Sometimes bicycles are crimestoppers. Police borrow bike to catch murderer.
[url]https://us.cnn.com/2020/07/04/us/biker-lends-wheels-to-atlanta-police-trnd/index.html[/url]
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Sometimes bicycles are crimestoppers. Police borrow bike to catch murderer.
[url]https://us.cnn.com/2020/07/04/us/biker-lends-wheels-to-atlanta-police-trnd/index.html[/url]
The old SHOGUN, circa 1983-
OM
My first MB was a Shogun, maybe 1988? Might have been heavy, but could take some serious beatings without suspension
[QUOTE=henzilla;1211527]My first MB was a Shogun, maybe 1988? Might have been heavy, but could take some serious beatings without suspension[/QUOTE]
I think it was $400.00 back then. That is a current picture. I need something with some sort of suspension....... and maybe a battery?:brow
OM
My first Mtn bike was a Steve Bauer Turbulence circa 1986 I think.
I'm not a morning person but Michelle talked me into getting up before the crack of dawn and riding to the lake to see the sunrise. Just an easy 26 miles total - but we were back home before 7am! It was nice and cool, too. Maybe there is something to this waking up early thing...
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In the picture above, you can see the Niterider Lumina light on Michelle's bike. I have to mount them on the fork if I don't want them to interfere with the wireless bike computers. I forgot to mention that. Some computers are OK, some aren't. Somebody didn't address EMI properly.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1211569] but Michelle talked me into getting up before the crack of dawn and riding to the lake to see the sunrise. [/QUOTE]
In 43 years Debbie has never suggested getting up early to see the sunrise :)
1983 somewhere out west.
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[QUOTE=Omega Man;1211529] I need something with some sort of suspension....... [/QUOTE]
Do you really need suspension? Where will you ride?
[QUOTE=Lee;1211593]Do you really need suspension? Where will you rode?[/QUOTE]
Too many years of being tumble dried :) has me needing more comfort. As you can see from the picture, I added a suspension seat-post. A bit better but also a bit taller.
Just so the bumps run up my spine.
OM
[QUOTE=Omega Man;1211610]Too many years of being tumble dried :) has me needing more comfort. As you can see from the picture, I added a suspension seat-post. A bit better but also a bit taller.
Just so the bumps run up my spine.
OM[/QUOTE]
Old-school mainstream chromoly frames were tough but not very forgiving, usually offering a harsh ride. There have been some major leaps in frame design and materials since 1983.
If you are primarily riding pavement and/or hard-packed trails (eg crushed gravel), you should be able to get away with a modern frame designed to absorb and dissipate bumps without transmitting all the energy to the rider. Yes, suspension shocks like seen on mountain bikes can do that, but they add a lot of unnecessary weight and complexity. :thumb
[QUOTE=Lee;1211592]In 43 years Debbie has never suggested getting up early to see the sunrise :)
[/QUOTE]
Ha! I feel a lot of empathy with how I THINK she feels in that picture. :)
We're the folks that wake up on the last day of a rally and all of the tents around us are gone.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1211633]We're the folks that wake up on the last day of a rally and all of the tents around us are gone.[/QUOTE]
I'm rarely an early riser, but yesterday, before my ride home on my annual run to the Kootenays, I was up at 5:15 local time, rolling at 5:45, and on the Galena Bay ferry at 6:30 (I was on Alberta time, so it wasn't quite as bad).
That put me back in Calgary at 2:30, time enough to sit in the back yard and have a drink with the lady in my life. The early start gave me a jump on the horrendous weekend traffic. The pack east of the Banff Park gate was rolling at 140 km. ;)
So this morning I got up at 9. :)
Discussion topic: Clips or clipless pedals? Dedicated bike shoes or sneakers?
