hollow retaining bolt isn’t plugged.

Best,
DeVern
 
GTRider said:
Undo the cable at the bottom and slip out a couple feet of the inner cable; check it for lube. I believe the speedo cable is the only BMW cable that is ok with a bit of lube. I usually use a light film of very light grease like white lithium, and stay away from the top foot or so of cable. Reinsert the cable, which can take a bit of fiddling to engage at the speedo, reattach the lower end to the transmission, and give it a try. It’s also a good opportunity to verify that the hollow retaining bolt isn’t plugged.

Best,
DeVern
Click to expand...

Now that's a good idea! Thanks GTRider!
 
GTRider said:
Undo the cable at the bottom and slip out a couple feet of the inner cable; check it for lube. I believe the speedo cable is the only BMW cable that is ok with a bit of lube. I usually use a light film of very light grease like white lithium, and stay away from the top foot or so of cable. Reinsert the cable, which can take a bit of fiddling to engage at the speedo, reattach the lower end to the transmission, and give it a try. It’s also a good opportunity to verify that the hollow retaining bolt isn’t plugged.

Best,
DeVern
Click to expand...

I thought I would try to remove the inner cable from the old speedo cable first then try the new one.

The inner cable does not come out by hand, should I try to force it out?
 
No, don’t force anything. The cable on my ‘93GS would come out through the bottom when both ends were disconnected, so I thought yours would as well. If you still have the old cable you can check that—I pulled mine and lubed as described earlier.

Best,
DeVern
 
GTRider said:
No, don’t force anything. The cable on my ‘93GS would come out through the bottom when both ends were disconnected, so I thought yours would as well. If you still have the old cable you can check that—I pulled mine and lubed as described earlier.

Best,
DeVern
Click to expand...

I took the old cable and tried to pull out the inner cable while it was on the workbench and it would not come out by hand.
It's the original BMW cable, the new one I bought is from Motobins.

I'm not going to force it so I'm back to square 1!
 
Darryl Cainey said:
I took the old cable and tried to pull out the inner cable while it was on the workbench and it would not come out by hand.
It's the original BMW cable, the new one I bought is from Motobins.

I'm not going to force it so I'm back to square 1!
Click to expand...

Apply a few drops of oil at the top end of the cable. Allow time for it to run down. Use a heavy bodied oil like you use in the engine and not the light sewing machine oil type stuff.
 
PGlaves said:
Apply a few drops of oil at the top end of the cable. Allow time for it to run down. Use a heavy bodied oil like you use in the engine and not the light sewing machine oil type stuff.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul but it's a 3 hour fight just to get at the top of the cable on a R100GS, there has to be a better way I hope!
 
Darryl Cainey said:
Thanks Paul but it's a 3 hour fight just to get at the top of the cable on a R100GS, there has to be a better way I hope!
Click to expand...

The dilemma is that the inner cable is like a coiled spring and if it is sticking at all in the outer sheath it kind of coils and then unwinds and coils and unwinds, just a little bit causing the needle to shake. The only cure is to lubricate the cable so it doesn't stick.

If you can take the bottom end loose and then snake it around and elevate it as much as possible you can add oil here. The windings of the inner cable tend to pull the lubricant upward so this just might work.
 
I have been using this tool for years to lubricate cables.

073213f866e4695e5381635c4ece2f6ad498892f3b238bf6f181e0136911ddcb


From vehicle parking brake cables to motorcycle cables to lawn equipment cables it has worked well.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182

yeah, I lube/clean/flush out those cables BMW doesn't want you to lube as well.

OM
 
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