Chain Woes - NOT

I was prepping our two G310GS bikes for traveling this summer. Among tasks I decided to replace the chains. So with 25,000 miles on the original OEM chain on my bike I proceeded to replace the chain. I removed the old chain; made sure I had the same number of links on the new chain; and put the new chain on the bike. I didn't move the axle or adjusters at all and the new chain went right on and, just like the chain I removed, it was in specification for chain adjustment. So much for all that pesky chain adjustment needed - NOT.

Now I do know that once a chain starts to wear/elongate it does so progressively quickly. But at 25,000 miles the old chain had not elongated any perceptible amount.

I replaced the chains with DID XRing Gold chains. We shall see how these compare with the OEM chains after the next 20 or 25 thousand miles.

Just out of curiosity, I would have been tempted to keep using the old chain, at least on one of your bikes.

PGlaves said:

I was prepping our two G310GS bikes for traveling this summer. Among tasks I decided to replace the chains. So with 25,000 miles on the original OEM chain on my bike I proceeded to replace the chain. I removed the old chain; made sure I had the same number of links on the new chain; and put the new chain on the bike. I didn't move the axle or adjusters at all and the new chain went right on and, just like the chain I removed, it was in specification for chain adjustment. So much for all that pesky chain adjustment needed - NOT.

Now I do know that once a chain starts to wear/elongate it does so progressively quickly. But at 25,000 miles the old chain had not elongated any perceptible amount.

I replaced the chains with DID XRing Gold chains. We shall see how these compare with the OEM chains after the next 20 or 25 thousand miles.

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Those that complain extensively about how bad, how much trouble chain drive are not going to be happy to read this.
OM

lkraus said:

Just out of curiosity, I would have been tempted to keep using the old chain, at least on one of your bikes.

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I was. But our summer travels will soon include a trip from Kansas to the rally in Montana and back. And I didn't really want to be messing with a chain somewhere during those 2,500 to 3,000 miles. Not after 25,000 miles already on the chain. I would have been pushing 30,000 miles by then so decided to decide that 25K was enough.

Paul, did you peen over the master link, use one of those new fancy master links or use the “spin/pressure” tool?
TIA
OM

Getting gold links is enough reason to change any chain.

I just bought my first bike with a chain in many years. 2013 F700GS with 7,776 miles on it. Annie has always had at least one bike with a chain on it, so I remain familiar with maintaining them. The more I learn about chains the less I worry about them and the longer they last.

With LC drive shafts seeming to develop U-joint issues anywhere after 30K miles a chain seems quite reasonable. JSNS

Omega Man said:

Paul, did you peen over the master link, use one of those new fancy master links or use the “spin/pressure” tool?
TIA
OM

Click to expand...

The chains came with clip style master links in the boxes. I did not use them. I bought rivet-style DID master links. I used my chain tool to set the side plates and then to spread the tips of the master link pins. O rings and grease applied, of course.

PGlaves said:

The chains came with clip style master links in the boxes. I did not use them. I bought rivet-style DID master links. I used my chain tool to set the side plates and then to spread the tips of the master link pins. O rings and grease applied, of course.

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Last I was aware, over 50hp, a riveted master-link was called for. Under 50hp, clip style ML was fine.
OM

Omega Man said:

Last I was aware, over 50hp, a riveted master-link was called for. Under 50hp, clip style ML was fine.
OM

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Probably true from a chain stress standpoint although with the sideplate in place I don't see why that matters. But unless it is an emergency I refuse to use clip type links. We have had bikes "throw" chains due to clip type master links coming off on three occasions, once even with the application of RTV to supposedly capture the clip. Two times were on a trip to and from New Mexico and my bike tossed the chain on Friday in El Paso and Voni's did it on Sunday on I-10 coming home. And those two chains had been installed by different people and had been on the bikes for more than 5,000 miles so I don't blame operator error or infant mortality for either case. Another was in Montana on US 89 about halfway between Browning and Kiowa. In this case I had a new chain I had just bought with me and installed it beside the road with a clip style link.***

But as soon as we got to Kalispell I went to a MC shop and got a rivet style link installed.

One big issue that has been avoided is that sometimes a chain coming off knocks a hole in the engine case. Sometimes a rear wheel lockup is possible. So I use rivet style links.

Also, when we were touring in Africa I didn't throw the chain but did notice that the clip was missing. The tour operator did not have a spare link or chain. The sideplate was still in place so I did a figure-eight with safety wire in place of a clip which worked fine for the rest of the two months we were there.

*** Sidenote about the one in Montana: We stopped at the BMW dealership in Sturgis, SD because I had cracked the faceshield on my helmet and needed a new one. While the parts guy was installing the new shield Voni asked me if I had a spare master link with me. I said no. Instead of just a master link I bought a new chain with the correct number of links for my F650 Dakar, with a master link in the box of course. Eight hundred miles later the chain got tossed into the weeds so I installed the new chain.