My '03 K1200GT just passed 180,000 miles and runs fine. Just wondering if there are preventive maintenance steps/parts replacement that should be done to prevent future problems--maybe a timing chain or some similar moving part? Drive shaft was replaced at about 108,000 and clutch and main seal maybe 10,000 thereafter. Everything else is original equipment. Thanks.
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
High Miles Preventive Maintenance
- Thread starter lljanssen
- Start date
gtrider
52184
Things worth checking:
1. Final drive pivot bearings, and cleaning/lubing the driveshaft splines at all three points—front, middle, and rear. Make sure the driveshaft is properly phased on reassembly and free to move at the middle set of splines. Use a good moly spline lube like the one sold by Beemershop in CA
2. Cam chain tensioning sliders. These are wearable and at 180k miles should at least be inspected.
3. If it hasn’t been done already, replace all the rubber brake lines with braided SS lines. Spiegler has good lines and can put together a fitting combo to handle the non-standard clutch line fitting.
Beyond that, if the bike is getting regular 6/12/24k inspections anything that might pop up would hopefully give some advance warning at inspection. There are some rubber drive cushions on the alternator (“monkey nuts”) that sometimes begin to deteriorate with age/heat/use but they are a pain to get to unless one is already doing service that exposes access (like rear main seal replacement). Best to wait until you’re in there for other service or they begin to make noise.
Beyond that, if it were mine I’d just keep sticking to the service schedule with recommended products and keep riding. The brick-k bikes are pretty solid.
Best,
DeVern
1. Final drive pivot bearings, and cleaning/lubing the driveshaft splines at all three points—front, middle, and rear. Make sure the driveshaft is properly phased on reassembly and free to move at the middle set of splines. Use a good moly spline lube like the one sold by Beemershop in CA
2. Cam chain tensioning sliders. These are wearable and at 180k miles should at least be inspected.
3. If it hasn’t been done already, replace all the rubber brake lines with braided SS lines. Spiegler has good lines and can put together a fitting combo to handle the non-standard clutch line fitting.
Beyond that, if the bike is getting regular 6/12/24k inspections anything that might pop up would hopefully give some advance warning at inspection. There are some rubber drive cushions on the alternator (“monkey nuts”) that sometimes begin to deteriorate with age/heat/use but they are a pain to get to unless one is already doing service that exposes access (like rear main seal replacement). Best to wait until you’re in there for other service or they begin to make noise.
Beyond that, if it were mine I’d just keep sticking to the service schedule with recommended products and keep riding. The brick-k bikes are pretty solid.
Best,
DeVern
adamchandler
YouTube Mechanic
I can definitely endorse the swap to spiegler. Beemershop sold them to me. perfect fitment on my 75. They made the braking a lot more confidence inspiring. I can more easily engage ABS if I really want to paired with new pads and a brake fluid flush, that was a great upgrade.
Things to check on a high mileage brick...
Unless it has been replaced, the clutch o-ring is probably shot and is leaking engine oil on the clutch.
This requires dropping the rear off the bike with all the "stuff" in between.
The engine will have to be "tilted" in the frame in order to get the trans off without dinging it up.
The tube from the crankcase breather on top of the engine that feeds engine oil vapors to the throttle bodies rots out in about 10 years. When was it last replaced?
Rear drive pivot pins probably need replacing. They tend to go every 20-30,000 miles.
Wheel bearing need to be inspected.
Brake lines and pads with a real good cleaning of the calipers.
Valve check with new plugs.
And...
Deryle & Wanda Mehrten
Sierra Vista, AZ USA
Unless it has been replaced, the clutch o-ring is probably shot and is leaking engine oil on the clutch.
This requires dropping the rear off the bike with all the "stuff" in between.
The engine will have to be "tilted" in the frame in order to get the trans off without dinging it up.
The tube from the crankcase breather on top of the engine that feeds engine oil vapors to the throttle bodies rots out in about 10 years. When was it last replaced?
Rear drive pivot pins probably need replacing. They tend to go every 20-30,000 miles.
Wheel bearing need to be inspected.
Brake lines and pads with a real good cleaning of the calipers.
Valve check with new plugs.
And...
Deryle & Wanda Mehrten
Sierra Vista, AZ USA
Similar threads
