Why purchase a camhead , dry clutch over a wethead ,wet clutch RT

I would like some feed back from owners about camhead/ dry clutch Vs wethead/wet clutch RT

Thanks , Mike

I think the water cooled bikes might vibrate a little less and have a clutch action more like Japanese bikes, but the potential cost of replacing cams and followers or a stator would bother me. The cruise control is nice if you do a lot of highway riding though.
The twin cam engine is good enough once the cams are timed properly, but I’d make sure to stay away from an oil burner. It doesn’t seem to hurt anything but it is a pain to need to carry oil with you on a trip.

Cost is probably the biggest issue for most people. Low mileage, highly-equipped hexhead/camheads can be found for reasonable prices if you're willing to hunt. A wethead will generally have some more tech, but it really depends on the specific bike. There's a lot of info for both types out there, but working on a hexhead/camhead may be a tad easier - it all depends on what you're willing to do (if anything at all).

I've had both. Had an '07,'12, and now a '17. The '17 seems to have a lot more clutch drag than previous models, I feel like the clutch never fully disengages and shifting into first gives the typical clunk, but also a slight lurch forward. Dealer said this was "normal". The older models just clunked, no lurch. Frankly I liked the idea of the separate gearbox with it's own oil a little better, but there isn't a giant difference between the two otherwise in every day use. My '12 developed an oil leak at the rear of the engine at 80,000 miles and required a costly repair, at which time it also made sense to replace the clutch even though it was still working just fine. So the dry clutch does last, but I don't have enough miles on the wet clutch to know if it is as good or more durable.

I have a 2011 R1200RT Hexhead. Had it since 2015, I think I'm the 3rd owner. I think it hits the sweet spot between older oil heads which required regular valve adjustments, and the Wetheads which need coolant replacement. Basic bike is still in production as the R9T series, so parts should never be a problem.

My transmission shifts beautifully. Little clunk going down into 2 or 1 when stopping, unless you wait till almost stopped. Valves are easy to check. So far all are in spec at 40K KM.

The Hex Head uses an old style, non platinum or iridium spark plugs (4) which requires more regular replacements than the newer high mileage plugs. Might be better in the long run though, as they are changed before they get corroded into the head. Don't forget some anti-siezing compound.

Radio iPod interface is intermittent. Sometimes works fine, then drops the connection and the only way to get it going is to shut off the bike and hope it starts again. I had the radio software updated, but it still flakes out. Might be better with an Android phone. So far I haven't found causes the dropped connection. Maybe an MP3 format, or song label? Too many songs on my iPhone?

My clutch seems to be doing OK. It can smell if you really slip it with too much revs, like trying to start up a hill. Happened once or twice, no harm, but probably a bit of extra wear.

I haven't had any oil leeks. I wish the oil sight glass was on the same side as the oil fill. It's real easy to over fill, and get confused between way over full, and not yet full. I now use a dedicated oil jug marked with the EXACT amount of oil the engine should take, and go slow for the last little bit.

BMW repaired the fuel pump once (previous owner), and replaced it for me at no cost, well outside of warranty due to a safety recall. Plastic fuel outlet cracks and leaks and you will notice fuel smell while riding. The left handlebar switches had a recall and were replaced on my bike when the cruise control would not engage.

My bike did go through H4 headlight bulbs. Once following a spirited ride at high RPM. Might be due to Canadian bikes have full time Daytime Running Lights. Could be an RPM which generates a buzz that the bulbs didn't like, but that doesn't mean the bike vibrates. Normal operation it's pretty smooth. Last set seem to be doing OK, but not riding as much during the pandemic. Bulb replacement is a real tricky affair navigating your hands in the dark from below.

I trailer mine regularly on a single Kendon trailer to get past all the freeway miles and find a base to take day rides. It is a bit of a challenge getting tie downs between the front shock. I go left handlebar with a double loop strap to ratchet strap to right side trailer tie down, and reverse for right side handlebar. Watch out that straps don't put any pressure on handlebar cabling.

