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Thread: Vetter Windjammer fairing Uninstall (1973 R75/5)

  1. #16
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Patience

    There are many ways you can proceed with your return to OM. All the parts needed are available either new or used so you are good there.

    As for wiring, I am NOT a fan of the scotch lock connectors and agree with the posts that they have no business being used in a proper wiring system. Over the years, I have spent a good amount of time repairing screwed up wiring resulting from their use and more to the point the dingbats who don't know how to use them or shouldn't do wiring at all. Some people get lucky, use them and have no problems, sadly, my experience is the opposite. There really is no excuse for sloppy wiring in any job. Oh, if I were in a life or death situation where they were all I had on hand, that would be different. Doing things neat and proper takes so little extra time as far as I am concerned. Solder, proper terminals/connectors are far better.

    Anyway, I suppose like always I rubbed someone the wrong way but, depending upon how much your OM wiring was hacked up, you will either have an easy time or hard. There is a possibility harnesses are available to make things easier.

    Installing the mounting brackets for the turn signals means taking the top of the fork assembly apart the wires themselves pass into and out of the boots via holes, and as such are out of sight and protected. It will be a day job at the most.

    Good luck, St.

  2. #17
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Know from recent experience the wiring harness for front turn signals is still available. Wires color coded to the terminal plate of course.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S

  3. #18
    Vintage User nevada72's Avatar
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    No love for Scotch-loks but the yellow wirenuts don't get a mention??

    Congrats on the /5! Great bikes.

    I had a similar setup on my 71 when I bought it. This is very fixable but first you need to decide if you want to make it 100% OEM stock, or do you just want it to work (and work well)? My bike needed paint and pretty much everything else so I decided to do a good job on refurbishing it, but I didn't necessarily need to make it look factory installed, nor would I ever enter it into a Concours competition where originality counts. If I wanted that I would have bought a cleaner example for a LOT more Money, which is what I spent anyway.

    Some thoughts based on my refurb - -

    The shell looks basically good. You should probably pull it off and take it 100% apart. You may want to consider new paint or powder coat (like I did). The potential problem is how out of round the shell can get which makes putting the trim ring on dicey. But that just takes patience. And a nylon hammer sometimes.

    As far as wiring - it all starts with that switch. And that switch is a pita. I replaced mine with a Rocky Point unit which greatly simplifies things. There are some tricks to this so ask if you are going to do this. Annealing the tabs that hold the switch in is recommended.

    Replace any suspect wiring. Many will tell you to source German color coded wiring. I couldn't find any so I used trailer wiring and shrink wrapped the color onto it. You'll need a good wiring diagram to refer to and the knowledge to read it. Or someone to decipher.

    Turn signal stalks are becoming hard to source. Avoid the chrome ones on Ebay. They are too long and the diameter of the mounting part is too big. Used ones can be sourced and zinc coated or do what I did - more powder coat in zinc color.

    Headlight trim rings are available through EME. Not cheap, but nothing about making an old bike look good is. I opted for the /5 trim ring and I use zip ties to keep it from falling completely off, although it has stayed put on some pretty harsh roads so far.

    Many of us use terminal strips like the white one already on your bike. If you buy the Rocky Point kit it comes with them.



    One could write a book on this topic alone. If you would like help feel free to PM me as I have this still fresh in my mind. Also, joining the Airheads group is a great way to meet like minded and knowledgeable people who are enthusiastic about helping you get your bike on the road. We will literally come to your home and wrench on your bike. I highly recommend joining.
    2016 R1200 RT, 1971 R75/5

  4. #19
    The Big Red One sgtbill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nevada72 View Post
    . This is very fixable but first you need to decide if you want to make it 100% OEM stock, or do you just want it to work (and work well)?
    I don't plan on restoring this bike to Concours condition. I will send anything that is suspect out for repair or rebuild. I do expect to install a few select upgrades that I have found useful in my other Airheads. What I won't be doing is turning it into a bobber, racer, or a franken-bike. I want this one to be one I'd ride daily.

