• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

signs of falty alternator/regulator 1976 R60/6

bikebombs

Member
Hi folks, yesterday my alternator light stopped coming on with switch on or motor running. Load test good. No increase in voltage with motor reved to 2,000 RPM. I say alternator. Any ideas please. Cheers
 
This will require some checking rather than starting to throw money at it!! Could be a voltage regulator...could be bad battery. Check out Snowbum's somewhat lengthy but in depth article on alternator troubleshooting.

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/trbleshootALT.htm

Motorrad Elektrik has (I think they still have them in stock) a nice handy booklet for troubleshooting the charging system.
 
Rotor or brushes! Can easily be checked with an Ohmmeter. Details needed on how or what to measure?

/Guenther
 
Check the bulb first.

Good idea. But the most common cause is an open rotor. Use an ohm meter to measure from one slip ring to the other. This test should be a few ohms. If it reads infinity it is open. Check from each slip ring to the steel body of the rotor. This should be INFINITY.

Edit: I fixed it.
 
Last edited:
Good idea. But the most common cause is an open rotor. Use an ohm meter to measure from one slip ring to the other. This test should be a few ohms. Check from each slip ring to the steel body of the rotor. This should be Zero ohms.

Zero ohms or infinity?
 
Faulty alternator / regulator signs.

Thank you everyone for taking the time. I talked to the guru Shail, my mechanic. He believes after my exploration that the problem lies with the rotor. I have a battery booster to travel from Vancouver Island to Shail's Motorcycles 200 miles away.If I can start I can get there. Cheers
 
Bulb

Going from memory, once you have the front cover off, remove both leads to the rotor and short them together. With the key on, if the bulb lights, it's the rotor. If it doesn't light, its the bulb.
 
Hi folks, yesterday my alternator light stopped coming on with switch on or motor running. Load test good. No increase in voltage with motor reved to 2,000 RPM. I say alternator. Any ideas please. Cheers

Going from memory, once you have the front cover off, remove both leads to the rotor and short them together. With the key on, if the bulb lights, it's the rotor. If it doesn't light, its the bulb.

I agree with RPGR90s. Did you verify that the indicator bulb in the instrument cluster is good? I think that is part of the charging circuit and it will prevent charging when burned out; might be worth a look. :scratch
 
Airhead weakness

One of the biggest weaknesses of the airheads is the bulbs for the warning light and the sockets they fit into.

The plastic instrument gauge cluster is not difficult to take apart to get to the bulb and socket. Be careful when putting it back together to go easy on tightening the various screws holding it together, they don't like being over tightened.

A lot of people have ditched the bulbs and the sockets entirely and have gone to the Katdash system.

Open rotor would be my next quickest thing to check. It doesn't need to be removed to check. Unplug the two brush connectors and you can measure continuity through the brushes, the rotor all in one shot. This will give you an idea if the brushes are making proper contact as well as showing if the rotor is open internally. St.
 
Maybe Voltage Regulator

When I installed the OMEGA 600 charging system, it came with a larger capacity VR. Within 10,000 miles, the RT's charging indicator needle began to lag, and did not act as it did initially. This happened one day before I was to leave on a trip. The only spare part I had on hand was the original VR, so I installed it. The problem was fixed, though the needle no longer comes up as high as it initially did with the OMEGA install. That was about 10,000 ago, and all is still well. So I bought another OEM VR, as a spare.

My point to the OP, don't discount the VR as the possible problem.
 
Thank you everyone for taking the time. I talked to the guru Shail, my mechanic. He believes after my exploration that the problem lies with the rotor. I have a battery booster to travel from Vancouver Island to Shail's Motorcycles 200 miles away.If I can start I can get there. Cheers

Good luck. I hope you make it
 
Back
Top