Overall I think my 2011 is a great machine. It will probably outlive me.

I may be biased, because I've had 4 hexheads and 5 camheads and only 1 waterboxer. However, my current ride is still a camhead and I think it will probably be so for a long time. Talking the RT specifically (it's my preferred ride), here's a summary of the major differences to me (the one I had was a 2016 for reference):

Water cooled good:
- More power
- Quick shifter
- Cheaper clutch job
- Feels lower to the ground and has the usual great RT handling
- Stereo is not great, but better than previous versions
- Electronic gadgets are nice when everything works (central locking, ASC is smooth)

Water cooled bad:
- Heavier and wider
- Shorter clutch engagement (felt like more work when doing drills/low speed)
- Many functions now buried in menus rather than having separate buttons (you can choose one thing to be a favorite at least)
- With the E-throttle comes the infamous limp mode, that left me limping on the side of the road on several occasions until I could get to a dealer (they never figured out what caused it, just reset the software and it would work again for a while)
- More involved maintenance and a water system to worry about

Camhead good:
- Lighter, more narrow, feels smaller than the new RT
- Dry clutch lasts a long time and feels better for low speed clutch work (at least to me, and I spend a lot of time teaching in a parking lot with it)
- Super easy maintenance
- Incredible value buying used now. We just bought another 2011 RT for my wife for $6200 today. Hard to beat that.
- I think they look better than the newer gen

Camhead bad:
- Dry clutch is a bear to change and costs close to $3k to have a dealer do it. I just paid the 3k when mine went at 96k miles
- Noticeably less power than the water cooled bikes
- Stereo is garbage


Well, you know what I chose. There are upsides and downsides to everything

On my Camhead, I can activate heated grips and seats with at hand switches. I see only negatives in being forced to do this via a screen menu. Not while moving for sure.

My Camhead features the best tank bag in the history of tank bags. BMW foolishly eliminated this with wetheads.

Wetheads feature radiator hot air blowing on driver. Camhead oil cooler doesn't.

Wetheads have water pumps that leak.

Good luck working on a Wethead alternator


General stuff ...

RT riders need to understand that BMW considers its primary customer the Police. Police service is severe and clutches suffer. The change to wet clutches was to please the Police market, as indeed wet clutch service is easier and less expensive. I've never had clutch problems with any dry clutch BMW I've owned since 1978.

Wetheads are in fact smaller bikes than Camheads ... there are now more and more female Police officers.

The stereo system on my Camhead is perfect. Of course I connect to mine with BMW Communicator, not some aftermarket system.


The best thing to be said about Wetheads imho is improvement in safety systems, meaning mostly traction control. I think the latest even have control during lean. LED lighting on very latest must be good. The worst thing? TFT dash. Don't need quick shift, have lived without hill hold, despise central locking and keyless.

jcdas said:

I have a 2011 R1200RT Hexhead.

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A 2011 is a camhead. Hexhead RTs were model years 2005 - 2009. Camhead RTs are model years 2010 to 2013.

In terms of the OPs question...

I have a 2016 (wethead) R1200RT which I really like, but just bought a 2021 R Nine T for shorter trips and when the temps in the west are too high for the big RT fairing.

The R NineT uses the camhead motor and dry clutch. The camhead motor is a bit smoother than the wethead motor in my experience of owning both, but they both have their place for sure. Ride both types of RT and pick the bike that suits you best.

natrab said:

I may be biased, because I've had 4 hexheads and 5 camheads and only 1 waterboxer. However, my current ride is still a camhead and I think it will probably be so for a long time. Talking the RT specifically (it's my preferred ride), here's a summary of the major differences to me (the one I had was a 2016 for reference):

Water cooled good:
- More power
- Quick shifter
- Cheaper clutch job
- Feels lower to the ground and has the usual great RT handling
- Stereo is not great, but better than previous versions
- Electronic gadgets are nice when everything works (central locking, ASC is smooth)

