Oil Change KGT 1300

[B][COLOR="Red"]The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

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It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.[/COLOR][/B]

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This DIY will step you thru the process I used to change the engine oil of my bike. There are two important differences of how this is shown and how BMW does it.
[LIST=1][*]The first difference is that I used a vacuum extraction device (Mighty Vac?« 7400) to remove the oil from the oil tank; whereas BMW provides a drain tube to be snaked down to be gravity drained – I did not want to deal with the mess and time waiting for the oil to drain.[*]The second difference is I did not remove the bracket to which the side-stand is mounted; instead I used an oil filter wrench from Max BMW?«, which allowed me to remove the filter by just using an open end wrench..[/LIST]

Scope of work – listed below are the main steps in replacing the oil on the bike

[B] Oil Draining[/B]
[LIST]
Remove lower skirt (clutch side and throttle side)[*]Drain oil from the engine[*]Drain oil from the oil tank[*]Remove oil filter[/LIST]
[B] Oil Filling[/B]
[list][*]Install drain plug[*]Install oil filter[*]Fill oil tank until dip stick shows Full [*]Start engine and let run for 20 seconds[*]Put the rest of the oil in the tank (total should be 3.5L)[*]Road test bike and check oil on return[*]Add oil as needed until dip stick shows full[*]Replace lower skirts on clutch and throttle side[/list]

[B] Helpful Tools:[/B]
[list][*]T25 Torx for the panel screws[*]8mm Hex socket for the drain plug[*][COLOR="Blue"]Optional (but recommended)[/COLOR]
[INDENT][*]Oil Filter wrench (Max BMW)[/INDENT]
[INDENT][*]17 mm combination wrench (for use on Oil Filter Wrench)[/INDENT]
[INDENT][*]Vacuum extraction device Mighty Vac?« 7400[/INDENT][/list]

[B]Materials[/B]:
I always use BMW Fluids and Filters – feel free to use what you want - references below are the part numbers I used
[list][*]BMW Filter – 11427721779
[INDENT][COLOR="Blue"]Important Note - the oil filter for the KGT 1200 (2004-8) is not the same as for the KGT 1300 - be aware when ordering[/COLOR][/INDENT][*]4 Liters of BMW Oil – 83122153837 – per specification you will consume 3.5 liters[*]Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer - 07119963252[/list]

Bike Preparation - warm the oil to operating temperatures to facilitate the draining process.

[COLOR="Red"][B]CAUTION [/B]- as you work near and around the exhaust it may be hot[/COLOR]

Put the bike on a firm and stable area to perform the work

Starting on the clutch side for no specific reason - remove the 4 T-25 bolts securing the bottom skirt

Detail of the 4th bolt by the side stand that needs to be removed

Remove the two bottom T-25's

Throttle side lower panel removal - same as was done on the clutch side

The fourth screw for the right side panel

To remove the panels you need to pull out on the main side panels due their mechanical interface - you don't to pull much just enough to clear their connection points - described below is how they are set up.

**************************************************

The lower side panels are attached in the following manner.

[LIST][*]First you have slot and groove connections at three different locations.[*]Second you have a vertical slot and groove connection where the longer bolt is located on the panel.[/LIST]

The next couple of images show the slot and groove connections and the vertical slot and groove connection.

The picture belowshows where the slot and grooves are located (same for both sides):

Slot detail - typical for the rest

Tab detail - typical for the rest of them

The center support - please note that the main side panel was removed to show the mechanical connection

Now that the lower side panels are removed you can start draining the oil.

Located directly underneath the bike and between the middle exhaust pipes you can locate the drain plug.

It requires an 8mm Hex Allen to remove.

Put a suitable container to catch the waste oil and remove the drain plug

Note the debris collected on the drain plug.

While the engine oil is draining clean the drain plug.

Once you clean the drain plug, you can see the crush washer. Remove and replace it with the new one

Put the cleaned oil drain plug with the new crush washer back into the engine block and torque it to 28Nm (20.6 ft-lbs)

Here is one of the diversions from the BMW standard process.

I used a vacuum extractor device to drain the oil tank, instead of the provided (and slow) gravity drain

To gain full access of the oil tank to be evacuated with the vacuum extrator I need to remove the cover/dipstick and the inner screen

Cover/Dipstick shown below

The inner screen

Insert the extraction device tube into the oil tank - pump up to develop vacuum

And watch the oil be removed

Extraction results - the green arrow shows the amount of oil extracted.

Approximately 2L which is the content of the oil tank

Here is the second deviation from the standard BMW process.

While BMW requires you to remove the bracket shown below, I did not do that because there are two oil filters that can be used.

The "short" one p/n 11 42 7 673 541 does not require you to remove the bracket (that is the one shown)

The "long" one p/n 11 42 7 721 779 does require, and what I did was just to loosen the three bolts enough to gain enough space to spin on the filter, will need to do the same when you remove it

For reference - the 3 T45 bolts to remove are shown*

If you do need to remove/loosen them you will also need a 13mm wrench tha holds the bolts in place on the back side.

Placement of the oil filter wrench - obtained from Max BMW

Removing the filter - I use a 17mm open end wrench to spin off the filter with the wrench.

[COLOR="Blue"]Shop Tip[/COLOR] - I placed some aluminum foil to guide the waste oil that will drain out of the filter to the drain pan instead of onto the exhaust pipes.

Draining in process

Once the majority of the oil has come out of the filter, remove the filter and clean off the oil on the mounting area for the new filter.

[B][COLOR="Blue"]Shop Tip[/COLOR][/B] - to facilitate the removal of the filter lifting the it up is better than trying to get it to drop down and out. Also on installation of the new filter it drops down and in

Please note from the image below that the rubber o-ring from the original filter stayed stuck on the engine block.

Remove the O ring (if stuck on the engine casing) and after wiping the area clean, spin on the new filter

The torque required is 11 Nm (8.1 ft-lbs) - I just put it on hand tight

At this point the engine block has been drained, the oil tank has been drained and the oil filter has been removed and replaced.

The refilling process is done in 3 stages:

[B]Stage 1[/B] brings the oil tank to register full on the dip stick - [COLOR="Blue"]Don't forget to put the screen back in if you used an extraction device[/COLOR]

[B]Stage 2 [/B]fills the engine by turning on the motor and running it for 20 seconds

[B]Stage 3[/B] completes the fill by putting in the rest of the recommended oil amount then going for a short test ride and checking the oil level and adding additional oil (if needed) to bring the level to recommended requirement.

Pour in some oil and then check the level.

[B]Do Not [/B]screw in the dip stick measure with the threads disengaged

The filling process continues.

The green arrow shows the current oil level, the yellow arrow is where we need to be.

At this point about 2.5L of oil have been put in

Just right! Stage 1 complete.

About 2.75L

[B]STAGE 2 [/B]- Now that the oil tank is at the correct level, turn the engine on for 20 seconds.

[B]STAGE 3[/B] - After the bike has been shut off, put in the balance of the required oil - to total 3.5L and go for a test ride.

You can ride the bike with out the lower covers.

I went for a quick spin around the block.

Once you return from the road test - check the oil level - and verify that it shows full, add as neccesary.

At this point the oil change is done and you can put the lower panels back on in the opposite order that they were removed.