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What else? :scratch new clutch kit, '98 R11RT

bp@sr9

#81822
Am gearing up to replace the clutch pak on my '98 R11RT~ 140Kmi. I used Chris Harris' video when I lubed the splines a year or so ago, not a big challenge but more than a day or two on the rack.
Questions 1)- are there other things to swap out while I'm in there? Specifically thinking about the rear crank oil seal, assuming no leaks weeps or seeps, should I replace it anyway? Seems like a pita to r&r the flywheel if not needed. HES replaced @ ~104K ( was in good condition, I suppose due to living in the cooler coastal environs). Maybe neutral switch ? Clutch cable, for sure.
2) might as well replace the swingarm pivot bearings. Are the oem tapered rollers still fine, or are there updates like the final drive pivots?

Any tips appreciated. b
 
The “lazy neutral switch” is such a common complaint. Unless your neutral switch light is working perfectly, I would replace it preventitively.
 
The “lazy neutral switch” is such a common complaint. Unless your neutral switch light is working perfectly, I would replace it preventitively.

Bit o'coin but I agree.

You have to remove the flywheel to make sure it's parallel and true.

If no real indicators of seal leakage or hot spots on the flywheel/pressure plate, I would be inclined to well enough alone.
 
If the Flywheel seal is dry leave it as is. Leaking is not common even on high mileage machines.
My oilhead GS has 230,00 miles on the original seal.
The seals are $41ea and the 5 one time use bolts are $14ea.
Installation of these requires care to following correct procedure or they will be damaged.

The transmission input shaft seal should be replaced as a PM
 
The “lazy neutral switch” is such a common complaint. Unless your neutral switch light is working perfectly, I would replace it preventitively.

So I have the lazy neutral switch. Where would I find the switch during the process of changing out the clutch? Asking for a friend😀.
 
Brought to life :)

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