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Thread: Jedz - 1996 R1100R Build / Modification Documentation!

  1. #1
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Jedz - 1996 R1100R Build / Modification Documentation!

    Greetings!
    After about 16 hours in the shop going through the bike thoroughly and also giving the ole gal a proper diet and a final drive fix the R1100R is up and running very well!


    Modifications include:
    1. 7/8 Handle bar (FZ1) conversion with headlight tidy(-6lbs)
    2. Instrument cluster swap (-6.5lbs)
    3. Exhaust Swap (-23lbs)
    4. Carbon Canister delete (-3lbs)
    5. Final Drive pivot bearings removed and replaced with Brass (packable) bushings
    6. Broken ABS Unit Removal (-7lbs)
    7. LED upgrade on tail light and headlight
    8. Total weight reduction of 45.5lbs!!!


    I also performed these routine maintenance items as I wanted to be sure all was set and complete
    1. Engine oil change
    2. Gearbox oil change
    3. New Spark plugs
    4. Rear / Final Drive Oil Change
    5. Brake System Flush, Bleed and Fluid Change
    6. Oil and Air Filter Change
    7. Spline, bushing and bearing repack of rear swingarm assembly. (although it looked like it was done recently)


    Things that I want to get done in the next 1000 miles
    1. Tires (would love some feedback on which way to go!)
    2. Brake Pads
    3. Replace broken headlight bucket
    4. Detail clean and grime removal
    5. R1100RT oil cooler install (remove the 2 side mounted oil coolers)
    6. Do something to the seat... integrate a bench type seat if I can...


    Pics too:
    20210706_175915.jpg
    20210706_175930_2.jpg

    So I'll keep this thread alive as I continue to modify and clean up my R1100R. Cheap old bike that was pretty haggard when I got it. Runs so much better now. The weight reduction is astonishing really. The bike accelerates and handles much better, the FZ1 handlebar makes the bike feel like a proper roadster under me. Slow speed has become much easier.

    Hope you enjoy my journey! I'll document as it occurs.

    Best,
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  2. #2
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    I have a 94 1100 RS. Would be interested in how to do an exhaust change that saves that kind of weight. Good job!

  3. #3
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Replaced the headlight bucket... Not going to go into details on how to do that as i't just 2 bolts and put the new bucket and lens on. I do have to say that I do like the look of the bike now with the new headlight on it.

    Midnight rides prove that mated with a LED bulb the yellow lens is more than adequate for the job, I dare say it shines better than the previous head light bucket that was unable to provide a straight beam pattern like this new lens and bucket. Honestly this was an inexpensive EBay unit. I did have to cut a hole in the back to ensure good fitment around the key switch on the top of the triple tree (or whatever we call it for BMW).

    20210710_145930.jpg
    Headlight bucket chosen, I will be installing a windscreen as well...
    20210711_005232~2.jpg
    Beam pattern on low, hard to actually see but it does quite well, you can see anything reflective shows up quite easily.
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  4. #4
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Elephant Ear Oil coolers - delete

    So I decided to get rid of the elephant ear oil coolers as they detract from the visual appeal of the engine.

    So I went out to my parts yard and found an oil cooler of a Trophy 900 I picked up a while ago and have been using for parts since. I pulled the cooler off and decided it would work well as an oil cooler as the total surface area of the cooler was nearly equivalent to the oil coolers on the bike to begin with.

    20210711_120637.jpg
    Next we had to go about removing the old oil coolers, this is simple as it's 4 bolts that easily come out after you remove the gas tank shrouding. The oil coolers are also simple rubber tube mounted so I retained the sock oil lines coming out of the motor for the new oil cooler.
    20210711_120924.jpg
    With the elephant ears out I placed them side by side the new oil cooler to show a comparison of the 2 units. I have to say the 2 oil cooler design definitely is over engineered... I'm surprised BWM just didn't install a single cooler to begin with, also those end tanks are big for coolers... Time to modify the new cooler to fit.
    20210711_121427.jpg
    So I decided to get the core out of the frame and guard. I deep cleaned off the road grime and I than loosened the mounting bolts (19mm) and let them be loose so I could mock the cooler on the bike.
    20210711_122038.jpg
    On the bike I was having issues with the front stabilizer knocking at the cooler also the cooler was pressed firmly against the plastic accessory belt assembly cover.
    20210711_122258.jpg
    To add room I decided to install the oil cooler "backwards" so that I could utilize the threaded rivets and use bolts to create the gap required so air could easily pass through the cooler and it would be suspended above the accessory cover. I than put back on the bike and installed. I utilized stainless hose clamps as mounts for the cooler to the brackets I made. One side used a second clamp to hold fast to the oil line and it's mount to the left and used the lower mounting bolt and spot on the right. The cooler is in there securely. There is a slight offset as to make clearance for the front end dampener.
    20210711_130835.jpg

