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'07 F650gs Clutch Fork Release Lever torque spec?

J

jnclem

New member
I am replacing the clutch fork release lever on an '07 F650gs. I suspect this one cracked because I overtightened it a year ago when I was replacing the water pump. I am looking for the recommended torque for the pinch bolt. Does anyone know what it is? This is the lever that the clutch cable engages down on the top of the clutch cover.
Thanks.
 
Can you attach a picture? I'm not sure what exactly you are referring to. I have a Haynes shop manual for the F800.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
ccramerusc said:
Can you attach a picture? I'm not sure what exactly you are referring to. I have a Haynes shop manual for the F800.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I notice that it's a different part number from G650 on, but it looks the same on the singles. Actually, that picture is from an earlier model. The bolt is reversed, but you get the idea.
 

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  • ClutchForkArmClassic.jpg
    ClutchForkArmClassic.jpg
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Wow, that is very different and much more heavy duty than the equivalent lever that is on my F800. The lever on mine is part of the shaft that goes into the clutch. It's all one piece with a bracket that pivots where the cable attaches. There is no pinch bolt and splined shaft.

My manual says it's for the F800 and F650, but there is no mention of what you show. Sorry that I can't help.

20210902_082725[1].jpg
 
Just to offer up a different website, which suggests the 10-12 Nm value...that's just about 7 ft-lbs or 88 in-lbs...might need a special torque wrench to be accurate down that low.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/Metric-Recommended-Torque.aspx

I can't imagine that getting this torqued is too big of a concern...although you said the previous lever cracked. The sump bolts on my Airhead take about the same torque...I just put a 10mm socket on a screwdriver nutdriver and tighten them...can't hardly over torque that! I'd snug it up then check it again after the first or second ride. Still tight? Maybe check again after a few rides. But usually tightening just a bit after the bolt stops moving is probably good enough! YMMV!

Is there any kind of wave washer under the head of the bolt?

Update...now that I see the crack you reference...I think there must be some other explanation for the crack in that direction. There must be a force which pulls 90 degrees to the crack front and I'm not sure I see it. The clutch cable pulls in such a way as to close the crack. The bolt in question also serves to pinch that side together, thus tending to keep the crack closed.
 
Nice graphics :thumb

You could drill and tap a hole along your green line and repair that. Kinda like a kick starter root canal.
OM
 
As an aside, isn't there a "valley" in the splines? If there is, I was just thinking that the only way you would lose your clutch arm is if the bolt was no longer sitting in that valley. Therefore if you're really concerned with over-torqueing, you could throw some light locktite on the bolt and just snug it down lightly.

My two cents, which is more than it is worth :)
 
drneo66 said:
As an aside, isn't there a "valley" in the splines? If there is, I was just thinking that the only way you would lose your clutch arm is if the bolt was no longer sitting in that valley. Therefore if you're really concerned with over-torqueing, you could throw some light locktite on the bolt and just snug it down lightly.

My two cents, which is more than it is worth :)
Click to expand...

Absolutely. If the bolt stays in the groove the arm will not fall off.
 
Guenther said:
This is a 'Thumper' - single cylinder. I guess a 2007 F650GS Dakar.

The bolt in question is a M6X30-8.8. I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt in the BMW Service and Repair DVD. A typical setting for this type of bolt in aluminum is 10Nm.

The clutch cable clearance is set at the clutch lever on the handlebar.

View attachment 85100
Click to expand...

That's interesting. The method I saw was to install the clutch arm so that there is 47 to 52 mm between the boss that the cable sits in and the inside of the lever. It's sort of like measuring cable length on an airhead or K model. I am using a piece of coat hanged cut to 50mm. I'll try what you have there and see how that comes out.
 