    Quote Originally Posted by nevada72 View Post
    . As far as wiring - it all starts with that switch. And that switch is a pita. I replaced mine with a Rocky Point unit which greatly simplifies things. There are some tricks to this so ask if you are going to do this. Annealing the tabs that hold the switch in is recommended.
    I am heartened to hear the wiring harness is still available. My shell also has some kind of an addition to the key switch mechanism. There are 4 small bolts around the switch. I'll try to get a photo posted.

    Quote Originally Posted by nevada72 View Post
    Also, joining the Airheads group is a great way to meet like minded and knowledgeable people who are enthusiastic about helping you get your bike on the road. We will literally come to your home and wrench on your bike. I highly recommend joining.
    I am a member of the Airhead Club and there are a few Airhead folks nearby. I won't hesitate to ask for advice and help.
    sgtbill
    Duty First!
    86 K100RS EML & 79 R100S & 83 R80ST
    2014 F700GS & 2020 R Nine T /5 & 2020 R1250R

  5. #20
    Vintage User nevada72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtbill View Post
    I am heartened to hear the wiring harness is still available. My shell also has some kind of an addition to the key switch mechanism. There are 4 small bolts around the switch. I'll try to get a photo posted.

    Sounds like you have the right tools to get the job done. Keep us posted!

    Oh.....and point of order - I didn't speak to the wiring harness. Main harnesses are available and I'm sure one could source other wiring assemblies for the /5. That said, the front blinkers are just a wire (blu/red and blu/blk) that run down the fork from the shell to the blinker. I believe the factory didn't install a ground (I could be wrong). I did when I ran new wires just to be sure they stayed functional.
    2016 R1200 RT, 1971 R75/5

  6. #21
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Stuff

    All the proper colored and gauge wire is available as well as the good factory style terminals, everything needed to make a wire harness, if that is the path to choose. There is no need for scotch lock or AutoZone terminals. I have seen a couple of guys make some very nice one off wiring jobs on bikes. If you have the know how, patience and desire, you don't always need a factory harness.

    Many long years ago, I was young and used the shortcuts available to get the job done and working. Some shortcuts are good and work, others not always. I found using scotch lock connectors and cheap crimp ons worked for a while, sometimes the life of the car, but when they failed, (more often than I cared) they made things difficult to repair.

    I like the idea of adding a ground wire, my mind goes blank but I believe the /6 I helped install the factory signals on didn't have one. They grounded to the stalk. We did put a short pigtail on each to be sure they were grounded to good metal.

    Good luck and enjoy. St.

  7. #22
    The Big Red One sgtbill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nevada72 View Post

    As far as wiring - it all starts with that switch. And that switch is a pita. I replaced mine with a Rocky Point unit which greatly simplifies things. There are some tricks to this so ask if you are going to do this. Annealing the tabs that hold the switch in is recommended.
    View from the top of the headlight shell. The four hex bolts are what I am curious about.

    IMG_5091.jpg

    View from the front of the headlight shell.

    IMG_5093.jpg

    I assume this is an aftermarket switch gizmo of some sort. Thoughts?
    sgtbill
    Duty First!
    86 K100RS EML & 79 R100S & 83 R80ST
    2014 F700GS & 2020 R Nine T /5 & 2020 R1250R

  8. #23
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Ha! Never seen that before! I don't think it's an aftermarket gizmo, but a shadetree fix for a problem. The small circuit board in the headlight of the /5 bikes is held in place by four pieces of triangular metal that are bent around the edges of the circuit board. Those metal tabs can only be bent/unbent a small number of times before they break. They work harden. To fix that, one must use direct heat from a torch to relative the work hardening and add some ductility back to the metal.

    In your case, someone just decided to run four bolts through the top of the headlight shell and through the board to secure it in place. I hope they are metric bolts! If the ignition still works, I'd probably leave it alone. But if it doesn't, as mentioned Rocky Point sells a replacement ignition key system as a replacement.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  9. #24
    Vintage User nevada72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtbill View Post
    View from the top of the headlight shell. The four hex bolts are what I am curious about.

    IMG_5091.jpg

    View from the front of the headlight shell.