Here is a video that cites some research that dispels at least some of the 'efficiency' myth. [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUEaN9FKGLE[/url]
I know we chatted about Speedplay pedals earlier and I have a few more observations after messing with Michelle's cleat position. I've noticed that she tends to ride toe down and her right knee tracks away from the bike frame at the top of the pedal stroke. She also may not be able to rotate her pelvis for some reason so she tends to round her back as the rides get longer. Sometimes she complains that she has some tightness in her lower back on the right side after a hilly ride.
Now keep in mind that I'm not talking about gigantic issues. These are little issues that, if we could correct them, may just make her cycling a little more enjoyable and allow her to be a little more powerful/faster. So I have been watching videos about bike fitting: particularly cleat position. My theory is that the following could help her: 1) she may have a leg length discrepancy, 2) she could benefit from using shorter cranks, 3) normal bike Q-factor (distance between the pedals) is just too wide for her. Except for the leg length thing, these are pretty expensive fixes. She is already on the shortest cranks I could easily get (165mm). I've also made that issue worse by moving her cleats back as far as I possibly can. Speedplay also allows the cleats to be moved left/right so I've moved them as close to the bike as possible to reduce Q-factor. I've also lowered her saddle to compensate for moving the cleats rearward.
I've also moved my cleats back and lowered my seat in an effort to engage my hamstrings a little more. Just a little experiment. I didn't experience any discomfort with the previous position.
Clipless pedals seem to make everything more expensive when adjusting for your body position. I don't know anyone that rides 'seriously' (meaning road/gravel, not mtb) with flat pedals so I don't know if the ability to move your foot around is 'better' for reducing niggling aches and pains.
Do any of you have experience with any of this? I'm interested in your thoughts.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1211928]Do any of you have experience with any of this? I'm interested in your thoughts.[/QUOTE]
Well, this is good news. I have Looks on my bikes and, after a couple of falls, I'm scared of them. I'm thinking of going back to cages.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1211928]
Here is a video that cites some research that dispels at least some of the 'efficiency' myth. [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUEaN9FKGLE[/url]
I.[/QUOTE]
Interesting.
I use cycling shoes or cycling sandals with toeclips and straps.
Without cycling footwear my feet hurt on long rides. I need stiff soles. Same thing when I was working, I had to wear good quality pack packing boots to keep my feet happy.
Both of us lift our feet without thinking. We rented bikes once with flats and both of us had problems so we went back and found a couple bikes with toeclips.
I also noticed I ride slightly toe down. Never asked anyone if this is bad. The toe down is a problem without toe clips.
I could learn a lot riding with you a week, but hate to see how much money I would spend after that week :)
Kurt I can’t spool the video because I’m in a remote area. But a couple comments:
1) I ride on 155cm cranks. Even shorter cranks are available (see eg Cobb Cycling, Rotor). Almost EVERYBODY would benefit from using shorter cranks than what is usually provided on a stock bike;
2) Speedplay has an optional extension plate that allows the cleat position to be shifted farther back. I use these. They don’t get me as far back as I’d like to be, but they do help. The only way I know of to move farther back and still be clipped in is to purchase some very expensive custom riding shoes.
3) I have mentioned the Shimano SPD A530 pedals here before (now superseded by a new model.) They allow a rider to pedal unclipped on a flat side, or clipped on the opposite side. I put tens of thousands of miles on these pedals, almost half of which were unclipped (recovering from various foot surgeries). Unclipped was definitely more comfortable, because I could center the pedal under the arch of my foot which is a much more natural position. But clipped in was more powerful, especially in steep hills when cadence slows. But I managed very nicely to maintain pace without being clipped in. The penalty was not huge.
4) My ideal pedal would be similar to the Shimano SPD A530, but with a clipped-in position farther aft on the foot. The ability to wear riding shoes that you can also walk around in very comfortably when off the bike is a high priority for me. Unfortunately, my current Speedplay arrangement fails in this respect.
Thanks for the comments and discussion!
Lee, I don't think that toe down is necessarily bad BUT, it may be an indication of other fit issues - maybe the seat is too high or a leg is too long so you tend to 'toe down' to prevent rocking. I do think that the more neutral rider can put out a bit more power.
