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Airhead Clutch Operation Issue '91 GSPD

L

leafman60

Member
My '91 R100GSPD is exhibiting a noticeable shudder when the clutch lever is pulled or released. This only happens after the engine has reached operating temperature. When cold, the clutch has a nice, light action when releasing and engaging the clutch. When hot, the clutch operates but the action seems as if it is rubbing somewhere inside the clutch. It is not as smooth as when cold. It almost seems as if something is rubbing and interfering with the smooth operation of the pressure plate. This is not due to anything with the cable assembly. When hot, I can use a wooden stick to operate direction on the clutch arm behind the transmission and I can feel this interference.

Any ideas from anyone as to what could be the problem ??
 
When was the last time the transmission was pulled and the splines lubed?

Best,
DeVern
 
Sticky clutch lever

leafman60 said:
My '91 R100GSPD is exhibiting a noticeable shudder when the clutch lever is pulled or released. This only happens after the engine has reached operating temperature. When cold, the clutch has a nice, light action when releasing and engaging the clutch. When hot, the clutch operates but the action seems as if it is rubbing somewhere inside the clutch. It is not as smooth as when cold. It almost seems as if something is rubbing and interfering with the smooth operation of the pressure plate. This is not due to anything with the cable assembly. When hot, I can use a wooden stick to operate direction on the clutch arm behind the transmission and I can feel this interference.

Any ideas from anyone as to what could be the problem ??
Click to expand...

I had a '93 RT that did the same thing. I found that the nylon material based throw out bearing was incorrectly machined and increasing it's diameter when hot so that it would drag inside the bore. I had mine machined down a few thousandths and that fixed the problem.

I believe BMW came out with this updated part, but I would inquire to be sure. 23 13 1 464 167

At least something to consider.
 
The transmission was pulled by a reputable shop to fix the circlip issue about 500 miles ago (6 months). A new "upgraded" bushing was installed along with a new rear main oil seal just a preventative measure.

.
 
I don't remember this behavior before my transmission work. It's not very bad. Most people may not notice but I do. When hot, the clutch rod seems to hang up slightly during its action. Still works but feels a little faltering. What is the "upgraded bushing" the shop told me they installed???


.
 
Counerfeit Parts?

leafman60 said:
The transmission was pulled by a reputable shop to fix the circlip issue about 500 miles ago (6 months). A new "upgraded" bushing was installed along with a new rear main oil seal just a preventative measure.

.
Click to expand...
Looking on the internet I see the 'upgraded' t/o bearings (with carrier) are available several places, and at least one picture looked to be all plastic, including the bearing! So, with counterfeits of everything out there, I'd start with removal and inspection of the recently installed t/o bearing. Also, even though, with leverage, you can feel the jerky movement down at the t/o bearing arm, I'd remove, clean and lube the cable and all pivot points. If the cable is questionable at all, I'd replace it.

Do you have receipts and an itemized list of parts and maintenance tasks performed when the t/o bearing was replaced? Might wanna call the shop and talk with them.
 
How about?

Was the work done all at the shop or some by you? If all at the shop, have you contacted them to let them know there is a problem, what do they say?

If you sent the transmission out for repair and installed it yourself then there are a few things to recheck.

Is the clutch properly adjusted? What condition is the cable in? I know you just had work done but did the shop miss an old worn cable?

Did they or you install the proper throw out piston if it was replaced, is the assembly installed correctly?

Are the bolts from the transmission output to the drive shaft tight?

You or the shop that did the work should recheck the work done. If it ia a reputable shop, they will Stand behind their work and should make it right. St.
 
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