Water cooled bad:
- Heavier and wider
- Shorter clutch engagement (felt like more work when doing drills/low speed)
- Many functions now buried in menus rather than having separate buttons (you can choose one thing to be a favorite at least)
- With the E-throttle comes the infamous limp mode, that left me limping on the side of the road on several occasions until I could get to a dealer (they never figured out what caused it, just reset the software and it would work again for a while)
- More involved maintenance and a water system to worry about

Camhead good:
- Lighter, more narrow, feels smaller than the new RT
- Dry clutch lasts a long time and feels better for low speed clutch work (at least to me, and I spend a lot of time teaching in a parking lot with it)
- Super easy maintenance
- Incredible value buying used now. We just bought another 2011 RT for my wife for $6200 today. Hard to beat that.
- I think they look better than the newer gen

Camhead bad:
- Dry clutch is a bear to change and costs close to $3k to have a dealer do it. I just paid the 3k when mine went at 96k miles
- Noticeably less power than the water cooled bikes
- Stereo is garbage


Well, you know what I chose. There are upsides and downsides to everything

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So a 2007 R1200RT w/ 32K miles for $4500 would be a good deal (if there are no existing problems)? I do a slow speed drills and didnt know if a dry clutch could take it ($3K to replace is a little concerning)

Actually there's less maintenance on a wet head. No transmission fluid change (only crankcase change), no injector sync, no alternator belt to change and as a general rule valve clearances stay in spec longer. Yes, there's coolant, but not an intensive chore when it does come up.

lkchris said:

On my Camhead, I can activate heated grips and seats with at hand switches. I see only negatives in being forced to do this via a screen menu. Not while moving for sure.

My Camhead features the best tank bag in the history of tank bags. BMW foolishly eliminated this with wetheads.

Wetheads feature radiator hot air blowing on driver. Camhead oil cooler doesn't.

Wetheads have water pumps that leak.

Good luck working on a Wethead alternator


General stuff ...

RT riders need to understand that BMW considers its primary customer the Police. Police service is severe and clutches suffer. The change to wet clutches was to please the Police market, as indeed wet clutch service is easier and less expensive. I've never had clutch problems with any dry clutch BMW I've owned since 1978.

Wetheads are in fact smaller bikes than Camheads ... there are now more and more female Police officers.

The stereo system on my Camhead is perfect. Of course I connect to mine with BMW Communicator, not some aftermarket system.


The best thing to be said about Wetheads imho is improvement in safety systems, meaning mostly traction control. I think the latest even have control during lean. LED lighting on very latest must be good. The worst thing? TFT dash. Don't need quick shift, have lived without hill hold, despise central locking and keyless.

Click to expand...

Boy, there's a lot of stuff here that I have issues with, but I'll pick just one.

"Wetheads feature radiator hot air blowing on driver."

No it doesn't. If you keep your legs somewhat tucked in you don't feel the radiator heat. Well, I don't. My last bike before my current R1250RT was a 2005 R1200RT "Hexhead". That bike actually had one area where you got some heat. The oil cooler. I never really noticed it until I bought my 1250 and found it noticeably cooler behind the fairing. Of all the bikes I've owned, the 1250 is the best by far with heat management.

taran1900 said:

"Wetheads feature radiator hot air blowing on driver."

No it doesn't.

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My Wethead experience consists of riding a loaner from dealer service to home and back.

However, I've read plenty of complaints in this and other forums regarding Wethead radiator heat transfer to rider. Apparently ymmv.

I have no experience with the wetheads, but my camhead GS is the best bike I've ever experienced. It just feels right, and is a heluva lot better-looking to my eye than the angular, jagged styling of the wetheads. I like not having menus for controls, but I also wish it had cruise-control, so it's not perfect (perfect for me would be a K1600 with as much leg-room as a GS, but I guess you can't have everything!). Best of all, it's been paid-for for years!

only had a Hexhead, but love my Wethead much better, more power, great throttle response, no troublesome fuel strip, less maintenance. But each to their own.