Vark, you have mentioned this stuff before - but I wasn't ready to 'receive'. Now I understand a little more about where you are coming from. There is another video on youtube by Cam Nichols, an Aussie, who does interviews with a really awesome bike fitter. He pretty much made the same points as you. He also uses the speedplay adjustment plate that moves the cleat rearward. His opinion is that everyone short of world class sprinters and track cyclists would benefit from moving their cleats back. He also says that most everyone (>50%) he works with gets a shim under one shoe. He also put Cam on shorter cranks.
I always tried to get the old 'pedal spindle under knee at 90 degrees' - which is a starting point, maybe. Now I see that there is much more to it.
For Rinty and Lee, when it comes to clipless, I just don't really know any better. My first mountain bike came with SPD pedals and I had no idea how to use them - but I got a pair of cheap shimano shoes that fit me and mounted the cleats and was off to the races. I was into technical eastcoast single track with a lot of climbing. My experienced buddies didn't wait around - so I learned to clip in/out under duress. There were some very sketchy exits! That experience made using clipless on the road seem so easy that I didn't even think about it: just started using mtb SPD on the road. When I started riding with roadies, I saw that they actually used road bike pedals and the shoes were lighter, so I made the switch. I really wouldn't consider not using clipless now. I don't even think about clipping in/out. So Rinty, maybe try a different system - specifically the SPD pedal that Vark suggested. Lee, maybe give it a try. SPD on the road is fine - and touring shoes (or light mtb shoes) make it easy to walk in.
Lastly, for your entertainment, I present you you my Imelda Marcos worthy collection of cycling footwear:
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The only ones I haven't worn this year are the SIDIs on the far left. They are triathlon shoes that I raced in a lot but I perfer the 3 strap or ratchet systems more. The grey/blue ones next to them are 20 year old Genius 3s which are my absolute favorite shoes. I wonder how many miles are on them. They are now my trainer shoes and have been replaced with the orange ones on the far right.
Michelle just walked in as I was posting this and started laughing at me. I'm pretty sure she has more cycling shoes than I do.
Vark,
I also meant to ask, what kind of cranks are you using?
Michelle is using Shimano Ultegra and, unfortunately, her power meter is located in the left crank arm. This is going to be super expensive to replace.
I have 3 different crank lengths: 175 on trainer, 172.5 on road/gravel, 170 on fixed gear. I do notice a little difference when going from trainer to fixed, but adjust quickly. 170 seems like I'm spinning a lot, 175 feels like I have a long lever and can put down the torque. 172.5 feels great to me. I have a 33" inseam. I don't have any pain from any of those lengths. I do adjust my seat high to compensate for the crank length.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1211976]Vark,
I also meant to ask, what kind of cranks are you using?
Michelle is using Shimano Ultegra and, unfortunately, her power meter is located in the left crank arm. This is going to be super expensive to replace.
I have 3 different crank lengths: 175 on trainer, 172.5 on road/gravel, 170 on fixed gear. I do notice a little difference when going from trainer to fixed, but adjust quickly. 170 seems like I'm spinning a lot, 175 feels like I have a long lever and can put down the torque. 172.5 feels great to me. I have a 33" inseam. I don't have any pain from any of those lengths. I do adjust my seat high to compensate for the crank length.[/QUOTE]
I am currently using a very inexpensive compact crankset by Cobb cycling, made in Taiwan. No power meter option (I’ve never used a powermeter.) If she needs a powermeter option, Rotor would be a good pick.
My first road bike had 172.5 crankset. A riding buddy’s roadbike had same crankset length. He has a 34.5” inseam. I have a 28” inseam. But the manufacturers spec-ed same crank length for two completely different sized bikes. Makes no sense, except to cut costs and save money. Very similar to the limited gear ratio offerings (“transmissions”) for human “engines” of vastly different strength.
