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Thread: What else? :scratch new clutch kit, '98 R11RT

  1. #1
    #81822 bp@sr9's Avatar
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    What else? :scratch new clutch kit, '98 R11RT

    Am gearing up to replace the clutch pak on my '98 R11RT~ 140Kmi. I used Chris Harris' video when I lubed the splines a year or so ago, not a big challenge but more than a day or two on the rack.
    Questions 1)- are there other things to swap out while I'm in there? Specifically thinking about the rear crank oil seal, assuming no leaks weeps or seeps, should I replace it anyway? Seems like a pita to r&r the flywheel if not needed. HES replaced @ ~104K ( was in good condition, I suppose due to living in the cooler coastal environs). Maybe neutral switch ? Clutch cable, for sure.
    2) might as well replace the swingarm pivot bearings. Are the oem tapered rollers still fine, or are there updates like the final drive pivots?

    Any tips appreciated. b

  2. #2
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    The “lazy neutral switch” is such a common complaint. Unless your neutral switch light is working perfectly, I would replace it preventitively.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  3. #3
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    The “lazy neutral switch” is such a common complaint. Unless your neutral switch light is working perfectly, I would replace it preventitively.
    Bit o'coin but I agree.

    You have to remove the flywheel to make sure it's parallel and true.

    If no real indicators of seal leakage or hot spots on the flywheel/pressure plate, I would be inclined to well enough alone.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  4. #4
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    If the Flywheel seal is dry leave it as is. Leaking is not common even on high mileage machines.
    My oilhead GS has 230,00 miles on the original seal.
    The seals are $41ea and the 5 one time use bolts are $14ea.
    Installation of these requires care to following correct procedure or they will be damaged.

    The transmission input shaft seal should be replaced as a PM
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  5. #5
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    The “lazy neutral switch” is such a common complaint. Unless your neutral switch light is working perfectly, I would replace it preventitively.
    So I have the lazy neutral switch. Where would I find the switch during the process of changing out the clutch? Asking for a friend😀.

  6. #6
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by weschmann View Post
    So I have the lazy neutral switch. Where would I find the switch during the process of changing out the clutch? Asking for a friend😀.
    https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...43e537e6_b.jpg

    I think this link will work. It’s at the back of the transmission, next to the shaft.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  7. #7
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...43e537e6_b.jpg

    I think this link will work. It’s at the back of the transmission, next to the shaft.
    Cool. Thanks a bunch!

  8. #8
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    #81822 bp@sr9's Avatar
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    Thanks all!

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