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Another RS Project

H

habdala

Guest
One thing let to another and now the inedible. I purchase a 79 R100RS three weeks ago with 65k miles from the original owner, bike look good to clean and ride but after further inspection the timing chain needed replacing, valves adjusting and the list keeps on going. It was a deal could not refuse since I got a good deal on two bikes. The bike has original everything, from tools, owners manual, Tyre pump, and bike lock in the frame, bike was built for the European market and imported into the US in 92

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I replaced timing chain and sprockets, adjusted valves, rebuilt carburetors and now I'm working on the breaks. The master cylinder located under the tank is leaking and I see rust under that area.

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I decided that since I have tore down half the bike I might as well keep on going and check clutch, spline and replace a few gaskets here and there, the battery tray is also rusted and needs attention the rear brakes works fine but I will go over and freshen the pads and fluid. I guess for a 30 year old bike a few things need to be checked and fixed before I can ride it.

This is where I'm right now.

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Great bike. You're doing the right thing. Bring it up to date maintenance wise and you'll be able to ride it pretty much worry free. Those white saddle bags really should be on a "Motosport" model. I'll bet someone here will be willing to trade you a set of black ones for them.

Ride Safe
MB
 
Great bike. You're doing the right thing. Bring it up to date maintenance wise and you'll be able to ride it pretty much worry free. Those white saddle bags really should be on a "Motosport" model. I'll bet someone here will be willing to trade you a set of black ones for them.

Ride Safe
MB

Bags are in great shape and yes, I want to trade or find a used set in black.

Thank you,

H.
 
Habdala,
I have a real nice set of black bags I would trade for the white ones if you would like to ping me off list. thanks, rj
 
What are those two gauge-looking dials below the right side cover, just in front of the Krauser?

Looks like a work or union decals.

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After removing the oil filter I found this

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Gasket was not seated properly. Don't know how it did not leak more oil
 
Day 3

I removed mufflers and rear tire, is there a better way to remove the tire? it was a pain.

Mufflers removed
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Tire removed
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So far so good, gears in the rear looking good the only bad is the rear rotor, I will have to replace since has groves.
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Here is some good break fluid.

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I should have taken pictures of the front fluid, it looked like chocolate milk.
 
White Krausers

I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo. Where are you from? Mine are in MI.
 

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I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo. Where are you from? Mine are in MI.

My bags will look good on your bike but the bags might be spoken for but not sure I'm in Northern VA.
 
This is turning into an interesting project, one I've been looking for on an RS, so I'll just live vicariously through your work (and wallet, hehe).

If the oil filter wasn't sealed properly, its probably worth sliding the cylinders back to look at the cam followers (lifters) and take a looksy at the crank. There is something called the $2000 o-ring that, if you are new to airheads you should definitely read. It applies to oil cooled and non-oil cooled bikes. Suffice it to say that there is a lot of pressure going through the oil circuit and an incorrect o-ring installation can ruin an engine--hopefully not in your case. Keep the old filter and cut it open for inspection. Here are a couple links (gobs of information on this):

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?p=119895
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Oil.htm
http://www.airheads.org/content/view/189/49/

If you need a hand synching carbs, PM me, I am in Northern Va frequently and happy to help.
 
I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo. Where are you from? Mine are in MI.

Nice bike! His white Krausers are early, they are the bayonet/receiver style, so your pannier mounts would need the metal tang on the aft end. I think those are available on fleabay from time to time. :type
 
Annapolis is right about the 2,000 dollar O ring. It is worth checking out but if it sounds good and your oil light does not stay on you're probably fine. It seems your bike has some defered maintenance issues. In reviewing your photos it is apparent you need new seals for the pushrods. You probably already knew that.
 
Annapolis is right about the 2,000 dollar O ring. It is worth checking out but if it sounds good and your oil light does not stay on you're probably fine. It seems your bike has some defered maintenance issues. In reviewing your photos it is apparent you need new seals for the pushrods. You probably already knew that.

No problems with the oil light does go away after bike starts. Yes push rods seals are on the list and all the gaskets that will go along with the rod job.
 
I have a couple of sets of Krausers that I would be interested in trading for the White ones. Those look like real early ones as there is no indentition for the BMW logo.

Those are the Krauser Krausers. I have a set, as well as the white Motorsport bags the English bikes came with. There is a depression for the roundel right where those roundels that say "Krauser" are located. It's just not the same location as the BMW-branded ones. In order to help out another Motorsport owner, I'd consider trading off the white Krausers I have. PM me if you don't get a shot at these.

The OP's bike looks great, but those white bags really are out of place on it.
 
Day 4

Rear tire and final drive removal, the rear tire as I mention before is not easy to remove unless there is a better way to do it but even after removing the rear fender it was still difficult, I had to remove the caliper to free the rear tire. The swing arm was easy after reading a bit in how to remove the four bolts that attach the final drive to the tranny, I should have read it before I removed the tire and brake because you need to use the brake to stop the cardan to remove those bolts, lesson learned.

When I disconnected the plastic boot between the swing arm and tranny this watery oil poured out. Is that oil from the tranny? Looks like heavy oil.

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Swing arm and final drive removed

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This is what the bike looks now.

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no the shaft has its own gear lube, as long as the trans output and the final drive input seals are good. doesn't look bad as long as there isn't any rust in the u-joint or bell coupling regions, from the pics it looks like the clutch lever pin on the back of the tran is installed with the clip on top, make sure you put it in with the clip on the bottom.
 
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