With shorter cranks you will spin faster on average, which for practically everyone is a good thing. But ideally the rest of the drivetrain is adjusted so that it is properly matched. Smaller chainrings in particular complement shorter crank arms nicely.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1211928]Discussion topic: Clips or clipless pedals? Dedicated bike shoes or sneakers?
<snip>
Now keep in mind that I'm not talking about gigantic issues. These are little issues that, if we could correct them, may just make her cycling a little more enjoyable and allow her to be a little more powerful/faster. So I have been watching videos about bike fitting: particularly cleat position. My theory is that the following could help her: 1) she may have a leg length discrepancy, 2) she could benefit from using shorter cranks, 3) normal bike Q-factor (distance between the pedals) is just too wide for her. Except for the leg length thing, these are pretty expensive fixes. She is already on the shortest cranks I could easily get (165mm). I've also made that issue worse by moving her cleats back as far as I possibly can. Speedplay also allows the cleats to be moved left/right so I've moved them as close to the bike as possible to reduce Q-factor. I've also lowered her saddle to compensate for moving the cleats rearward.
<snip>
Do any of you have experience with any of this? I'm interested in your thoughts.[/QUOTE]
Did you really mean to say "moved them (the cleats) as close as possiblea'? Moving the cleats in nearer the bike effectively increases the Q-factor by moving the foot further away from the bike.
[QUOTE=jgoertz;1211995]Did you really mean to say "moved them (the cleats) as close as possiblea'? Moving the cleats in nearer the bike effectively increases the Q-factor by moving the foot further away from the bike.[/QUOTE]
Well, thank you for checking my work! I just checked what I did - and it is exactly the opposite of what I intended. I must have confused myself working 'upside down'. Holy moly would she have been pissed at me tomorrow morning! Fixing them now...
Thanks again.
Edit: Fixed it but I really don't know what I was thinking when I did it in the first place. As soon as I read your email, I thought, "no, you're not that stupid". I am. But I'm also overconfident - spent part of the evening with a multimeter trying to figure out why my house AC compressor isn't getting 230V. Bad contactor. Was going to take it apart and try to clean the contact points until I get a new part. Now I'm doubting myself. :)
[QUOTE=vark;1211982]I am currently using a very inexpensive compact crankset by Cobb cycling, made in Taiwan. No power meter option (I’ve never used a powermeter.) If she needs a powermeter option, Rotor would be a good pick.
My first road bike had 172.5 crankset. A riding buddy’s roadbike had same crankset length. He has a 34.5” inseam. I have a 28” inseam. But the manufacturers spec-ed same crank length for two completely different sized bikes. Makes no sense, except to cut costs and save money. Very similar to the limited gear ratio offerings (“transmissions”) for human “engines” of vastly different strength.
With shorter cranks you will spin faster on average, which for practically everyone is a good thing. But ideally the rest of the drivetrain is adjusted so that it is properly matched. Smaller chainrings in particular complement shorter crank arms nicely.[/QUOTE]
Thank you. Now I understand. Michelle's inseam my be just a little bit longer than yours. I think she is 29". Proportionally she has long legs and a short torso.
I'm going to see if we can get away with the 165s (she has them on 5 bikes!).
I've been training with power for about 16 years and with a heart rate monitor for much longer than that. To use motorcycle analogies, the power meter is like a motorcycle racer/mechanic having their own dyno and the HRM is like having a tachometer on the bike. And I use them for about the same purpose. HR is more useful to me during a ride. Keeps me from blowing up and can warn me of dehydration or overheating. One time I had it on when I took a trip to the emergency room. I saw my HR drop to below 30, I said to the nurse, "I'm going to pass out now" - and did.
Years ago I got a professional fitting for both my MTB and gravel bike. The key was that the shop doing it replaced a few items for free as we swapped out a handlebar and 2 stems and one seat. The shop did a lot of fittings as the owner doing the fittings was a pro rider. Sadly he retired and closed the shop...:banghead
Yes I paid $200 for both bikes, but it was worth it as I can ride longer without needing traction afterwards :gerg
For me it was money well spent but YMMV..
