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Thread: Hall Effects Sensor, Sensor

  1. #1
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    Hall Effects Sensor, Sensor

    Question on the homemade Halls Effect Sensor electricalcircuit testing box. I used the Illinois BMW You Tube directions to source and construct the tester for setting the timing correctly with all the parts listed. My results didn't come out as pretty, as I don't have much experience with soldering small wires, but it appears functional. I hooked it up to my new replacement sense and noticed without it being actually installed, just to check continuity and find at the present, both the TDC and 180 egree diodes light up at the same time. I sustect that has something to do with it not being installed and unrestricted power is flowing through both diodes since they both come off the same power line. At least I know all my joints are active in spite of my shaking hands trying to hold and drip solder at just the right time.😀. Bike has 57000 miles and running strong but plan on being pro active in this type of maintenance. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or direction.

  2. #2
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by weschmann View Post
    Question on the homemade Halls Effect Sensor electricalcircuit testing box. I used the Illinois BMW You Tube directions to source and construct the tester for setting the timing correctly with all the parts listed. My results didn't come out as pretty, as I don't have much experience with soldering small wires, but it appears functional. I hooked it up to my new replacement sense and noticed without it being actually installed, just to check continuity and find at the present, both the TDC and 180 egree diodes light up at the same time. I sustect that has something to do with it not being installed and unrestricted power is flowing through both diodes since they both come off the same power line. At least I know all my joints are active in spite of my shaking hands trying to hold and drip solder at just the right time.😀. Bike has 57000 miles and running strong but plan on being pro active in this type of maintenance. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or direction.
    Without metal in the gaps both led's will light.
    You can slip a small metal ruler in each gap to switch the led's on and off.

    FYI: The top sensor controls the Spark, the bottom the fuel injection pulse.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  3. #3
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    Without metal in the gaps both led's will light.
    You can slip a small metal ruler in each gap to switch the led's on and off.

    FYI: The top sensor controls the Spark, the bottom the fuel injection pulse.
    Thanks GS. My confidence is beginning to grow stronger that I'm capable of changing this out. A whole new learning curve challenge for me with this older bike. Just what I needed at 70 years young.

  4. #4
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    Just wanted to post my thanks for the support and help in changing out the Halls Effect Sensor. A major milestone for me tear a MC apart and install an electrical component and actually get her running again. Woo ho! What really surprised me was the homemade timing box worked as billed too. So I know I got her timed correctly. Started right up and purring along so now it's on to the front fork seals next. Right side started leaking on the ride home from the Oz rally so 27 years isn't bad for the seal, I guess.

  5. #5
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    congratulations. I haven't gotten around to the Hall yet. I just did the seals and brakes on my K1100LT, and now I need to do the seals on my R1100RT. , which is supposed to be easier. Both are new bikes to me. I recently sold a R1100RS and a K75S. I'm getting on in years and the tourers are more comfy to me.

    The only issue I had with the K's seals was getting a stuck snap ring out.It rusted in. A little blaster, small screwdrivers and picks, and perseverance got it out. I have a lot to learn about the R, as I've not had many oilheads , and it was many moons ago since I've had an airhead. I've had several K's though. Mostly 75's.

    You may want to consider Rancho RS1952 Rubber Shock Boots , $30 on flea bay, which the inmates at Motobrick swear by. Keeps the crap from compromising your seals. Easy to install while you've got your shocks apart. I got 2 sets for my girls.

  6. #6
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastbay View Post
    congratulations. I haven't gotten around to the Hall yet. I just did the seals and brakes on my K1100LT, and now I need to do the seals on my R1100RT. , which is supposed to be easier. Both are new bikes to me. I recently sold a R1100RS and a K75S. I'm getting on in years and the tourers are more comfy to me.

    .
    Thanks Eastbay for the suggestion. I agree the touring style bike fits my style better now than my previous adventure bikes. Actually enjoying the tinkering so the perfect challenge for a warm summers afternoon. I have brake pads ordered today so by this weekend I should have this puppy to a baseline that I can confidently start going for longer rides. I'm not too worried about the fork seals leaking as its the original 27 year old seal that was leaking and probably from the rubber just getting hard after all these years. I won't be around in another 27 year so not going to be too concerned about it leaking again. It is as easy to change out on the 94 RS as they say. I did it from the bottom, pulling the lower stantion out. Had more trouble removing the front fender than anything. Have fun with your new additions. Cheers!

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