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1994 r1100rs panier rivets
- Thread starter 318iii
- Start date
Take a look at the Max BMW on-line parts fiche. I have a 94 R1100RS also. If you mean the rivets for the hinge or other parts, see the fiche -
46_0295 - SYSTEM CASE/SINGLE COMPONENTS
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51676&rnd=09082020
These rivets are shown as item #2 in the diagram below -
46_0295 - SYSTEM CASE/SINGLE COMPONENTS
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51676&rnd=09082020
These rivets are shown as item #2 in the diagram below -
You know that BMW stands for "Bring My Wallet", don't you?
They look like a “pop-rivet”. There are many kinds of pop-rivets including- aluminum, steel, plastic head and stainless. If you have an example of an old rivet assembly, and it still looks good, it was probably stainless.
The stainless are more expensive and more difficult to “install”. A well stocked hardware store will have a good assortment but maybe not stainless. Short term, almost any rivet of the correct diameter and length will work.
OM
I also added to your title. Good luck.
The stainless are more expensive and more difficult to “install”. A well stocked hardware store will have a good assortment but maybe not stainless. Short term, almost any rivet of the correct diameter and length will work.
OM
I also added to your title. Good luck.
gtrider
52184
https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/system-of-measurement~metric/
You’ll need to know the diameter, length, and material type of the OEM rivet. Most times when I’ve worked on BMW luggage I’ve had to go with the BMW rivets as I couldn’t find equivalents that had sufficient reach.
Best,
DeVern
You’ll need to know the diameter, length, and material type of the OEM rivet. Most times when I’ve worked on BMW luggage I’ve had to go with the BMW rivets as I couldn’t find equivalents that had sufficient reach.
Best,
DeVern
dieselyoda
Active member
Drill to STD./Imperial. Got to local nut/bolt place get a bag of what you want and use an off the shelf pop-rivet gun.
Or, get the OE rivet and then find a metric pop-rivet gun!
Or, get the OE rivet and then find a metric pop-rivet gun!
gsaddict
Pepperfool
You don't need the rivets.
Here is how I have fixed many cases:
Drill out the rivet heads only.
Pull off the old locking mechanism
Take your new mechanism and tap all the holes 10-32unf thread (the tap hole size is correct)
Get some 10-32 x 1/2" Stainless steel screws and assemble using RTV silicone under the head.
You can also use a #10 nylon washer for sealing as well.
If you want to reuse a functioning lock mechanism, just pull the headless rivets out backwards thru the holes with a pair of wire cutters from behind.
They will pull thru if the head has been removed completely
Example of holes threaded
Attachments
you can get stainless at any marine store, like West .
gsaddict
Pepperfool
The stock rivets are 4mm aluminum with a blind end to prevent the ingress of water.
Using a stainless rivet would make future disassembly very difficult