[QUOTE=RIDERR1150GSADV;1212038]Years ago I got a professional fitting for both my MTB and gravel bike. The key was that the shop doing it replaced a few items for free as we swapped out a handlebar and 2 stems and one seat. The shop did a lot of fittings as the owner doing the fittings was a pro rider. Sadly he retired and closed the shop...:banghead
Yes I paid $200 for both bikes, but it was worth it as I can ride longer without needing traction afterwards :gerg
For me it was money well spent but YMMV..[/QUOTE]
You are right, a good fit is worth the price - I wouldn't hesitate to pay for a detailed fitter to look at her. I don't know of any within at least 3 hours of where I live. The position that Michelle is in WAS done by a really good guy in Rochester. That got her into a position that allowed her to ride long miles (at that time we rode at least 100 miles on every Saturday in May and June). So her general position is good and she would have no problem going out and riding 5 hours with little pain. I am looking for that last 5% that allows her to generate more power while reducing her aerodynamic profile. I need someone with lasers, leg angle, leg length and seat pressure measurement capability. I know what I'm trying to get to if I just knew how far off she is. We are talking mm here.
You are probably thinking: "if you are that close, the body will adapt". Yup it will - but if you have a hitch somewhere, the body will adapt to prevent you from putting out the power that could cause damage. I guess pain is the ultimate adaptation of your body telling you not to do whatever is causing it any more. :) Even little fit problems can cause muscle imbalances and repetitive use injuries if you ride enough.
My experiment of moving my cleats rearward resulted in a slightly different feel when i first started riding today. I got used to it fairly quickly. After 30 miles I could feel my knees a little - but I was riding a lot of hills so that is probably normal. I'll stick with it for a while and how it goes.
Edit: Michelle just told me that she could feel the difference in cleat placement. She didn't do many hills and felt a little twinge in her left knee (lower left of kneecap while looking at it from the front). She also felt the tightness in her back - which she has had before. This is minor discomfort - not really pain. But she felt like she could get more power to the pedal in the new position so she is going to ride that way for a while and see if she can adapt. I think the tightness in the back is a leg length thing. Or maybe we'll start doing yoga.
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1212016]Well, thank you for checking my work! I just checked what I did - and it is exactly the opposite of what I intended. I must have confused myself working 'upside down'. Holy moly would she have been pissed at me tomorrow morning! Fixing them now...
Thanks again.
Edit: Fixed it but I really don't know what I was thinking when I did it in the first place. As soon as I read your email, I thought, "no, you're not that stupid". I am. But I'm also overconfident - spent part of the evening with a multimeter trying to figure out why my house AC compressor isn't getting 230V. Bad contactor. Was going to take it apart and try to clean the contact points until I get a new part. Now I'm doubting myself. :)[/QUOTE]
I almost lost the sale of a very expensive tandem because the manufacture changed the BB width/q-factor. When my customer ordered it, we didn't think about q-factor changing. The bike came in, with just about every bell & whistle on it. First ride/stoker came back saying she couldn't accept the bike -- q-factor too wide. I was able to move her cleats out (moving her feet inboard) and all was well again. Final test ride -- the couple came back all smiles! And yes, it is very easy to get confused working with the shoes upside down. Don't beat yourself up over it. Just be glad you caught it before your wife did!
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1212058]You are right, a good fit is worth the price - I wouldn't hesitate to pay for a detailed fitter to look at her. I don't know of any within at least 3 hours of where I live. The position that Michelle is in WAS done by a really good guy in Rochester. That got her into a position that allowed her to ride long miles (at that time we rode at least 100 miles on every Saturday in May and June). So her general position is good and she would have no problem going out and riding 5 hours with little pain. I am looking for that last 5% that allows her to generate more power while reducing her aerodynamic profile. I need someone with lasers, leg angle, leg length and seat pressure measurement capability. I know what I'm trying to get to if I just knew how far off she is. We are talking mm here.