    With the oil cooler secure and I satisfied that it was snug and not going anywhere I then cut the lines on the cooler and installed them to the bikes oil lines. tightened down the clamp with a 6mm wrench, tightened down the 19mm banjo bolts on the cooler and then fired the bike up to check for leaks. Success!
    20210711_131453.jpg

    After that I than rode for a quick 5 mile loop to vary RPM to see if increased pressure would cause an leak, it did not. The next day I rode over 100 miles and check for leaks, no leaks. Bike seems to be running just fine, Not any hotter than before so I guess the clean up was a success!
    20210711_135749~2.jpg
    I am really happy with how this turned out and it really improves the look of the bike IMO.
    Next project will be some heated grips I think. I also want to make a custom seat that is more flat and more of a bench like instead of the odd front scoop and rear slope design... The stock seat is ok... I think a higher bench would me I sit higher on the bike but I would be able to slide back and forth easier, offering some more riding positions. I do intend to do a big ride or two on this bike so I would like to have it ready! Currently the stock seat is not ideal for me.

    I also need to put some new tires on.

    Keep you guys posted!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  5. #5
    Left Coast Rider
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    Just an opinion here but, from your supplied pictures, it appears you're not going to get much air flow through your new oil cooler. Not only is it's access to clean air restricted by the front wheel but, more important, there is nowhere for the air to exhaust once it reaches the cooler. As such, you may have defeated its purpose.

  6. #6
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    Just an opinion here but, from your supplied pictures, it appears you're not going to get much air flow through your new oil cooler. Not only is it's access to clean air restricted by the front wheel but, more important, there is nowhere for the air to exhaust once it reaches the cooler. As such, you may have defeated its purpose.
    I'll let you know if I have any issues... But it was in the 90' F on my 100 mile day and the bike was running as warm as it usually does. No pinging, no excessive oil consumption or other signs of overheating. I was thinking of installing a temp gauge to see what the operating temps are... I think the main cooling areas of the bike are the cylinder heads themselves which now have increased air flow over them.

    Cheers,
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  7. #7
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by jedz View Post
    No pinging, no excessive oil consumption or other signs of overheating. I was thinking of installing a temp gauge to see what the operating temps are...
    Its highly unlikely your bike will overheat solely due to your new cooler location. However, it would have been interesting to know the oil temps prior to, and subsequent to, the relocation.

  8. #8
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Perhaps a mud flap or fender extension to keep the cooler protected from tire-flung debris, and the pipes clean?

    You can raise the front of the seat slightly to help "flatten" it overall; here's a picture of a good spacer to put under the front seat mount (it can be whatever thickness you want, and some people just stack washers); you will need longer screws. You can also shave down the rear bumpers (if you have them) just a hair.
    Seat Spacer.jpg

  9. #9
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    Its highly unlikely your bike will overheat solely due to your new cooler location. However, it would have been interesting to know the oil temps prior to, and subsequent to, the relocation.
    Something worth trying if I get a day off to run an experiment for sure, jedz moto video? My guess would be the teampature will be in the ball park. I'm looking at different gauge options right now. BC1100S you do have me biting my nails just a bit... The Cylinders and cylinder head are probably the biggest and most effective heat sinks on the engine. Quite a good design to dissipate heat.

    Best!
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jedz View Post
    BC1100S you do have me biting my nails just a bit... The Cylinders and cylinder head are probably the biggest and most effective heat sinks on the engine. Quite a good design to dissipate heat.
    I wouldn't get TOO worried. Your bike is severely understressed however it is air/OIL cooled. Your bike has 2 oil circuits - one for lubrication and one for cooling. There's a reason BMW included an oil cooler, in your case 2 coolers, and ensured adequate air flow on these bikes.

    PS The best way to measure the effectiveness of the cooler is to measure the inlet temp versus the outlet temp.