20774 said:
Just to offer up a different website, which suggests the 10-12 Nm value...that's just about 7 ft-lbs or 88 in-lbs...might need a special torque wrench to be accurate down that low.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/Metric-Recommended-Torque.aspx

I can't imagine that getting this torqued is too big of a concern...although you said the previous lever cracked. The sump bolts on my Airhead take about the same torque...I just put a 10mm socket on a screwdriver nutdriver and tighten them...can't hardly over torque that! I'd snug it up then check it again after the first or second ride. Still tight? Maybe check again after a few rides. But usually tightening just a bit after the bolt stops moving is probably good enough! YMMV!

Is there any kind of wave washer under the head of the bolt?

Update...now that I see the crack you reference...I think there must be some other explanation for the crack in that direction. There must be a force which pulls 90 degrees to the crack front and I'm not sure I see it. The clutch cable pulls in such a way as to close the crack. The bolt in question also serves to pinch that side together, thus tending to keep the crack closed.
Click to expand...

There are quite a few anecdotal reports of them cracking when you try to take them off after they have been torqued once or twice. That's what happened to me. I have an inch pound torque wrench that I can use for that. Same one I use on those airhead oil pan bolts. No wave washer. What you suggest is the way I was planning to do it though. Either a short 1/4" ratchet, or a nut driver if I have an 8mm.
 
Omega Man said:
Nice graphics :thumb

You could drill and tap a hole along your green line and repair that. Kinda like a kick starter root canal.
OM
Click to expand...

That's not mine. Mine is in two pieces. That's just a picture I found for someone that asked for a photo. That's actually a classic - pre-04. Mine is slightly different. It's my wife's bike, but I broke it. :)
 
drneo66 said:
As an aside, isn't there a "valley" in the splines? If there is, I was just thinking that the only way you would lose your clutch arm is if the bolt was no longer sitting in that valley. Therefore if you're really concerned with over-torqueing, you could throw some light locktite on the bolt and just snug it down lightly.

My two cents, which is more than it is worth :)
Click to expand...

Great point. Thanks.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. We are supposed to leave on a trip on Sunday afternoon. This happened Tuesday. I called BMW Denver who is always extremely helpful, knowing that no one would probably have that part, and they didn't. They helpfully directed me to their competition, Foothills BMW, because they have a locator and could find me the part more quickly.

Foothills found the part, and it expedited, and it arrived in Denver today. Denver is an 8 hour round trip over several passes from here. I asked them to overnight it to me in Gunnison at about 11:15 this morning. The parts guy said he would take it over to Fedex personally in about 1/2 hour. By 11:52 I had a notice from Fedex that it is scheduled for delivery here tomorrow.

What great service from everyone involved.

I hadn't thought about the function of the channel in that spline shaft. I like the idea of using a little loctite and just snugging it on there and checking it a couple of times as we go along.

Looks like we will hit the road on schedule.
 
This is interesting. This is from an online BMW Service manual. Apparently the 47 to 52mm distance is when the lever is pulled to the release point. So it makes sense that the lever would have to be installed with the shaft turned as far counterclockwise as it would go.

Screen Shot 2021-09-02 at 3.40.00 PM.png
 
jnclem said:
This is interesting. This is from an online BMW Service manual. Apparently the 47 to 52mm distance is when the lever is pulled to the release point. So it makes sense that the lever would have to be installed with the shaft turned as far counterclockwise as it would go.

View attachment 85103
Click to expand...

Actually, what do they mean by "Release Point?" I was first thinking the point where the clutch releases - in other words where you could move the bike if it was in gear and not running - but now I'm wondering if that means where you would first put slack in the cable if you pressed the lever forward by hand. If that makes sense.
 
I imagine that they wanted to say "where the shaft engages with the clutch". I think at that point you can't turn the shaft lightly anymore with your "fingers".

That would take off the slack and the distance should be +/-50mm.

My guess!
 
Guenther said:
I imagine that they wanted to say "where the shaft engages with the clutch". I think at that point you can't turn the shaft lightly anymore with your "fingers".

That would take off the slack and the distance should be +/-50mm.

My guess!
Click to expand...

Yes. as I put it on, that became clear. There is a little play there that give you the required 1 or 2 mm slack. It's pretty obvious when you feel it.
 
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