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Thread: 06 rt1200

  1. #1

    Post 06 rt1200

    Having an issue with my 06 RT that I need an expert opinion(s) on. Noticed throughout the summer, and has gotten progressively worse as the season has gone on, when starting out from a dead stop the motor almost dies. I was told not to rev over 2000 rpm when letting the clutch out from a dead stop in 1st gear as this would wear out the clutch. The motor pulls down so hard it almost stops. Makes the valves rattle and is a bit concerning. One person tells me itís not the clutch. I donít know what to think of it. All the fluid levels are in order from the motor to the final drive. Has anyone experienced this before or had similar issues. Please respond.

  2. #2
    #13338 PGlaves's Avatar
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    I think the 2,000 rpm advice is not helpful. It sounds like you are lugging the engine on rollout.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  3. #3
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum!
    I would find someone that rides a similar bike and watch/listen to the way they start off.
    Good luck.
    Gary
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  4. #4
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    I have an 06 RT and I think I am probably at 2500-3000 rpm when pulling away from stop. Not really certain because Iím not usually looking at the tach then but Iím pretty sure Iím over 2000.

    I have experienced those same symptoms on two occasions. In both cases it started shortly before it was time for an oil change and valve adjustment. After adjusting the valves (minor adjustments that I did not think would make much difference) the problems disappeared.

  5. #5
    DennyPink
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    Bogusm - I have a 2007 RT and first gear is a tall one. 2,000 RPM is pretty slow for the gearing, and taking off at that RPM can stall our bikes. Take it up to 2,500 RPM on each launch and see if things improve.
    DP

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by DennyPink View Post
    Bogusm - I have a 2007 RT and first gear is a tall one. 2,000 RPM is pretty slow for the gearing, and taking off at that RPM can stall our bikes. Take it up to 2,500 RPM on each launch and see if things improve.
    DP
    ^^^^What he saidÖthatís what my Ď06 prefersÖ


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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I think the 2,000 rpm advice is not helpful. It sounds like you are lugging the engine on rollout.
    Kind of what i was thinking. It was a BMW mechanic who told me to not rev over 2000 rpm from stop though.
    Thanks for the advise.

  8. #8
    #13338 PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogusm View Post
    Kind of what i was thinking. It was a BMW mechanic who told me to not rev over 2000 rpm from stop though.
    Thanks for the advise.
    I think most riders couldn't even tell you what rpm they are at as they release the clutch on rollout. I can't. That part of my ride is by sound and feel. I do know that I rev my little 310 more than I did my R1150R or my K75s. And a bit more uphill from a stop and less downhill or level from a stop. Sound and feel!

    With my 310 I have killed the engine a time or two which never happened with my K75s. The K75 engine reaches 90% of peak torque at only 2,000 rpm but that is a very special engine.

    You have a dilemma. Over slipping a clutch can shorten clutch life. But, lugging the engine shortens engine life. Clutches are easier to replace than main bearings. Go for a few more rpm on roll-out.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  9. #9
    Registered User lkraus's Avatar
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    The mechanics concern is clutch damage/wear from slipping at high revs. A dry clutch will not take the abuse a wet one will. I've seen riders rev the engine and then use the clutch to control speed clear across an intersection. That will not work (for long) with a dry clutch. Try it and you will smell the clutch vaporizing. You want to release the clutch quickly to minimize slipping and then accelerate.

    With my '06 RT, I usually have the clutch fully engaged within one bike length from a stop. Yes, coming from a UJM with a wet clutch, that took some adjustment and parking lot practice.

    I don't think setting a fixed rpm and then releasing the clutch is really what anyone is suggesting. You want to increase the rpms from idle at the same time you ease out the clutch. You might hit 2000 rpm by the time the lever is all the way out, but if the engine is still accelerating at that point, you will not have the lugging symptoms you describe.
    Larry
    2006 R1200RT

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