Building a tool kit for my R1200RT

bobinri said:

I’ve just bought 2014 1200RT, and I think it’s time for me to have a torque wrench, rather than my own “best judgment”, which is what I’ve used on previous bikes. I’d prefer 3/8 inch drive… is there one you would recommend that could cover most simple maintenance needs on this bike?

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I have been very happy with my Craftsman Torque wrenches. I don't drop them or treat them roughly and I always zero before putting away. But this reminds me I probably should get them all calibrated.

Jay

Tool Rolls?

So, this past weekend I found two bolts missing that hold on my Wunderlich crash bar on side of the bike. I went over the bike and found other loose fasteners. I have been putting together the tools for a kit and have a 1/4-inch ratchet a collection of sockets, torx, hex, and trying to see what open/box end wrenches I will add. As I accumulate this menagerie of tools, I am now wondering what you all use to hold them all and where you carry them on your bikes? I like the idea of a tool roll but just don't know which to get. any suggestions?

motor10 said:

So, this past weekend I found two bolts missing that hold on my Wunderlich crash bar on side of the bike. I went over the bike and found other loose fasteners. I have been putting together the tools for a kit and have a 1/4-inch ratchet a collection of sockets, torx, hex, and trying to see what open/box end wrenches I will add. As I accumulate this menagerie of tools, I am now wondering what you all use to hold them all and where you carry them on your bikes? I like the idea of a tool roll but just don't know which to get. any suggestions?

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At the rally in Great Falls I looked at a nice tool roll by Mosko, the pricing seem high but good quality. https://moskomoto.com/collections/motorcycle-tail-bags-accessories/products/pinner-tool-roll. If you don't have extra tools around I'd consider buying https://smile.amazon.com/CruzTOOLS-...w&qid=1625666450&sprefix=cruzt,aps,231&sr=8-2

mm:rolf

ccolwell said:

I believe I opened it more than 'slightly.'

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:rolf

bobinri said:

I’ve just bought 2014 1200RT, and I think it’s time for me to have a torque wrench, rather than my own “best judgment”, which is what I’ve used on previous bikes. I’d prefer 3/8 inch drive… is there one you would recommend that could cover most simple maintenance needs on this bike?

Click to expand...

I've been pleased with my three Harbor Freight click-type torque wrenches. I've tested them repeatedly (see YouTube) and always found them to be accurate within 2%. Actually, the 1/4" and 1/2" sizes arrived within 1%, and I adjusted the 3/8" (again, see YouTube) from 2% to about 0.75%. Similar Snap-On models are only guaranteed to be within 4%. None have changed in the ten years or so I've been using them. Their readings match my 3/8" beam wrench and my 1/2" digital torque adapter. At $20 bucks each, I'd suggest you get all three to cover any foreseeable needs.

motor10 said:

I did a search and only found one thread for tool kits and it was for air-heads but wanted more info. I am putting together a tool kit to carry onboard. I am not 100% sure of what to put together so I figured I would ask.

For those of you with wet-heads, what tools do you carry and how?

Thanks in advance.

Jay

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Yeah, you don't need to carry anywhere near the tools that you did for an airhead. On those bikes you could actually repair a number of things and get going again. An example would be the diode board, alternator rotor, points on the early airheads, bulbs and so on. On the newer 1200 and 1250s there's much less you can fix on your own and when you have to, you actually need fewer tools. I've seen a lot of good suggestions on this thread like the torx set that I'm going to add. I already carry an air compressor & patch kit at all times and I have a NOCO lithium starter battery (similar to anti gravity) that I take on long trips. On the newer bikes, if your battery fails in such a way that it cannot provide any voltage you won't get the bike to run after a jump start. The lithium battery starter can fill in for the battery to get you home. Paul Glaves has a little experience with this. Finally, I take my GS-911 WiFi with me.

taran1900 said:

...On the newer bikes, if your battery fails in such a way that it cannot provide any voltage you won't get the bike to run after a jump start. The lithium battery starter can fill in for the battery to get you home. Paul Glaves has a little experience with this. ...