You are probably thinking: "if you are that close, the body will adapt". Yup it will - but if you have a hitch somewhere, the body will adapt to prevent you from putting out the power that could cause damage. I guess pain is the ultimate adaptation of your body telling you not to do whatever is causing it any more. :) Even little fit problems can cause muscle imbalances and repetitive use injuries if you ride enough.
My experiment of moving my cleats rearward resulted in a slightly different feel when i first started riding today. I got used to it fairly quickly. After 30 miles I could feel my knees a little - but I was riding a lot of hills so that is probably normal. I'll stick with it for a while and how it goes.
Edit: Michelle just told me that she could feel the difference in cleat placement. She didn't do many hills and felt a little twinge in her left knee (lower left of kneecap while looking at it from the front). She also felt the tightness in her back - which she has had before. This is minor discomfort - not really pain. But she felt like she could get more power to the pedal in the new position so she is going to ride that way for a while and see if she can adapt. I think the tightness in the back is a leg length thing. Or maybe we'll start doing yoga.[/QUOTE]
Close but no cigar can still hurt you. Shame you have no access to a good shop that can help you.
Yoga can't hurt either and losing a few pounds helps even more. I know I look like I didn't miss a meal..... :bluduh :uhoh :rofl
Today we rode on trainers because it is hot out - and I was too lazy to get outside early in the morning.
This gave me an opportunity to check out Michelle's position with the cleats moved back and OUT :). She is riding noticeably less 'toe down' - her pedal stroke looks fantastic. I also notice that her right leg is no longer flailing away from the bike at the top of the stroke. She actually asked me if I can move the cleats any further back (ans: only with the adapters Vark mentioned). The Q factor is better bit still an issue. I challenged her to brush her inner thigh on her top tube - it was uncomfortable for her and she was unable to touch the top tube (I do this naturally). Her feet are just too far away from the center of the bike.
Bottom line: 1) I'm going to work on moving cleats back and Q-factor in (with shorter pedal spindles) and, maybe, a leg length shim under her right leg, 2) I'm going to let her adapt to that and see where we are. Eventually we may try shorter cranks - I cringe at the expense, though.
For the folks on the tails of the height distribution curve, getting a really good fit is HARD! We have the same problem with motorcycles. She rides an F800ST, factory lowered, custom saddle, fork tubes raised and bar backs. She also has a laminar lip. It took a couple of years to get that bike to fit properly - and that is a main reason why we tend to keep motorcycles forever: it is so painful to get them set up the first time. I almost bought a second lowered F800ST as a future replacement because she loves this one so much. Her previous bike was an R1100R that she rode for 15 years before getting the F. That was also modified but was never really comfy for her. She loved the power but not the weight.
[QUOTE=RIDERR1150GSADV;1212213]Close but no cigar can still hurt you. Shame you have no access to a good shop that can help you.
Yoga can't hurt either and losing a few pounds helps even more. I know I look like I didn't miss a meal..... :bluduh :uhoh :rofl[/QUOTE]
Michelle would probably agree that she could use a little upper body conditioning but at 97lbs, she doesn't need to lose any weight. We have discussed implementing a core strength regime and will start that up soon. She is quite modest - but she is actually a very strong rider, especially against her peers. In races she is usually on the podium in her age group - admittedly, over 50 ladies may be a lightly populated demographic in bike races.
Here is a 'before' picture of her:
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Now I could sure stand to lose 15 lbs! :)
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1212238]Today we rode on trainers because it is hot out - and I was too lazy to get outside early in the morning.[/QUOTE]
Had more to add but this made me :laugh
[QUOTE=henzilla;1212249]Had more to add but this made me :laugh[/QUOTE]
I’m glad. I was chuckling when I wrote it :).