    IMG_5093.jpg

    I assume this is an aftermarket switch gizmo of some sort. Thoughts?
    Good Lord that is ugly. Wow! To me it looks like someone cobbled the original switch onto the shell with the 4 bolts. Working or not, I would remove that and start over. The potential issue is that someone may have gone that route because they broke off the 4 tabs that hold that board on. It can happen if you don't anneal the tabs before bending them back.

    I believe one can source a replacement piece that gets welded on but considering all that's going on there (the 4 holes) I would consider looking for a replacement shell that doesn't need so much work. I had a spare but I gave it to another airhead with a project bike. But they are around.
    2016 R1200 RT, 1971 R75/5

  10. #25
    The Big Red One sgtbill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nevada72 View Post
    Good Lord that is ugly. Wow! To me it looks like someone cobbled the original switch onto the shell with the 4 bolts. Working or not, I would remove that and start over. The potential issue is that someone may have gone that route because they broke off the 4 tabs that hold that board on. It can happen if you don't anneal the tabs before bending them back.

    I believe one can source a replacement piece that gets welded on but considering all that's going on there (the 4 holes) I would consider looking for a replacement shell that doesn't need so much work. I had a spare but I gave it to another airhead with a project bike. But they are around.
    I have started keeping an eye peeled for another shell. Not sure this one is worth rescuing.
    sgtbill
    Duty First!
    86 K100RS EML & 79 R100S & 83 R80ST
    2014 F700GS & 2020 R Nine T /5 & 2020 R1250R

  11. #26
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Wow

    Sorry you got bit bad by previous owners disease. If you can't find a shell in the US, there are sources in the UK. Motowerks comes to mind first. https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Home/index.php. I have ordered from them and surprisingly shipping is not as bad as one would think.

    I would also look into joining the Vintage BMW motorcycle club. Perhaps a member there would have parts you are looking for. It will be a good bike when cured. St.

  12. #27
    Yes, the ‘good’ old days lol. My 71 /5 was the same animal with that ‘key’ and square board plate within the head light shell that many wires then screwed into from below the plate (as I recall). Had one burn out up at a, I think, the bmw national rally back in the day at I think NY. What fun though a dealer located a used panel plate for me and got her back together in no time.

    Your airhead group can assist for certain. One would hope that windjammer wiring harness took the wires from the /5 to power the fairing and with diagrams and airhead history knowledge they can undo or direct you. Those old windjammers were great in the day, just a lot of weight as I recall and the fairing mounts could have a weld break now and then

    Enjoy the ride.
    And just a history lesson, that bmw key is sort of like a Nail. You just need something to push down in that hole so the two plates make contact then the bike can start as I recall. The notch in the pin metal of the key simply slide into a ball bearing area (my recall) which ‘locked’ the key into place as it pressed the two plates together. Well that plus the ability to turn the key which as I recall turned on the headlight. Good times for certain.

  13. #28
    Yes, the ‘good’ old days lol. My 71 /5 was the same animal with that ‘key’ and square board plate within the head light shell that many wires then screwed into from below the plate (as I recall). Had one burn out up at a, I think, the bmw national rally back in the day at I think NY. What fun though a dealer located a used panel plate for me and got her back together in no time.

    Your airhead group can assist for certain. One would hope that windjammer wiring harness took the wires from the /5 to power the fairing and with diagrams and airhead history knowledge they can undo or direct you. Those old windjammers were great in the day, just a lot of weight as I recall and the fairing mounts could have a weld break now and then

    Enjoy the ride.
    And just a history lesson, that bmw key is sort of like a Nail. You just need something to push down in that hole so the two plates make contact then the bike can start as I recall. The notch in the pin metal of the key simply slide into a ball bearing area (my recall) which ‘locked’ the key into place as it pressed the two plates together. Well that plus the ability to turn the key which as I recall turned on the headlight. Good times for certain.

    Bmw bone yard web site might have some items if you need them though the /5 days are long gone.

  14. #29
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Optical Trick?

    I hope I am just seeing an optical trick in the pictures but to me, the speedometer needle looks bent? St.

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