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SURVEY: Oil filter brand for all K bikes.

argent brick

New member
Recently I ask about oil for my K75. I did not expect to get back that much detailed information. Boy, did I open a can of worms.

Now I am asking about oil filters. K BIKES ONLY PLEASE.
What brand do you use and why? Not trying to cause problems or piss anyone off.
Just would like to know what brand and model number you use and why. Also, please let me know what K bike you ride, K75,100,1100, etc.

I will post the stats at the end of the year.
 
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BMW.
Why?
Well, a few things.
1.) I like spending more :brad
2.) The BMW filters have the correct spring pressure for the valves in them
3.) The BMW filters have a low pressure bypass inside, in case there is an engine problem.
4.) The BMW filters have no sort of coating on them. Nothing to flake off inside the oil pan.

Filters of similar size, are not the same on the inside.
 
Recently I ask about oil for my K75. I did not expect to get back that much detailed information. Boy, did I open a can of worms.

Now I am asking about oil filters. K BIKES ONLY PLEASE. What brand do you use and why? Not trying to cause problems or piss anyone off.
Just would like to know what brand and model number you use and why. Also, please let me know what K bike you ride, K75,100,1100, etc.

I will post the stats at the end of the year.

you do realize that 10 years worth of Oilheads also use the exact same oil filter as ALL the Klassic (in-line front-to-rear) K bikes, don't you?

so- I have used Bosch and K&N in my K11RS, and in my current R11S. Because "fits" and "works as spec'd by BMW" are not necessarily synonymous, and both of those filters have receicved excellent reviews on their construction form several independent testers, and the BMW labeled filters are no better, yet cost more.
 
you do realize that 10 years worth of Oilheads also use the exact same oil filter as ALL the Klassic (in-line front-to-rear) K bikes, don't you?

Yes, but that is not my goal here. Just doing a very informal study about what filter Brickheads are choosing and why?

You have used both Bosch and K&N. Which one do you like the most and why?

Thanks for your input, Bikerfish.

-Argent Brick
 
whichever one is cheaper when i make my purchase. last time, it was Bosch from beemerboneyard.
the one advantage to the K&N is that they have a metric nut (15mm or 17mm, can't recall which) welded onto the bottom, so there's no need for a special filter wrench. especially useful if needing to change it on the road.
 
Purolator filters in my K bikes. Reason for me is they have been on my cars for several years with aluminum engines and no problems.
 
Napa 1328 but...

I've been using the Napa Gold 1328 filters that can be obtained cheaply almost anywhere. Part of the reason I have been using them was that the bike has been with me in rural Hawaii (until a few months ago) where obtaining OEM BMW anything is only via mail order/Internet.

Now that I am only 7 miles from a BMW dealer I may go back to the OEM Mann filters as "quality only hurts once." Especially after reading that post above, too.

However, so far so good with the Napa filters which I've always fastidiously removed the stick-on labels with Goo Gone before installing (and then cleaned off the Goo Gone as well). I found out about them through this or perhaps the IBMWR tech articles---they're a common substitution that cheap buggers such as myself often use.

I'm curious to see how many others use the Napas but I do think it behooves me to switch back to BMW now that I have such easy access to parts.
 
I've been using the Napa Gold 1328 filters that can be obtained cheaply almost anywhere.

Thanks for the info, Zagando. I plan to post the results of this informal survey at the end of the year or Jan. 2013. Should be lots of fun to find out. I am not seeing many people respond though.

FWIW, I have been told by the sales staff at our local Napa Auto Parts that the Gold filters are made by Wix. Great filter, with Napa or Wix name on the box. If I may ask, about how much are you paying for your Napa filters?
 
Lynn, I don't recall exactly but I was paying around $5 or so for Napa/Wix filters and that was in Hawaii.

