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final drive torque figures

31310

31310

The Blue Max
Can someone provide a torque figure for the pivot on the final drive? My Haynes manual recommends 145 Nm, Clymer 74ft lb which I did. In the past, after unbolting it from the Paralever, it dropped without having to use brute force. After torqueing to the Clymer value, it does not budge so that prompted my question.
 
The BMW DVDs for my 2018 R1200GS and for the older (2013) RT both call for 100nm at that location, with a new micro-encapsulated bolt being used. 100nm would be just a hair under 74lb-ft; 145nm would be a huge increase in torque and could account for the drive not pivoting freely, which it certainly should.

Best,

DeVern
 
31310 said:
Can someone provide a torque figure for the pivot on the final drive? My Haynes manual recommends 145 Nm, Clymer 74ft lb which I did. In the past, after unbolting it from the Paralever, it dropped without having to use brute force. After torqueing to the Clymer value, it does not budge so that prompted my question.
Click to expand...

Something is not right. From what I saw with the stack up of parts is that there is no actual compression of bearings only inner "races".
 
Haynes manual for 2010 - 2012 shows 100 Nm for Final Drive pivot bolt.

Swing arm left hand bearing pin locknut is 145 Nm.

Is it possible you looked at the wrong spec? It is certainly something I would do...
 
chrisinsc said:
Something is not right. From what I saw with the stack up of parts is that there is no actual compression of bearings only inner "races".
Click to expand...

I'd agree. The suspension cannot work properly unless the FD, paralever link and driveshaft can all move up and down freely, regardless of how tight the various bolts might be. Maybe there is a missing washer?

pivot.jpg
 
Torqued the left side bearing pin to 107ft lbs. as per Clymer, Haynes states 145Nm, made sure the swingarm moved normally before reattaching final drive. Just rechecked pivot to see the O-ring has disintegrated. Not sure how much that may or may not effect movement. Thanks for posting guys. Gary.
 
lkraus said:
I'd agree. The suspension cannot work properly unless the FD, paralever link and driveshaft can all move up and down freely, regardless of how tight the various bolts might be. Maybe there is a missing washer?

View attachment 84589
Click to expand...

So, part#2 in the lower diagram captures the inner race of the sealed bearing against the paralever.

Part #4, the smaller diameter part goes into the paralever and then the flat of the step seats against the paralever. The bearing there is not captured laterally and is slightly held by the felt washer #5.

Only thing I can think of is if the sealed bearing is not pressed all the way in but that would be solved by torquing the bolt I would think and if the circlip is there then its in all the way. Is the sealed bearing frozen?
 
31310 said:
Torqued the left side bearing pin to 107ft lbs. as per Clymer, Haynes states 145Nm, made sure the swingarm moved normally before reattaching final drive. Just rechecked pivot to see the O-ring has disintegrated. Not sure how much that may or may not effect movement. Thanks for posting guys. Gary.
Click to expand...

Which pivot point was binding on your first post ?The swing arm assembly or the pivot for paralevel by the final drive? If swing arm not holding the pivot pin while tightening the lock nut can cause the swing arm bearing to bind.
 
lkraus said:
I'd agree. The suspension cannot work properly unless the FD, paralever link and driveshaft can all move up and down freely, regardless of how tight the various bolts might be. Maybe there is a missing washer?

View attachment 84589
Click to expand...

Nice diagrams btw larry. You know if part#2 on the top diagram was not there perhaps that would definitely be a problem. As I recall it is part of the stack of parts which are captured (cant think of a better way to say it).

I would think that if 100nm of torque were applied without it then the sealed bearing would have to be damaged.
 
Thank you to all who posted a reply but problem solved. After viewing the posted parts diagram, I went to the actual BMW parts diagram. I had misinterpreted the repair manual pictures and installed the spacer ring on the wrong side of the final drive unit. Torqueing the pivot bolt forced the spacer ring against the bearing and prevented the unit from pivoting as per normal. The parts diagram pointed me in the right direction and the final drive now moves properly.
Lesson learned is not to attempt repair work after a long work day and you are tired. After a good nights sleep, I unbolted the final drive and almost immediately saw my error. Funny how being rested eliminates many dumb ass mistakes. :blush. Thanks again fellows for helping. Gary.
 
31310 said:
Thank you to all who posted a reply but problem solved. After viewing the posted parts diagram, I went to the actual BMW parts diagram. I had misinterpreted the repair manual pictures and installed the spacer ring on the wrong side of the final drive unit. Torqueing the pivot bolt forced the spacer ring against the bearing and prevented the unit from pivoting as per normal. The parts diagram pointed me in the right direction and the final drive now moves properly.
Lesson learned is not to attempt repair work after a long work day and you are tired. After a good nights sleep, I unbolted the final drive and almost immediately saw my error. Funny how being rested eliminates many dumb ass mistakes. :blush. Thanks again fellows for helping. Gary.
Click to expand...

Glad you fixed it! Thanks for letting us know the outcome.
 
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