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1212239]Michelle would probably agree that she could use a little upper body conditioning but at 97lbs, she doesn't need to lose any weight. We have discussed implementing a core strength regime and will start that up soon. She is quite modest - but she is actually a very strong rider, especially against her peers. In races she is usually on the podium in her age group - admittedly, over 50 ladies may be a lightly populated demographic in bike races.
Here is a 'before' picture of her:
[ATTACH]79477[/ATTACH]
Now I could sure stand to lose 15 lbs! :)[/QUOTE]
Good for her doing well in races and she should do even better with all the adjustments you guys are working on. I also hear you on the heat, as I haven't been riding as much as I should either since Florida detached from earth and moved closer to the sun.....:bluduh
[QUOTE=kurtr11s;1212238]....
Bottom line: 1) I'm going to work on moving cleats back and Q-factor in (with shorter pedal spindles) and, maybe, a leg length shim under her right leg, 2) I'm going to let her adapt to that and see where we are. Eventually we may try shorter cranks - I cringe at the expense, though.
For the folks on the tails of the height distribution curve, getting a really good fit is HARD! We have the same problem with motorcycles. She rides an F800ST, factory lowered, custom saddle, fork tubes raised and bar backs. She also has a laminar lip. It took a couple of years to get that bike to fit properly - and that is a main reason why we tend to keep motorcycles forever: it is so painful to get them set up the first time. I almost bought a second lowered F800ST as a future replacement because she loves this one so much. Her previous bike was an R1100R that she rode for 15 years before getting the F. That was also modified but was never really comfy for her. She loved the power but not the weight.[/QUOTE]
Definitely try the Speedplay extension plates for her. They are relatively inexpensive and pretty simple to install.
Be aware, they only get you about 3/8-1/2” of movement aft (don’t quote me on that - - I could be off but I do remember wishing it was much more.) However, using them at max extension definitely produced a noticeable reduction in stress on the tendons in my ankles and feet. That repetitive stress is cumulative and can lead to weakness and even injuries.
On the shorter cranks, you might consider trying a set on the one bike she rides the most often (or maybe the most miles.) But I would not pursue this unless you are prepared to make some other driveline changes at the same time.
The benefits of shorter cranks are not fully realized without making other adjustments to the drivetrain, ie less aggressive gearing. If you only shorten her crank length, there is a good chance she will find herself spending a lot more time in the lower gears on her cassette, and needing to switch to the smaller front chainring much more often in hills. That is less efficient and can be annoying too.
I recommend moving to smaller chainrings when reducing cranklength. And if you are going to be buying new chainrings anyway, consider giving Rotor’s ovalized Q-rings a try. The variable diameter takes a little getting used to, but I’ve found they provide a lot of benefit.
P.S. She has good taste in motorcycles, too. That F800ST is a sharp looking bike.
.
Thanks Vark, good info.
I'll go slightly off topic with a picture of Michelle with our bikes in full-on tour mode. Anyone know where we are?
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One more for a hint. I promise I'll get back to bikes after this.
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Got my first flat on the tubeless system today. 7 miles into a 67 mile bike ride. Gash in the middle of the tire about 1/8" wide. Sealant was spewing out - it was trying hard to reseal. And it did, kind of. The hole was just a little too large for the sealant.
Fixing the flat was no big deal. Same drill as fixing a tubed tire except instead of removing the old tube, you remove the tubeless valve stem and dump out some of the sealant. I used CO2 to fill the tire with new tube. The first one didn't seat the bead - and I noticed it while ride (an 'unbalanced' feeling with every revolution). So I stopped again after 5 more miles and used another CO2 shot. Everything was fine after that.
I think the bead not seating is because of the sealant. It acts as an adhesive that keeps the bead from sliding onto the 'hook' of the rim.
I noticed a lot of small slashes in the rear tire. My tire has a flat center strip now after about 1500? miles. Michelle's look a lot better and she has about 2k miles. The difference between a light/low power rider vs a clydesdale. We have the same experience with motorcycle tires. I've been running Michelin Pilot 4 GTs on our touring bikes and I wouldn't be surprised if she gets double the miles I do.
