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Thread: '84 RS forks question

  1. #16
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Nasty stuff

    I understand the concern about damaging an o-ring, to be honest, I don't thing the stuff you used on it can be any worse than 30+ years of all kinds of weather mine have been subjected to.

    I know, this is a nosy know it all kind of thing on my part but as I said, I just can't find any part number for an o-ring for the fork sliders. Maybe I am blind, I just hate like heck for you to get it apart only to find out you didn't need to take it apart and possibly damaged something that is NLA.

    I am sitting home today while work is being done on the house, so I have a bit of time to delve into the fork assembly. St.

  2. #17
    Registered User ezwicky's Avatar
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    I think (and hope) that you are right. I sent a message to the airheads list just now, hopefully between this forum and the airlist I will get an answer.

    Thanks for your help btw, I don't consider it nosy at all. I really appreciate the input.
    BMWMOA #182796

    '76 R90/6
    '80 R100RS restoration project

  3. #18
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Brook

    I have found Brook Reams will answer private messages sent to him via this forum, he is a lot of help.

    Sorry, I just have not been able to find anything relating to removing the bottom of the sliders in any source of mine.

    Good luck with your search. It will be very interesting to see what you find, don't forget to post it. St.

  4. #19
    Registered User ezwicky's Avatar
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    I have already talked to Brook about this (via email last week). I think this might have something to do with mine being an '84 and his being an '83. RealOEM shows a difference between the two.
    BMWMOA #182796

    '76 R90/6
    '80 R100RS restoration project

  5. #20
    Registered User PAS's Avatar
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    The 84 and 84 forks are the same. Dont remove the bottom plate o-ring it isnt available from BMW and it's an odd size.

  6. #21
    Registered User ezwicky's Avatar
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    from Tom Cutter via the airlist, just in case it helps anybody with the same issue on this forum. BTW I am going to follow Paul Glaves' suggestion before I do Tom's fix. So far the first one is not leaking, with 5-weight oil and vigorous plunging of the damper, slider in vise. I'll let it sit overnight, repeat a few times in the morning, then do the other slider.

    "That bottom piece is not supposed to be removed. Since you have blundered in there, There IS a chamfer inside that takes the o-ring that BMW does not offer.

    I have the replacement circlips and a fat bag of the o-rings in stock. You will also need a tube of Loctite 579 to re-seal and secure that plug when you re-install it. That stuff is $$.

    To remove the plug, use the fork tube as a tool from the inside. Heat around the outside of the slider outside the plug, (slip removed, obviously) and tap the fork tube against the inside gently, which will dislodge the plug. "
    BMWMOA #182796

    '76 R90/6
    '80 R100RS restoration project

  7. #22
    Registered User STEVENRANKIN's Avatar
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    Now I know

    Now I know why I never bothered to try to remove it. LOL, St.

  8. #23
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    I pulled the bottom plugs out of a set last year for powdercoating. Those plugs are very difficult to remove, with the sealant that the factory used. I got them out pretty much like Tom said; I used a lot of heat and basically beat the plugs out from the inside. Once I cleaned up the sealant the reassembly wasn't nearly as bad.

    Yes, they were not intended to be disassembled and BMW does not sell the O-ring.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  9. #24
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezwicky View Post
    I agree Steven. I just worry now that *if* there is an O-ring, maybe I corrupted it my heat and PB Blaster cycles. The when I put it back together I could have a leak.
    I think the most important thing is to be sure you get that circlip reinstalled and fully seated. On mine, once it was in place, I had to push the circlip into the groove to get it fully seated- it didn't want to just snap in (it was super tight coming out also), so I made sure to double-check them before reinstalling the sliders. Based on what Tom and Anton said, I doubt you'll have a leak if you didn't get that plug to budge (seeing as it apparently requires heat to remove). But, I think that circlip being secure is the safety net ensuring the plug doesn't loosen over time while riding.
    Jim (MOA 83200)
    '78 R80/7 (Anastasia) and '84 R100RS (The Millennium Falcon), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '97 Nissan XE PU (Mighty Mouse)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas, baby!)

  10. #25
    Registered User ezwicky's Avatar
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    I am thinking the same way you are. That sealant is doing its job.

    Thanks for the tip on the circlip seating, I will make sure the new one is in there well-seated.
    BMWMOA #182796

    '76 R90/6
    '80 R100RS restoration project

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