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Thread: New Clutch Slave Installation Question

  1. #1

    New Clutch Slave Installation Question

    Greetings,
    I've installed a new slave cylinder in a 2001 R1100S after completing a spline lube & friction disk upgrade. Bleeding the clutch has been very difficult, I've gone through a full litre of fluid. I'm using a standard bleeder screw in the discharge line & following the usual steps.

    Finally there no bubbles showing but the clutch still feels soft. Also, I'm not able to move friction disk through the started hole with the clutch lever pulled as I could with the old setup. I'm concerned that the clutch will drag.

    Is this typical? Is there a better way to bleed a dry slave cylinder?

    Any ideas are appreciated,
    Thanks, Charles

  2. #2
    Vacuum bled it from the slave cylinder.
    Shawn Conver
    K4CTD
    2011 R1200RT, 2018 Cummins 2500, 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

  3. #3
    Thanks Shawn,
    In the past conventional bleeding worked fine. A vacuum setup may be the answer with so much air in the system. I'll give one a try if the clutch in fact drags.

  4. #4
    I replaced the slave cylinder on my '04 RT (slight leaking at 110k miles).

    It was also tough to bleed so I engaged the lever and tied it with a rubber band to the handlebar and let it sit over-nite. In the morning, one huge air bubble came through the line and then it sealed right up.

  5. #5
    Thanks RPG,
    I've tried that once. Did the air come out through the reservoir or through the bleeder port? I'll give it another shot.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by arbezc View Post
    Thanks RPG,
    I've tried that once. Did the air come out through the reservoir or through the bleeder port? I'll give it another shot.
    Mine came out through the bleeder port/nipple. One other trick I failed to mention is to leave the bleeder port line dangling over-nite. It normally is mounted up along the frame rail, and is higher than the slave cylinder.

    I left it hanging over-nite so it would be the lowest point.

    After bleeding, you'll want to mount it on the frame rail, of course.

    RPG

  7. #7
    Thanks RPG,
    I left the clutch lever tied for a day & the clutch action feels better. The rear wheel turns freely with the clutch in. early on I had the bleed port hanging by omission. I've also picked up a vacuum bleeder just in case.
    Charles

  8. #8
    good to hear. that's just a little trick some of us have used over the years.

  9. #9
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Whenever dealing with empty clutch or new brake lines the job is much easier if the fluid is pushed up from the bottom.
    Air bubbles rise up much easier than trying to push down.

    This works flawlessly
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  10. #10
    Registered User bewareboy's Avatar
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    I too have had success after replacing the clutch line and slave cylinder to do what I like to call a "reverse bleed" and push new fluid and air back up north towards the master cylinder on the handlebars.
    Jim "BewareBoy" Snyder
    Cincinnati, OH
    2004 R1150RT

  11. #11
    Excellent, thanks for the suggestions.

    GSAddict, is that a check valve in the tubing attached to the syringe?

  12. #12
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arbezc View Post
    Excellent, thanks for the suggestions.

    GSAddict, is that a check valve in the tubing attached to the syringe?
    No, its a 1/4 turn shutoff valve.
    Standard drip irrigation part
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