1974 R60/6... feeling lost.

Hey Kurt, yeah I have the 4.8 tank, are airheads just smelly? I’ll revisit the valves once more, tight valves and tight rockers can cause shutting down at a stop, right?

What is the usual maintenance interval for points?

Appreciate the help! I’m definitely learning a lot.

It's my understanding that tight valves make for issues at low RPM such as idle as well as starting. As for points, I would think that once set, the points gap should be stable for many thousands of miles. There is a rubbing block that runs on the camshaft so it can wear...it does need some special cam lubricant to help it to not wear down too fast.

austinob09@gmail.com said:

Hey Kurt yeah I’ve filled up twice and I’m in need of another fill up. So I’m +/- 150 per tank does that sound right?

I’ll check my plugs and points when I have time this weekend. Is it common for the points to go out of adjust that fast? Might be time to invest in the electronic points…

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I have a a. 74 R60/6 also. I have to really flog the bike very hard to get the gas mileage below 50 mpg - US gallons. Generally, I get anywhere from 50 to 53 mpg and the ride is spirited. I fill with non ethanol gas which improves mpg a little. I would establish a baseline tune up. Make sure that the gas height in the bowls isn’t too high.

Float, valve and spark plugs

Hey guys,

I started with a float bowl adjustment it seemed like the tab wasn’t hitting the needle soon enough, perhaps why it was running rich. It wouldn’t start so I put new spark plugs in, charged the battery, and checked the valves again. My exhaust valve on the left side was tight.

It fired up! I read that to properly adjust the valves it needs to be warmed up so took off down the road and it sputtered out on me. Took me awhile to get it back running playing with the carbs and then went home to try and adjust them again. I followed the instructions and had the bike happily idling. I’m hoping the bike was warm enough when I did the adjustment. The red light is on during the idle so it might be a little low. Any thoughts?

It’s running good now, and I refueled so let’s see what happens

The attached photos are my old fouled plugs

ens! .

To be properly adjusted, valves MUST be adjusted COLD!!!!!!!

PGlaves said:

To be properly adjusted, valves MUST be adjusted COLD!!!!!!!

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The owners manual says to adjust while hot and suggests that it will take 12-15 mins of stop and go riding.

I've heard it can take 30-45 mins to get to operating temperature. Yesterday was a hot day and I think I reached operating temperature rather fast.

Can anyone confirm engine temperature while adjusting carbs?

Carbs should be adjusted at operating temp. Valves should be adjusted cold.

austinob09@gmail.com said:

The owners manual says to adjust while hot and suggests that it will take 12-15 mins of stop and go riding.

I've heard it can take 30-45 mins to get to operating temperature. Yesterday was a hot day and I think I reached operating temperature rather fast.

Can anyone confirm engine temperature while adjusting carbs?

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Go back and read your post, and that manual, and my post. Yes, CARBS should be adjusted with the engine fully WARMED up (whatever that actually means). But VALVES must be adjusted COLD.

You go out to your bike before riding and check or adjust the valve clearance. Then take the bike out for a 10 mile ride and then adjust the carbs. If you have a fuel injected bike, the process is the same.

PGlaves said:

Go back and read your post, and that manual, and my post. Yes, CARBS should be adjusted with the engine fully WARMED up (whatever that actually means). But VALVES must be adjusted COLD.

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My apologies Paul, it’s Monday.

austinob09@gmail.com said:

My apologies Paul, it’s Monday.

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No problem. I just wanted to make sure problems didn't happen.

Coarse pitch on valve adjusting threads

I am fairly new to airheads. I found the thread pitch on the valve adjusters to be quite coarse compared to other bikes I've worked on. A VERY small movement on the adjuster will make a big difference in valve lash. Go slow and check your work twice or thrice.

Once "warmed up", you are going to need at some times to keep it running. While setting idle, adjusting air screw, sometimes with cable adjustment, are just examples.. For me, I most often put the bike on the center stand and then put 2 of the biggest box fans you can find in front of the engine on each side. This will work for awhile to allow you to keep the engine running while you work on it. MY test for "is it getting HOT"??? Just touch the valve covers with your bare hand. If you can't keep your fingers there...........IT'S HOT..........Take it for a ride and let it cool down...........MAKE IT FUN......God bless