• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Neutral light slow to respond

I'm no help on the neutral switch issue (haven't had it) but you should be able to pull in the clutch lever and start it.
 
Welcome to the forum! I'd check the grounds to the wiring. Get a good circuit diagram and find the sensor and clean the contacts.
 
When I see this I would sit on the bike and run it through first/neutral a couple of dozen times and see if the next attempt works as it should. Not sure of the configuration on that bike but it’s frequently a pressure ball that has gummed up.
There are some really good Oilhead mechanics here on the forum that may be able to give you more in-depth advice.
And- Welcome to the forum!
Gary
 
Sluggish or no neutral switch actuation is a known issue with Oilheads. It is generally caused by a little bit of oil seeping into the switch body, causing oily contacts. Sometimes it just takes a few minutes of sitting to restore contact and sometimes shifting into and out of neutral wipes some oil off the contacts. The real cure is to replace the switch located at the back of the transmission.

That said, the bikes still should start by pulling in the clutch, even if in gear. On the 1100s the sidestand also needs to be up - at least that is true of the R1100RS models and I think but am not positive of the RTs.

If you have a wonky neutral switch and the clutch switch should fail you are more or less dead where parked. There are some cut-and-twist wires work arounds but they are a last resort.
 
I had this issue with my 2000 R1100RS. I was not able to start the bike by pulling in the clutch lever, would only start if the neutral light illuminated.

Before I replaced the switch, I notice that if I clicked, first to second a few times, it eventually would illuminate.

Big job to replace the switch. I had clutch done at the same time.

Bike will not start until neutral light appears, which sometimes takes a very long time.
 
My 1100RS exhibited the same issue, it got considerable better when I switched to a synthetic 75-90 oil like Motul brand.
 
.... The real cure is to replace the switch located at the back of the transmission.

That said, the bikes still should start by pulling in the clutch, even if in gear. On the 1100s the sidestand also needs to be up - at least that is true of the R1100RS models and I think but am not positive of the RTs.

If you have a wonky neutral switch and the clutch switch should fail you are more or less dead where parked. There are some cut-and-twist wires work arounds but they are a last resort.

As Paul said, the lazy Neutral light switch is a known problem with the Oilheads. The original poster's problem is compounded by what sounds like a second problem - a failed clutch safety switch. To the OP: The clutch safety switch is MUCH easier to replace. Put in a new switch and you will be able to start the bike by pulling in the clutch lever. I find that if I work the shift lever up and down while still in Neutral, I can usually get the N light to light up.

Yes, Paul, the standard 1100RT setup includes the side stand safety switch - the side stand is wired into the Kill switch circuit. The bike will not start or stay running with the side stand down. There are modifications to allow the bike to run in neutral with the stand down.
 
Mine was lazy for a number of years because I was too lazy to change it.

Then there was the dreaded waterfall as when you take one thing apart, and another then another, you are changing more than just a switch.

I sprayed brak-clean up in the cavity and pressure washed it a couple times a year and it was tolerable to live with.

I changed it this winter. What else am I going to do? No hockey, the Covid, no friends over, way too much snow and freakazoid cold outside.

Took me several months and I would like to point out that I am a pro-wrench with every tool you could imagine.

If I had any ambition, I could have replaced it in less than afternoon with basic hand tools.
 
Mine was lazy for a number of years because I was too lazy to change it.

Took me several months and I would like to point out that I am a pro-wrench with every tool you could imagine.

If I had any ambition, I could have replaced it in less than afternoon with basic hand tools.

If you get that ambition, there are lots of Oilhead owners who would like to see that video.
 
Back
Top