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Thread: '07 F650gs Clutch Fork Release Lever torque spec?

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    '07 F650gs Clutch Fork Release Lever torque spec?

    I am replacing the clutch fork release lever on an '07 F650gs. I suspect this one cracked because I overtightened it a year ago when I was replacing the water pump. I am looking for the recommended torque for the pinch bolt. Does anyone know what it is? This is the lever that the clutch cable engages down on the top of the clutch cover.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Can you attach a picture? I'm not sure what exactly you are referring to. I have a Haynes shop manual for the F800.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by ccramerusc View Post
    Can you attach a picture? I'm not sure what exactly you are referring to. I have a Haynes shop manual for the F800.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    I notice that it's a different part number from G650 on, but it looks the same on the singles. Actually, that picture is from an earlier model. The bolt is reversed, but you get the idea.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnclem View Post
    I notice that it's a different part number from G650 on, but it looks the same on the singles. Actually, that picture is from an earlier model. The bolt is reversed, but you get the idea.
    Here's a better picture.ClutchLeverGS.jpg

  5. #5
    Wow, that is very different and much more heavy duty than the equivalent lever that is on my F800. The lever on mine is part of the shaft that goes into the clutch. It's all one piece with a bracket that pivots where the cable attaches. There is no pinch bolt and splined shaft.

    My manual says it's for the F800 and F650, but there is no mention of what you show. Sorry that I can't help.

    20210902_082725[1].jpg

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    Registered User Guenther's Avatar
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    This is a 'Thumper' - single cylinder. I guess a 2007 F650GS Dakar.

    The bolt in question is a M6X30-8.8. I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt in the BMW Service and Repair DVD. A typical setting for this type of bolt in aluminum is 10Nm.

    The clutch cable clearance is set at the clutch lever on the handlebar.

    F650GS-Dakar Clutch web.bmp
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    Just to offer up a different website, which suggests the 10-12 Nm value...that's just about 7 ft-lbs or 88 in-lbs...might need a special torque wrench to be accurate down that low.

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ed-Torque.aspx

    I can't imagine that getting this torqued is too big of a concern...although you said the previous lever cracked. The sump bolts on my Airhead take about the same torque...I just put a 10mm socket on a screwdriver nutdriver and tighten them...can't hardly over torque that! I'd snug it up then check it again after the first or second ride. Still tight? Maybe check again after a few rides. But usually tightening just a bit after the bolt stops moving is probably good enough! YMMV!

    Is there any kind of wave washer under the head of the bolt?

    Update...now that I see the crack you reference...I think there must be some other explanation for the crack in that direction. There must be a force which pulls 90 degrees to the crack front and I'm not sure I see it. The clutch cable pulls in such a way as to close the crack. The bolt in question also serves to pinch that side together, thus tending to keep the crack closed.
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    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Nice graphics

    You could drill and tap a hole along your green line and repair that. Kinda like a kick starter root canal.
    OM
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    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    As an aside, isn't there a "valley" in the splines? If there is, I was just thinking that the only way you would lose your clutch arm is if the bolt was no longer sitting in that valley. Therefore if you're really concerned with over-torqueing, you could throw some light locktite on the bolt and just snug it down lightly.

    My two cents, which is more than it is worth
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    #13338 PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    As an aside, isn't there a "valley" in the splines? If there is, I was just thinking that the only way you would lose your clutch arm is if the bolt was no longer sitting in that valley. Therefore if you're really concerned with over-torqueing, you could throw some light locktite on the bolt and just snug it down lightly.

    My two cents, which is more than it is worth
    Absolutely. If the bolt stays in the groove the arm will not fall off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guenther View Post
    This is a 'Thumper' - single cylinder. I guess a 2007 F650GS Dakar.

    The bolt in question is a M6X30-8.8. I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt in the BMW Service and Repair DVD. A typical setting for this type of bolt in aluminum is 10Nm.

    The clutch cable clearance is set at the clutch lever on the handlebar.

    F650GS-Dakar Clutch web.bmp
    That's interesting. The method I saw was to install the clutch arm so that there is 47 to 52 mm between the boss that the cable sits in and the inside of the lever. It's sort of like measuring cable length on an airhead or K model. I am using a piece of coat hanged cut to 50mm. I'll try what you have there and see how that comes out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Just to offer up a different website, which suggests the 10-12 Nm value...that's just about 7 ft-lbs or 88 in-lbs...might need a special torque wrench to be accurate down that low.

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ed-Torque.aspx

    I can't imagine that getting this torqued is too big of a concern...although you said the previous lever cracked. The sump bolts on my Airhead take about the same torque...I just put a 10mm socket on a screwdriver nutdriver and tighten them...can't hardly over torque that! I'd snug it up then check it again after the first or second ride. Still tight? Maybe check again after a few rides. But usually tightening just a bit after the bolt stops moving is probably good enough! YMMV!

    Is there any kind of wave washer under the head of the bolt?

    Update...now that I see the crack you reference...I think there must be some other explanation for the crack in that direction. There must be a force which pulls 90 degrees to the crack front and I'm not sure I see it. The clutch cable pulls in such a way as to close the crack. The bolt in question also serves to pinch that side together, thus tending to keep the crack closed.
    There are quite a few anecdotal reports of them cracking when you try to take them off after they have been torqued once or twice. That's what happened to me. I have an inch pound torque wrench that I can use for that. Same one I use on those airhead oil pan bolts. No wave washer. What you suggest is the way I was planning to do it though. Either a short 1/4" ratchet, or a nut driver if I have an 8mm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Omega Man View Post
    Nice graphics

    You could drill and tap a hole along your green line and repair that. Kinda like a kick starter root canal.
    OM
    That's not mine. Mine is in two pieces. That's just a picture I found for someone that asked for a photo. That's actually a classic - pre-04. Mine is slightly different. It's my wife's bike, but I broke it. :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    As an aside, isn't there a "valley" in the splines? If there is, I was just thinking that the only way you would lose your clutch arm is if the bolt was no longer sitting in that valley. Therefore if you're really concerned with over-torqueing, you could throw some light locktite on the bolt and just snug it down lightly.

    My two cents, which is more than it is worth
    Great point. Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Absolutely. If the bolt stays in the groove the arm will not fall off.
    That sounds perfect.

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