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Thread: Eastern Beaver PC-8 vs Centech AP-2

  1. #1

    Eastern Beaver PC-8 vs Centech AP-2

    Background: I was very impressed with Brook Reams electrical upgrade on his R100RT. So much so, that I'm considering doing something similar with my '89 R100RT.

    I've looked on line and realized there are alternatives to the Eastern Beaver PC-8 auxiliary fuse box that Brook used. In particular, the Centech AP-2 caught my eye. Like the PC-8, it has the ability to accommodate both constant and switched loads (through the use of an additional relay) but it has fewer fuses. The overall current capacity is the same (60 Amps, way more than I need). Unlike the PC-8, which is essentially custom built in a one-man shop in Japan, the AP-2 is stocked by several retailers in the US. Price, even including the relay and shipping, is a bit less for the AP-2, but not enough to influence the decision.

    Question for the group: has anyone had any experience with the AP-2? Any compelling reason to pass it up in favor of the PC-8?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    FWIW, I have the Centech AP-1 on one bike and it has been a solid unit. But when I needed to wire accessories onto the next bike I switched to Fuzeblock, a product originally designed and produced by a rider:
    https://www.fuzeblocks.com/

    On the FB unit switched/unswitched decisions can be made or reversed by just repositioning a fuse, which is handy when mods are needed from the original installation.

    Best,
    DeVern
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST 1984 R80 G/S-PD 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C 2010 K1300GT 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  3. #3

    PC-8 vs AP-2 vs Fuzublock

    Thanks for the input. I did consider the Fuzeblock, I really like the flexibility it offers and the idea of the internal relay which significantly simplifies installation. The downside is that it has only half the total capacity of the other two products, i.e. 30 A vs. 60 A, and the most you can put on each circuit is 10 A. Since my heated gear (jacket/pants/gloves) would already use up over 10 A and require a 15 A fuse, that got the FZ-1 out of the running for me. Otherwise it would have been the #1 contender.
    M.

  4. #4
    Every heated gear manufacturer says go directly to the battery. They all have a battery connection with a fuse.
    Gator

  5. #5

    Heated Gear

    I agree. That's what they all SAY. I suspect that's because they don't want to be responsible for Joe the shadetree mechanic running substandard wire and starting fires. Also, they don't want to mess with CANbus issues, which are irrelevant on airheads.
    But suppose that:
    1. The Aux Fuse Panel is rated for 60 A total and I use the correct fuse size (15 A) for the individual circuit dedicated to the heated gear
    2. I size the wire so that it exceeds the current capacity of the heated gear manufacturer's own wire and is about the same length
    3. I have not one, but two in-line fuses (the one that feeds the Aux Fuse Panel (30 A) and the 15 A dedicated heated gear outlet fuse
    If all these conditions are true, can anyone explain why I would be LESS safe with an Aux Fuse Panel than going directly off the battery?
    I don't mean this to be a challenge, it's a genuine curiosity of mine.
    With apologies for going off topic. I think this is a good question for the group.

  6. #6
    Registered User lkraus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gator View Post
    Every heated gear manufacturer says go directly to the battery. They all have a battery connection with a fuse.
    Gator
    I think their intent is to discourage tapping into (and probably overloading) an existing circuit. The various auxiliary fuse panels provide a "direct to battery" connection so that each accessory can have its own circuit with a suitable fuse and wire gauge.
    Larry
    2006 R1200RT

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