Pictures from the ride. We were in Oswego on Lake Ontario.
First picture is in front of Rudys Drive Inn - a local favorite, right on the lake. This looks like nobody is there - but in reality, all of the outdoor seating was packed. This is a popular place for car and motorcycle club meetings. Our buddy Jim Mignogna, a long time motorcycle shop owner, mechanic, and Moto Guzzi enthusiast, holds a yearly ride-in for European bikes in Rudys' parking lot. He would prefer Italian only but only 10 guys would show up. Michelle rode Guzzis for years so Jim lets us hang around even though she is on a BMW now. Rudys other claim to fame (for us) is that it is the start/finish of the Tour de Loop bicycle race. It was my first race back in 1999.
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Just down the road from Rudys - I tried to take a lake photo on the fly. I have problems with sweat mist on the lens.
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Rode with a tube in my rear tubeless tire. It is pumped to about 100 psi. The ride is much more harsh and lacks 'suspension' so it feels like it 'slips' when cornering over bumps. So my experience is that tubes in tubeless tires suck. We have some more tubeless tires ordered - I like the feel so I'm willing to live with the apparently short life.
Also: new lights were waiting for us when we got home from our ride. These are for conspicuity only. Single LED front and rear so there is no beam effect (no side visibility). Both front and rear blink. They are very small and light weight. Charge via USB - but no cable required. The USB connection is built right into the casing of the light. I'll post my impressions after a few rides. I'll keep track of run time on the new batteries, too.
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Kurt, how do you like the lights?
Not a very good picture.
Yesterday on the edge of town I had a couple deer watching me.
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[QUOTE=Lee;1214366]Kurt, how do you like the lights?[/QUOTE]
Lee,
The Knog mini-blinder single LED lights work OK: they provide conspicuity in a very small, rechargeable package. There is a built in 'male' USB-A power plug so it could plug into a computer or other device with a female USB-A socket. They do NOT come with a charger of their own, so you have to provide your own. That isn't a problem for us, we have collected a million of these things over the years. Having a male USB connection is unique: I don't have any other devices that are set up that way. It looks like it would keep the device pretty waterproof: there is no hole for water to collect in.
I'm still trying to figure out how much run time I get on a charge. I know that I get at least 3.5 hours. After that, I've been recharging because I don't want to 'run out' on my next ride.
I usually ride ahead of Michelle and I can see her front blinking white light. It isn't very pronounced in bright sunshine but on overcast days or in shadows it is very noticeable. I would consider the rear lights more of a 'backup'. We use our Niterider lights all of the time: they are REALLY bright and last a long time. The Knog also have no way to mount on our saddlebags. They have an elastic band that attaches the unit to the seat post. This works fine for my bikes but doesn't work so well for Michelle's smaller frames. There is no room under the saddlebag to put the Knog. It will work on her travel bike, though.
Now for the bad news: the first set that I used had a defective battery in the front light. It only held a charge for about 1 hour. We bought them from Amazon, who promptly replaced it with a unit that appears to work fine (only 1 x 2.5 hour ride so far).
So, for a little over $20 we got small white blinking front lights and a 'backup' rear light. I don't like to run my 'big' front light permanently because it encroaches on my preferred hand position on the tops. And it is a bit heavy.
So I will continue to run them and will see how long they last. They seem well made. You do have to 'stretch' a rubber band to attach them after every charge. That looks like the weak point, to me.
Michelle also went nuts and bought the Niterider Solas 250 rear light (~$40) for both of us. This is similar to our current rear light but adds a red LED 'traffic lane' behind the bike. I imagine that it looks crazy after dark. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet. These get poor reviews online - but only for the mounting bracket. But we don't use the bracket, we attach them to our saddle bags. The Niterider lights are really bright and have substantial batteries. That adds cost and weight, however.