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Thread: Flat Rear Tire

  1. #16
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    Reassembly.....

    SPP-

    Something not mentioned and worth noting is being mindful in your reassembly process when putting the wheel back on the bike. While not usually possible on the side of the road, axle nuts are something I always set with a torque wrench. Doing that will also give you sense of how much to tighten the nut when a torque wrench isn't available.

    It is also important to seat the axle shoulder and compress the bearing and spacer stack before tightening the axle pinch bolt.

    Definitely worth practicing in the shop with your road tool kit as was mentioned previously, and worth reviewing the procedure in your manual.

    ECJ

  2. #17
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    Definitely planning on using a torque wrench for re-install in my garage. Should have wheel back with new tire on Friday.

    Quote Originally Posted by ecjjce View Post
    It is also important to seat the axle shoulder and compress the bearing and spacer stack before tightening the axle pinch bolt.
    Not 100% sure what this means...

    SPP

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by slowpokepete View Post

    Not 100% sure what this means...

    SPP
    This applies to a front wheel or double sided swingarm.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #19
    Registered User 6322's Avatar
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    What it means is if youíre replacing the front wheel for what ever reason, the last thing you tighten is the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. This allows you to set the preload on the wheel bearings as you torque the axle. Then tighten and torque the pinch bolts.
    Gary Phillips - #6322
    Wildland Firefighter, Retired, Riggins, ID
    Heartland Moto Locos BMW Riders
    '77 R100/7 Dirt Hack, '83 R80ST, '85 K100RS w/EML, '93 K1100LT, '00 R1100RS

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6322 View Post
    What it means is if youíre replacing the front wheel for what ever reason, the last thing you tighten is the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. This allows you to set the preload on the wheel bearings as you torque the axle. Then tighten and torque the pinch bolts.
    Thanks...totally get this.

    SPP

  6. #21
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_F View Post
    You could use the Anonymous Book to see if someone near you has a trailer and would be willing to help you transport your bike to Max.
    It's not clear that OP is actually an MOA member.

    But, there is surely an MOA local chapter nearby, probably filled with guys that are willing to help and have experience.

    Yes, it's the 21st century and everything is online, but forum help is a poor second to help from a friend and BMW club member. There are other benefits as well.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    It's not clear that OP is actually an MOA member.
    I am a member.

    Curious as to why that is not known?

    SPP

  8. #23
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    Entered my member number in my signature.

    Will that help?

    SPP
    Member # 222067

  9. #24
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=lkchris;1252018]It's not clear that OP is actually an MOA member.

    Ah, if someone is posting on the forum, they are a member.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  10. #25
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Help

    I agree with the comments about road side help. I am more than willing to help anyone on a motorcycle of any kind on the side of the road and have done so in the past. I am listed in the anonymous book, something I carry on my bike every ride, now easy to access on the phone.

    Sadly, I no longer have a truck or trailer.

    I am also willing to help out in my garage or point to my friend's airhead shop.

    Hey, at least you only had a mono shock to change a tire on, try changing a tube on a city sidewalk with a twin shock equipped with a ride off stand, fun I hope never to have to do again, LOL. St.

  11. #26
    Registered User 6322's Avatar
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    Steve, a trick we learned long ago was to use a strap to secure the center stand, ride off or otherwise, to the cross over pipe at the header pipe, remove the front wheel, loosen the rear wheel, lift the rear of the bike and roll the rear wheel out. The things you learn that you hope you never have to do again, filed away for future use!
    Gary Phillips - #6322
    Wildland Firefighter, Retired, Riggins, ID
    Heartland Moto Locos BMW Riders
    '77 R100/7 Dirt Hack, '83 R80ST, '85 K100RS w/EML, '93 K1100LT, '00 R1100RS

  12. #27
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    Gary, I've heard of this trick before. But a stock 4.00x18 rear tire will never just "roll out". It takes some work to work the rubber past the pinch point of the drum brake housing and the left side swing arm. If one does this process, be very careful that the bike doesn't tip over sideways or pulls back on you.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  13. #28
    Kawa Afterthought weschmann's Avatar
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    I'm a new 94. 1100 RS owner who just removed the rear wheel to pull a leaking shock. I've installed and removed tires and Spooner changed on multiple models over the years but must admit I was clueless how to get my rear wheel off, even in the garage. Ended up pulling the caliper, and removing the connection to the rear muffler to get it to flex just enough to allow the tire to scoot out. Someone commented to just deflate the tire, which in this case was completely flat. So I'm guessing just deflating the tire doesn't allow for the needed clearance. Wouldn't want to be doing those shennagains on the side of the road to pull a tire. Think I'll update my towing insurance.😀👍

  14. #29
    Registered User 6322's Avatar
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    On the airheads, just deflate the tire, if it isnít already flat, and wait to inflate it until itís back on the drum. On the oilhead, yes, remove the rear caliper. Work smarter not harder.
    Gary Phillips - #6322
    Wildland Firefighter, Retired, Riggins, ID
    Heartland Moto Locos BMW Riders
    '77 R100/7 Dirt Hack, '83 R80ST, '85 K100RS w/EML, '93 K1100LT, '00 R1100RS

  15. #30
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Tip

    I have found the only way I can get the rear tire off of my 84 R80RT is to lay the bike on its side and pull the wheel out. Of course this is only when I am not at home and have the lift, and such to do it properly.

    Thank God, I haven't had many flats in the years I have been riding, it is a pain. I give BMW credit for going to the Mono shock system and the one side swing arm, makes things a heck of a lot easier. Of course they also have now gone tubeless even better yet.

    My friend just had a massive Yamaha cruiser bike in to his shop for two new tires. I think it took him over an hour just to get the rear tire off and that was in a shop with proper tools. So, things could always be worse. St.

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