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Cool garages and cool garage ideas!

lee

Debbie's Servant
I suspect this requirement is due to the fact that the silencer must be moved out of the way in order to remove the back wheel. Hard to do if that joint is seized.

Yes that ball shape muffler clamp allows the muffler to be pivoted out of the way during a tire change.
I never bothered to lube that clamp on our bikes.

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Lee, how can you stand working in that cramped and crowded garage? And, correct me if I'm wrong, do you wheel the bikes through that double door in the winter? If yes....:thumb
 
Lee, how can you stand working in that cramped and crowded garage? And, correct me if I'm wrong, do you wheel the bikes through that double door in the winter? If yes....:thumb

Most of the time the bikes are parked in the addition through the sliding door.
We can park both cars and the bikes inside.
To get the bikes out I have to move one car.

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KRS garage.jpg

addition.jpg

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Last week I decided to repaint the main garage space.

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I need to learn how to epoxy the floor.
The first year we lived here I used garage floor paint after a good scrubbing but it still started to bubble up the first winter with all the moisture from melting snow and ice.
 

You win the Innovator Of The Year Award!

By the way, the absolute only solution to stopping the floor "paint: from bubbling from having melting snow on it is.... don't drive in snow. I never solved the problem in Fairbanks, but maybe with a high tech epoxy covering that is put on well prepared concrete. In the videos I've seen of pros applying it to old concrete, they grind a 32nd-16th of an inch off the top before application.
 
In the videos I've seen of pros applying it to old concrete, they grind a 32nd-16th of an inch off the top before application.

Looks like I better leave it to the pros. Our house was built in 1969. Many years of oil and dirt.
 
The first year we lived here I used garage floor paint after a good scrubbing but it still started to bubble up the first winter with all the moisture from melting snow and ice.

I'm sure that's caused you many years of sleepless nights. :D
 
You win the Innovator Of The Year Award!

By the way, the absolute only solution to stopping the floor "paint: from bubbling from having melting snow on it is.... don't drive in snow. I never solved the problem in Fairbanks, but maybe with a high tech epoxy covering that is put on well prepared concrete. In the videos I've seen of pros applying it to old concrete, they grind a 32nd-16th of an inch off the top before application.

Diamond grinding the surface should be done even with new concrete if you are putting down top end commercial epoxy.
That said, on my first shop I acid washed the new concrete and used Rust-Oleum two part epoxy paint. Was still perfect 15 years later when I moved.
 
I worked for company that sold epoxy floor coatings. We never recommended grinding the floor unless there was a previous coating that was a mess, or the floor was rough. Just degrease, acid etch and degrease again and you are good to go.

I put down epoxy on my garage floor 25 years ago and it has held up well. but it needs a recoat.
 
I worked for company that sold epoxy floor coatings. We never recommended grinding the floor unless there was a previous coating that was a mess, or the floor was rough. Just degrease, acid etch and degrease again and you are good to go.

I put down epoxy on my garage floor 25 years ago and it has held up well. but it needs a recoat.

Thanks for that info.
 
Thanks for that info.

You can rent a carbide scraper that mounts to a standard floor buffer. Any good rental place should have them. It will scrape off any old floor coating, and any little bumps. It will not level the floor.

https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1765/1500696/floor-buffer-carbide-tooth-driver/

Applying epoxy isn't much different from any other paint job. The better the prep, the better the results. My garage had been used for auto repair for a few years, by me, before I decided to lay down some epoxy. All the greasy spots got soaked several times with mineral spirits, (paint thinner), then cleaned up with kitty litter, then a few washes with a good degreaser, then a couple etchings with muriatic acid, (this stuff is nasty so be careful and have the good air circulation. Then follow that up with a couple more degreasings to neutralize the acid. Let it dry good and apply like you would with any house paint. Mask the edges and edge in with a small brush and then use a roller on the main part of the floor. You may need a second coat. Some guys use and old pair of gold spikes to walk on the first coat and not leave foot prints. Generally you need to apply the second coat before the first sets up , right after it stops being tacky. If you wait too long you might need to wait a couple weeks, sand it lightly, wash, and apply the second coat.
 
You can rent a carbide scraper that mounts to a standard floor buffer. Any good rental place should have them. It will scrape off any old floor coating, and any little bumps. It will not level the floor.

https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1765/1500696/floor-buffer-carbide-tooth-driver/

Applying epoxy isn't much different from any other paint job. The better the prep, the better the results. My garage had been used for auto repair for a few years, by me, before I decided to lay down some epoxy. All the greasy spots got soaked several times with mineral spirits, (paint thinner), then cleaned up with kitty litter, then a few washes with a good degreaser, then a couple etchings with muriatic acid, (this stuff is nasty so be careful and have the good air circulation. Then follow that up with a couple more degreasings to neutralize the acid. Let it dry good and apply like you would with any house paint. Mask the edges and edge in with a small brush and then use a roller on the main part of the floor. You may need a second coat. Some guys use and old pair of gold spikes to walk on the first coat and not leave foot prints. Generally you need to apply the second coat before the first sets up , right after it stops being tacky. If you wait too long you might need to wait a couple weeks, sand it lightly, wash, and apply the second coat.

Do you add a little grit so the floor is not too slippery when wet?
 
Do you add a little grit so the floor is not too slippery when wet?

If you do that it makes brooming or mopping the floor a real pain.

I have worked in two shop areas that had clear epoxy coating on the floors, neither had sand in the mix as they were intended to be mop-swept. They were slippery only when wet, and even that toned down after some use. Both floors had the same treatment, about 60 days after the pour so most of the moisture had come out. Acid wash, degreasing wash, two rinses, 48hr drying time with fans, then two coats epoxy. The only damage they evidenced was from dragging equipment across the floor, and that was easily retouched with some sanding, cleaning, and spot-coating.

I plan on using the same coating in my next garage/shop.

Best,
DeVern
 
If you do that it makes brooming or mopping the floor a real pain.

I have worked in two shop areas that had clear epoxy coating on the floors, neither had sand in the mix as they were intended to be mop-swept. They were slippery only when wet, and even that toned down after some use. Both floors had the same treatment, about 60 days after the pour so most of the moisture had come out. Acid wash, degreasing wash, two rinses, 48hr drying time with fans, then two coats epoxy. The only damage they evidenced was from dragging equipment across the floor, and that was easily retouched with some sanding, cleaning, and spot-coating.

I plan on using the same coating in my next garage/shop.

Best,
DeVern

I was worried too much sand would hurt when kneeling working on the bikes.
Even with the bare concrete I need to be very careful to not have a foot slip out when moving a bike on a wet floor.
 
I worked at a warehouse where part of the floor was sanded, it was a pain to clean, hosing it off was about the only way to get it clean. My garage is plain epoxy, not even any flakes. My next one will be plain epoxy, no flakes or sand.

As for it being slippery, well I suppose it is worse than clean dry concrete, but is is far from being a problem. The only time I notice it being slick is when I do woodworking and there a saw dust on the floor, then it is slick!
 
I worked at a warehouse where part of the floor was sanded, it was a pain to clean, hosing it off was about the only way to get it clean. My garage is plain epoxy, not even any flakes. My next one will be plain epoxy, no flakes or sand.

As for it being slippery, well I suppose it is worse than clean dry concrete, but is is far from being a problem. The only time I notice it being slick is when I do woodworking and there a saw dust on the floor, then it is slick!

:thumb
 
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