pglaves
#13338
Lee,
Thank you for the quick reply to my question. Sorry to keep asking for answers, but I trust your knowledge base.
I've taken a few shorter rides on the bike at this point, about 15 miles each. I'd have to say that the fork action is really not harsh. In fact when I do the same thing you suggest, locking the front brake and rocking the front, mine does go up and down a few inches also. And coming to a stop, the front doesn't dive much, just slightly. Maybe it's working like it should. Wish I knew someone around here with a k75 to compare it with. I wouldn't mind a bit more movement over slight bumps, but like someone said, it's not going to perform like my oilhead did. Maybe I'm being too sensitive.
Due to the movement of the sliders when I rock it, I didn't think the forks were bent. But I could be wrong. I would like to test them, but I assume that to do that I would need to separate the wheel, fenders, etc. and then take all the parts out of the tube so the sliders could mover freely. Is that right or is there an easier way to do the slider test?
I did reset the rear shock to the firmest setting before taking it out. It was a firmer ride. I don't know if I noticed a difference with the front's performance, but overall it seemed good.
Thanks again for the help, Lee.
If it hasn't already been done drain the fork oil. Then install new fork oil precisely to the volume specified for each leg. If perchance there is as little as 10cc more oil than specified it will reduce dive. On several bikes I have added fork oil to reduce the air column which then compresses faster.
Also, it is possible an owner has installed a longer than stock preload spacer. Make sure that is stock too.