Guess I'll find out how much the BMW (Mann) filters cost when I go to the dealer later...(gulp):bolt
 
Been using AC-Delco PF53 on my 87K75S for the last 20 years. It's pushing 200k, the trick is to hide the filter until it's in the sump so the bike never knows how cheap I am.
 
Bosch 3330

About 10 years ago I crossed the 53 number to bosch and came up with bosch 3330. I took the sticker off and stuck it on my tool box as a reminder. I use synthetic oil and I change oil once a year on my 2 K100s whether they need it or not. There are 15 stickers on my tool box and that equals about 120k on the 2 bikes
 
K&N. I like the fact I can use a 1" socket or wrench (I have an old bicycle wrench that fits well) on the welded on bottom nut to remove and secure the filter. Plus they stand by their product. It's a local company for me, so I keep my money supporting local businesses. But would be just as happy using Bosch or BMW OEM filters too.

I use Lucas oil in the bike. The other "big" brands are good too. But then again, I like spending my money at local business. I do use BMW gear oil in the final drive though, which (here it comes) I buy at my local BMW shop.

Now Monster Drink is another local business. but no, haven't tried or used that product, but I do drink Hanson Natural soda from time to time. :drink
 
Test it yourself

My advice when asked about filters is to advise the questioner to cut open whatever filter they are considering. I've been doing this for years (I'm cheap, I do it AFTER I use them). Having done so I now almost universally use OE filters, bikes and cars. There is simply MUCH more filter paper inside OE filters than there is in aftermarket ones. Up to 50% more, which translates into 50% more filtering ability.
Now this assume the paper's filtering ability is the same, and of course I can't measure that. But I seriously doubt a discount filter is using better paper than the OE supplier.
The other argument is that the aftermarket filters may be "good enough." This is probably true. BMWs, especially the old bricks, have shown little sensitivity to oil problems, and most of us change it often enough that that alone protects the engine. But if you are interested enough to be reading this thread, one would think you'd want the added piece of mind, if nothing else, that comes with knowing you've got the best filter in your bike that you can buy.
Or maybe that's just me.
 
My advice when asked about filters is to advise the questioner to cut open whatever filter they are considering. I've been doing this for years (I'm cheap, I do it AFTER I use them). Having done so I now almost universally use OE filters, bikes and cars. There is simply MUCH more filter paper inside OE filters than there is in aftermarket ones. Up to 50% more, which translates into 50% more filtering ability.
Now this assume the paper's filtering ability is the same, and of course I can't measure that. But I seriously doubt a discount filter is using better paper than the OE supplier.
The other argument is that the aftermarket filters may be "good enough." This is probably true. BMWs, especially the old bricks, have shown little sensitivity to oil problems, and most of us change it often enough that that alone protects the engine. But if you are interested enough to be reading this thread, one would think you'd want the added piece of mind, if nothing else, that comes with knowing you've got the best filter in your bike that you can buy.
Or maybe that's just me.

agree wtih your general premise, and analysis. however, there is more to filter construction than just amount of paper used.
nature of construction of endcaps is critical- some use crimped metal, others reinforced cardboard, others probably some other methodology. pressure relief valves- both build quality and relief set-points are of concern. other internal parts matter as well.
internet is your friend-
here are some review sites. interesting results.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/oilfilter2.htm
 
My advice when asked about filters is to advise the questioner to cut open whatever filter they are considering. I've been doing this for years (I'm cheap, I do it AFTER I use them). Having done so I now almost universally use OE filters, bikes and cars. There is simply MUCH more filter paper inside OE filters than there is in aftermarket ones. Up to 50% more, which translates into 50% more filtering ability.
Now this assume the paper's filtering ability is the same, and of course I can't measure that. But I seriously doubt a discount filter is using better paper than the OE supplier.
The other argument is that the aftermarket filters may be "good enough." This is probably true. BMWs, especially the old bricks, have shown little sensitivity to oil problems, and most of us change it often enough that that alone protects the engine. But if you are interested enough to be reading this thread, one would think you'd want the added piece of mind, if nothing else, that comes with knowing you've got the best filter in your bike that you can buy.
Or maybe that's just me.