  11. #11
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Perhaps a mud flap or fender extension to keep the cooler protected from tire-flung debris, and the pipes clean?

    You can raise the front of the seat slightly to help "flatten" it overall; here's a picture of a good spacer to put under the front seat mount (it can be whatever thickness you want, and some people just stack washers); you will need longer screws. You can also shave down the rear bumpers (if you have them) just a hair.
    Seat Spacer.jpg
    Great! Thanks for the resource here!

    I'll play with the seat some, it just puts you n one position. I rode it home when I bought it sight unseen from MD (480 miles) and it was comfortable enough. If I could slide that would be awesome, big reason why my Bonneville T120 is so dang comfy!

    Cheers!
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  12. #12
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Just to be clear ... are you aware that the seat is height-adjustable? When you take off the front section, there is a little bar to pull on that will change which notch the seat fits into; higher also moves it back a tad, but many of us don't like the factory tilt or the overall softness.

    ALSO - Go over to the R18 threads in this forum and have a look at what Enzo did with his cooler (protection screen).
    Last edited by Pauls1150; 07-16-2021 at 12:26 AM. Reason: added Enzo note

  13. #13
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Just to be clear ... are you aware that the seat is height-adjustable? When you take off the front section, there is a little bar to pull on that will change which notch the seat fits into; higher also moves it back a tad, but many of us don't like the factory tilt or the overall softness.

    ALSO - Go over to the R18 threads in this forum and have a look at what Enzo did with his cooler (protection screen).
    So the bike is setup for Vermont Mountain Gap running and occasional long days, long gone will be its touring ventures fair to say the bike spends more time getting detail cleaned than ridden, that's ok. I would like to keep it for a long time. So I'm not concerned about debris and grime hitting the oil cooler, if it's bad the bike can be taken off the roads. I will put the plastic shrowd back on and it should be just fine.

    As for the seat it's not the height but the shape that really is not great. I have foam coming in and I'll be re shaping and re covering it to make a more flat bench like seat instead of the lock you in seat design of the current seat.

    Rolling project!
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  14. #14
    Registered User jedz's Avatar
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    Engine DEEP CLEAN and paint.

    Today I decided to just give the engine a deep soak with some heavy duty degreaser, a brush and also decided to paint the valve covers and hand paint than seal with 2K clear coat the spark plug covers.

    While I was at it I deep degreased the front swing arm, fork rubes and attempted to get clean the rims up... I also installed a fly screen and I think it really ties the front end together now...

    So after a few hours of elbow grease and paint I would say the engine came out pretty dang good!
    20210718_153815.jpg
    20210718_153803.jpg
    20210718_153853.jpg

    Unfortunately the rims are really corroded. Appears they are aluminum! Which is great but I'm half tempted to buy new rubber and just repaint them after getting the oxidation scars out silver or maybe another color?

    New seat vinyl and foam is on the way. I also will be brass plating the bolt hardware! All of it is very rusted so I will be taking it off, cleaning it than brass plating it! We will see how it works out...

    Keep you guys posted!
    Jedz
    1996 BMR R1100R - The Vermont Roadster () 2018 triumph Bonneville T120 - The Ole' Bonnie
    2016 Yamaha Tracer 900/FJ-09 - The Fazer 900 Jedz Edition () 2021 Honda Monkey - Just Bananas!

  15. #15
    Neglected Bike Adopter
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    Quote Originally Posted by jedz View Post
    Unfortunately the rims are really corroded. Appears they are aluminum! Which is great but I'm half tempted to buy new rubber and just repaint them after getting the oxidation scars out silver or maybe another color?
    I'll trade you for a set of 3-spoke aluminum wheels!


    I had never thought of hand-repainting those plastic spark plug covers. That looks pretty neat. That might be a good option for all my sun-bleached parts. What paint did you use?

    If you're plating your metal fasteners and already have the electrical setup for home electroplating, you should strongly consider electrolysis as a method of rust removal. It can literally convert certain iron oxide compounds back into elemental iron instead of simply removing them like abrasive or chemical rust removal, and if you're plating at home you already have the means to do it.

    What are you planning to do about the seat foam and vinyl? I'm thinking about recovering my seat with bulk marine vinyl and would like to hear what your ideas are.
    Owner of the saddest 1997 R850R you ever did see.

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