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This might work, but it is probably a bad idea. I've have had a few of these jump starters, and all the manuals are sprinkled with warnings to disconnect the jump pack quickly once the engine starts.

The Micro-Start XP-10 manual, for example, includes these instructions:
This jump starter is not designed
to be used as a replacement for a vehicle’s battery.

- Do not use as a replacement battery for vehicles.
- Do not leave the XP-10 connected to vehicle. Remove within 40 seconds of
starting vehicle.

- Make sure to remove the product from the vehicle battery within 40 seconds
of Jump-Starting

6) Start your vehicle, leave it running. Once the vehicle starts disconnect the
Clamps and XP-10 within 40 seconds of starting. DO NOT LEAVE ATTACHED

-DO NOT LEAVE THE MICRO-START UNIT CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE!


I think the issue is that once the engine starts, the alternator is supplying charging current to the battery pack that it is not designed to handle. Which is why this warning is also included:
NEVER USE ANY OTHER CHARGERS THAN THOSE PROVIDED. FIRE,
EXPLOSION, PERSONAL AND PROPERTY DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.

lkraus said:

This might work, but it is probably a bad idea. I've have had a few of these jump starters, and all the manuals are sprinkled with warnings to disconnect the jump pack quickly once the engine starts.

The Micro-Start XP-10 manual, for example, includes these instructions:
This jump starter is not designed
to be used as a replacement for a vehicle’s battery.

- Do not use as a replacement battery for vehicles.
- Do not leave the XP-10 connected to vehicle. Remove within 40 seconds of
starting vehicle.

- Make sure to remove the product from the vehicle battery within 40 seconds
of Jump-Starting

6) Start your vehicle, leave it running. Once the vehicle starts disconnect the
Clamps and XP-10 within 40 seconds of starting. DO NOT LEAVE ATTACHED

-DO NOT LEAVE THE MICRO-START UNIT CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE!


I think the issue is that once the engine starts, the alternator is supplying charging current to the battery pack that it is not designed to handle. Which is why this warning is also included:
NEVER USE ANY OTHER CHARGERS THAN THOSE PROVIDED. FIRE,
EXPLOSION, PERSONAL AND PROPERTY DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.

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Yes they say that. And yes, I ignored it to get a few miles home. And yes, there is a big diode in the wiring harness used to connect the battery pack to the bike which in theory prevents the alternator overcharging or even just charging the battery pack.

Do I recommend doing this? Nope! Did I do it? Yep! Should anybody else? Their call!

Additional question

So I went to Home Depot and purchased some Craftsman tools to start to put together a tool set. I have gotten 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14mm sockets, extension and drive bit adapter, A ratcheting screwdriver with assorted torx, philips and slot headed bits. Folding metric combination folding hex and torx key set. the end goal is to have some tools on hand to tighten fasteners before the loosen and fall out and do some possible minor repairs.

One of the tools I need is a spark plug socket. I may keep it in the tool kit but if not then I certainly need one for my tool chest in my garage. I know it needs to be a very deep thin walled socket but am unsure of which size the 2018 R1200RT takes. Anyone know off hand? 14mm or 16mm maybe? How long (deep) does the socket need to be?

motor10 said:

One of the tools I need is a spark plug socket. I may keep it in the tool kit but if not then I certainly need one for my tool chest in my garage. I know it needs to be a very deep thin walled socket but am unsure of which size the 2018 R1200RT takes. Anyone know off hand? 14mm or 16mm maybe? How long (deep) does the socket need to be?

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It's 14 mm.
I thought a thin wall socket was required but when I use it there appears to be plenty of room for the socket.
Maybe thin was required on the pre liquid cooled bike.
Anyone know?

I carry a toolkit from SBV Tools.

https://sbvtools.com/?wcmlc=USD#