Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Clutch Cable Snapped - 2000 R11RS

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    73

    Clutch Cable Snapped - 2000 R11RS

    Driving to work this morning and my clutch cable snapped - it wasn't pretty... I've got a new one ordered but am wondering if I neglected something that would have caused this. I recently checked the free-play in the clutch handle which seemed good. I had the right distances for the barrel adjustor (I think I'm calling it the correct name). I just want to know that I'm not missing something so when I put the new one in, it won't happen again - at least not for a long time. Also, any tips on the new install that would make life easier? Seems pretty straight forward in the Clymer Manual. Thanks in advance.

    PXL_20210526_002057415 (1).jpg

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    22,493
    I've had one break on my Airhead...one really has to concentrate in order to shift without the clutch!! Mine broke up nearer the lever. At that point on the Airheads, there is a ferrule in the lever which is supposed to rotate as the lever is pulled. Mine had gotten dirty and the ferrule wasn't rotating, and the cable was having to bend each time I pulled the lever. You can only do that so many times!

    In your case, the break is much farther down the cable. It almost seems like to me that the sheath of the cable makes a relatively sharp turn just as it enters into the handlebar perch. Also seems like the frayed cable length would match up well if you were to roughly put it back in place. I'd certainly look at that angle and try and make the sheath transition more gentle.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    I replaced a clutch cable a few years ago, that only lasted a few thousand miles. I later learned that the cable barrel, has a slot, which should be oriented, so that when the lever is pulled, the cable fills that slot. It is easy to not notice the slot, when installing the cable. Since replacing the cable, Iíve put over 20k miles on the bike, without a problem.
    2000 R1100 RS
    2009 Jaguar XK

  4. #4

    It needed a break

    Seriously though it may have just been its time to go. As a tip to install the new cable I would get the gas tank and other items out of the way and install the new cable before you remove the old cable being careful to follow the old cables path exactly. tie it down and anchor it where the original one is. After your new cable is in and properly adjusted cut the end off the broken cable and gently pull it out as you feed it through the various obstructions.

  5. #5
    The cause is actually simple. The end of the cable is attached to the "barrel" which is in the hole in the lever. When the lever is pulled the barrel is supposed to rotate slightly in the hole in the lever, keeping the cable strands straight. To allow this to happen the barrel and the hole in the lever need to be periodically cleaned and lubricated with a good water resistant grease. Otherwise, when the lever is pulled the barrel doesn't rotate. When the barrel doesn't rotate the cable strands flex (bend) slightly right at the barrel. Over time they flex enough that the strands bread. Eventually the last stand breaks.

    Under most riding conditions cleaning and lubricating the cable a couple of times a year is sufficient. Certainly it should be part of a "major" 12,000 mile service.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  6. #6
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    22,493
    Paul, isn't the barrel still in the lever as seen in the picture? And the break is several inches away from that. The bending you're talking about would have been much closer to the lever/barrel. That was certainly the situation when my cable broke on me way back when.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Paul, isn't the barrel still in the lever as seen in the picture? And the break is several inches away from that. The bending you're talking about would have been much closer to the lever/barrel. That was certainly the situation when my cable broke on me way back when.
    Yes. I missed that in the photo. So, it would seem that a kink or tight bend in the cable sheath a couple inches from the lever might be the cause. Absent excessive flexing these cable can go 100,000 miles or more.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  8. #8
    Left Coast Rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    4,239
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    To allow this to happen the barrel and the hole in the lever need to be periodically cleaned and lubricated with a good water resistant grease. Otherwise, when the lever is pulled the barrel doesn't rotate. When the barrel doesn't rotate the cable strands flex (bend) slightly right at the barrel. Over time they flex enough that the strands bread. Eventually the last stand breaks.
    It has been over 30 years since I owned a bike with cable clutch actuation - until I bought an Aprilia last year. I was pretty impressed to note that both ends of the cable have plastic bushings which allows the barrel to rotate while not causing any friction/wear on the levers themselves. I give these bushings the odd drop of lube "every once in awhile" - which I believe is the official factory recommendation.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-07-2014, 02:23 AM
  2. Clutch Cable
    By layton in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-15-2012, 01:42 PM
  3. Throttle Cable Setup 2000 R1100RS
    By pschuyler in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-04-2009, 06:51 PM
  4. Clutch Cable Snapped While Parking
    By tkdan235 in forum Airheads
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 11-12-2008, 09:58 PM
  5. K75/2 clutch cable
    By cayuse60 in forum Flying Brick K-bikes
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-10-2008, 01:43 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •