2008 K1200S Troubles

I was a member for several years, dropped my membership although always reading the forum as a guest. Now a member again hoping for some help with my 2008 K1200S. Bought used in late 2009 with 3,000 miles. Now 82,000 miles. It is a great bike. Love it. She never failed until earlier this year. A confusing story, but I can supply fill as required. I have full spread sheet of service documentation.

I scheduled brake fluid replacement and coolant replacement with Iron Horse BMW in Tucson AZ for April 6, 2021. I live in Prescott which is 3-4 hours north, but I heard they were excellent. Bike running fine. One week prior to the appointment I rode 10 miles for a visit and upon starting the bike for return I heard a loud metallic clack. The bike ran but rattled like the chain tensioner had failed. I increased RPMs to 3,000 and it smoothed out. Rode home 10 miles and it was normal above 3,000 rpms.

Trailered to Iron Horse and asked for additional attention to the tensioner. Two weeks later they finished work. Brake and coolant work completed. They replaced the tensioner and said a test ride was successful. I trailered to Tucson. Started the bike and thought I heard another loud clack, but it smoothed out and I trailered home. Next day or so I took an 80 miles uneventful start and ride. Happy.

Skin surgery for cancer intervened. Scalp and wrist. Scalp hasn't healed fully. No helmet. No riding. Started the bike up for slow ride up the street and back. Didn't hear anything abnormal upon startup, but it was running odd. Too noisy. Not missing, but not the old familiar sweet sound. Called Iron Horse and sent short video with sound. They said to insure all cylinders were firing once at normal temperature. I sprayed water high on the exhaust pipes and all appeared perfect. Their suggestion.

Iron Horse said bring down to the shop and they'll try to fit it into the work load. I called they said hopefully next week. I called again hopefully next week or the week after. I trailered down and picked up the bike. $66 for the attention it had received during the month. Sort of none. Sounded a bit padded but I was quiet and paid. They were probably relieved to have it gone. They pushed it on trailer for me and I headed home yesterday. 117 degrees through Phoenix.

I don't know exactly what do do next. Need advice. I'm thinking I need a project, but valve train? I did a clutch and rear seal on my 2002 K1200RS but this is maybe digging into top end unknown. I was hoping for water pump. Noise seemed louder there...

When the dealer replaced the tensioner did they also do a valve check and verify that the cam timing was still correct? This sure sounds like a case of the cam chain jumping a tooth.

Best,
DeVern

No. They indicated after the tensioner replacement, all was well. When I picked up the bike yesterday they seemed to be leaning toward top end [see quote below. Radiator never drained thus no further move toward the valves. After a month I expected more.

Yesterday they wrote on the $66 receipt:

"Confirmed abnormal engine noise at idle. Let bike warm up. Put a load on driveline and noise went away. Adjusted balance shafts. Bike sounds normal at idle but when when it's around 5,000 rpm there is a loud noise. It sounds like it may be in the top end."

I don't know when they made these tests and guesses. I don't know how you adjust balance shafts. BYW BMW installed a jump guard 04/08/2011. 6,513 miles.

i would certainly be willing to dive in and remove clutch cover, radiator, coils, plugs and valve cover. Then I would need advice as to what to look for and where to look. Surely there are wedge folks out here that could tinker a my expense.

I think you are at the point of needing the factory service DVD and the instructions therein for doing a valve clearance check and checking cam alignment. Getting that far in requires removing some bodywork and pulling the radiator, which to be properly refilled requires a vacuum coolant installation device so you don’t leave any trapped air pockets in the labyrinthine coolant channels. When you’re in that far you can also check the tensioning sliders on the cam chain to make sure you don’t have a broken or worn-out slider.

Anyway, the first three things I’d check would be valve clearance (which should reveal a bent valve if there is one), cam alignment and timing, and cam chain tensioning slippers. The latter two are pretty straightforward but if you find a bent valve that would require a whole ‘nuther level of disassembly, deeper than what I’ve gone into on the wedge-k.

Best,
DeVern

Thanks DeVern. I've been in deep enough to change plugs and clutch plates. I could go deeper into valves although it would be new ground. I have a DVD manual from BMW. I'm 76 and not done riding. I might be done being my own mechanic.