Thank you for your comments Tonycarlos. That is one more mark for the OEM filter. What type and year of K bike do you have?

I have to agree with you about the added piece of mind when you use a quality product. That is why we buy Beemers in the first place. Is it not?

You know as I sit here and write this, I have 4 oil filters on my desk. Just holding them you can tell, you get what you pay for. You would be amazed if you could feel the differences between them. Maybe I will cut into some of them to see what you get for your money. Personally, I feel a filter and oil change is cheap insurance for your bike's health. It does not cost very much and can't hurt the bike if done correctly.

There are only about 150 (so I hear) BMW motorcycle dealers in the US. Obviously not everyone can take their bike to a dealer for service. Because of this, I thought it would be fun to research who uses what filter and why. My goal is not to determine who makes the best filter. That is up to each bike owner. I just want to see if there is any sort of pattern or brand preference.
 
That cutting open your filter post is what did it for me; I went over to the dealer a little while ago and plunked down $21 in plastic for the primo Austrian job without hesitation.

The price included new O-rings and crush washer and a great deal of peace of mind. What a joy it is to be living so close to a BMW dealer, too. :thumb

The only drawback though: My wife has to wipe the drool from me when we are passing through the showroom on the way to the parts department. I never cared much for the new Beemers until I started seeing them in person now that we're back in civilization!

One further thought while I'm here, Lynn---perhaps you or a moderator might want to retitle your thread to include the word SURVEY; might garner even more response, eh?

Regards, Jeff
 
Glad to pay $21 for a filter? You must be ecstatic to be paying $4 for a gallon of gas! Think of how much better it is than that $2/gal swill we used to be forced to burn! (note sarcasm font):hungover:D
 
I believe you missed the point entirely.

No, I'm not happy about forking over $21 for an oil filter kit---I'm happy both because I'm now able to do so locally (after a ten+ year hiatus from the mailand USA) and because there are many good reasons to employ said Austrian filter in lieu of the Napa cheapy that has been sufficing so far (lucky me). See some of the earlier posts about filter quality, construction and features and so on as to my change in attitude about oil filters.

I also realize that a Mann would probably cost about $8 or $9 if it was made in the USA but that's almost beside the point. Imported goods often cost more (excepting junk produced in China and the Far East, of course) so if I want one I have to bite the bullet. It'll last me a good while so no big deal at all.

While I probably could keep on doing fine with the Napa/Wix/Purolator route; why take the chance? Clean engine oil is important and probaly the singlemost important factor in engine longevity if I'm not mistaken.

Seems almost a bargain when I think about it, especially in regards to peace of mind. I know these K engines are essentially bulletproof but I'd rather pamper it with synthetic oil and Mann filters and know that I'm on the best track possible rather than scrimping and trying to get by with what's otherwise available or an apparent bargain.

Guess I'm not really sich a cheap bugger as I mentioned before but that's OK by me. Excuse my rambling on an on but I just had a really good beer from Trader Joe's a mile up the road---something else I was living without since 2001---so pardon my enthusiasm and general demeanor.:dance

Life (and riding) is good in Albuquerque!
 
One further thought while I'm here, Lynn---perhaps you or a moderator might want to retitle your thread to include the word SURVEY; might garner even more response,eh.

Jeff, Putting the word SURVEY in the thread title is a great idea. How do you do that. I am not the best with computers.

BTW, Napa filters for the K bikes are not a poor quality filter. They are made by Wix and
considered top notch by many people. I have never had anyone make a bad comment to me about Wix or Napa products. If you use the one that Napa recommends for the K100 (#PS7936), it cost as much as the BMW filter from your local dealer. If you buy it in a Wix box, you can save a couple of bucks. What filter you have been buying?
 
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