1995 R100RT Oil Change

[Scarletswirl]

Noobie question. Does changing the oil require disassembling the fairing to get to the filter? If so, is there an easy way to do it? (I'll take a less difficult too...)
Thanks

 

[20774]

As I understand things, you likely will need to remove the lower portion of the fairing and the front piece as well. Brook has a bit on removing a fairing for an RS bike...he might have some ideas on where to remove the lower parts:

https://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyc...airing-dash-volt-meter-clock-ignition-switch/

 

[chunk]

I'm not sure, but it has an oil cooler as well? Maybe need to measure for proper compression of the white "o" ring? You can read here if applicable. cheers.

http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html

 

[20774]

I did this pictorial of my recent filter change...it's not an RT however:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?95493-R100-7-Filter-Change-A-Pictorial

 

[RPGR90s]

Rt

I had a '93 RT and did all my own oil changes.

If stock the right side header has a small bend in it to account for the protruding oil cooler plumbing on the filter cover.

What helps is to use T-handle Bondhus allen wrenches (4mm, if memory serves).

You'll need to remove just the front fairing's timing cover.

Loosen and remove both oil cooler lines, then tie them out of the way with a zip tie.
Then use the allen wrench to get the 3 oil filter fasteners removed.
You'll likely have a shim, white rubber o-ring behind the filter cover (along with the filter)
Replace with the same so you have the filter sealed against the cover and therefore develop proper oil pressure.

Not the easiest Airhead filter to change, but not too bad either.

RPGR90s

 

[chunk]

I would advise, since this is new to you, that you check the measurements to verify they are correctly done. I've read before that folks have found the compression of the "O" ring incorrectly done by the PO, or last shop that did the oil change. Nice to know it's right, and not rely on the past wrench. cheers.

 

[Scarletswirl]

Definitely has an oil cooler. As far as the fairing, he's showing how to remove it top to bottom. Hopefully I'll find a way to remove only the two or three bottom panels that are in the way

 

[20774]

You should be able to remove just the bottom panel. I've heard people sometimes will do that on their RT/RS bikes for summer riding in order to make things cooler.

 

[Friedle]

Where are you located? Have you contacted your state Airmarshal for the name of a nearby Airhead or Tech Day who could help you? Are you a member of the Airheads Beemer Club or are you just using our logo as your avatar?

www.airheads.org

Michael Friedle
Airhead #46
NY Airmarshal
ABC BoD

 

[toooldtocare]

The oil filter should be hinged. The thermostat will remove by removing 3 screws. Watch them, one is shorter. It will drop down enough to pull out the filter, bending it at the hinge. Replace everything. If you want to drain the oil cooler, remove the two lines and allow them to drain. Replace them with new washers. There is a special bolt that can be used to displace the oil cooler thermostat to allow priming. If you do, pull the spark plugs, ground them with the wires attached so they will spark, and crank over the engine with that bolt inserted in the bottom of the thermostat. You will see what looks like a drain plug on the bottom of the thermostat. This primes the oil cooler so it does not pass a slug of air through the engine when the thermostat opens. Or, just don’t drain the cooler. It holds a very small amount of oil.

Wayne

Edit, so no, you do not need to remove any fairing parts.

 

[khittner]

On my twin-shock '84 RT, it's much easier to access the rear-most oil filter cover bolt if the right side lower is removed. The access issues may be different (perhaps better) on your monoshock RT, which has a different exhaust pipe layout.

 

[toooldtocare]

On my twin-shock '84 RT, it's much easier to access the rear-most oil filter cover bolt if the right side lower is removed. The access issues may be different (perhaps better) on your monoshock RT, which has a different exhaust pipe layout.

Agree, on a twin shock. On my 78 RS I loosened the exhaust nuts, loosened the muffler clamps, and slid the exhaust forward to gain access to the thermostat housing. On my 95 RT, this was not necessary. The use of a ball tip Allen wrench helps though.

Wayne

 

[pglaves]

Agree, on a twin shock. On my 78 RS I loosened the exhaust nuts, loosened the muffler clamps, and slid the exhaust forward to gain access to the thermostat housing. On my 95 RT, this was not necessary. The use of a ball tip Allen wrench helps though.

Wayne

I just love engineering where in order to do a proper oil change you need to move the exhaust. It reminds me of the oil change instructions for my F650. reading the factory repair manual, the first step is "Remove left front turn signal."

 

[toooldtocare]

I just love engineering where in order to do a proper oil change you need to move the exhaust. It reminds me of the oil change instructions for my F650. reading the factory repair manual, the first step is "Remove left front turn signal."

I’ll second that. On my 75 Moto Guzzi 850T you had to drop the oil pan to change the oil filter. It screwed into the bottom of the pan. Guess how many times I replaced that filter.

Wayne

 

[stevenrankin]

Fairing lower mod

Long time ago when I bought my R80RT new, the dealer at the time would cut a notch in the lower fairing to allow easy access to the filter.

On my R100RS, I removed the oil cooler altogether, and notched the lower. St.

 

[lkchris]

Kind of unknown information, but comparing pre 1985 Airheads with ‘85-on Airheads is a bit like comparing apples and oranges.

The later bikes have a different frame, and oil filter removal clearance is significantly improved.

The later bikes also have an internal filter canister with a folded over end ... which means you don’t need the metal shim to protect the white O-ring.

Experience with older bikes can be irrelevant.