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Centech AP-2 Installation Q ('06 R1200GS)

bobframe

New member
I'm about to begin the installation of a Centech AP-2 fuseblock on my '06 R1200GS and have a question about the relay trigger circuit.

I plan to tap into the accessory port wiring on the left side of the bike (below seat). My wiring into this post has an additional circ uit branching off this that terminates about 3" from the plug and has a small plastic two prong female plug at the end of the wires. The wires that terminate into this female plug appear to be Brown and some other color. I'm guessing that the Brown is Ground (-) and the other color is Positive (+).

Is my guess correct?

Since the Aux. port is switched, I presume that this "extension" lead/plug is also switched.

Can I tap into the "other colored wire" for a trigger?

Why? For no other reason than it would be a bit easier to reach.

Many thanks,

Bob
 
Hi Bob,

You're correct... brown is always ground on BMWs (cars and bikes) - the other wire should work fine, but note it has a 15 second delay on ignition off... so your relay controlled circuits will stay on that long.
 
FWIW, brown is always the color of ground wires on Mercedes, VW, and Porsches, too. This is the Bosch/DIN standard.
 
Thanks. I'll voltage test the extension plug before proceeding, but I think thats the route I'll take. Unless its super easy to find another switched circuit that doesn't have the delay...but these accessory plug wires are right there.
 
You need to know that sometimes when one taps into the accessory socket or other line monitored in a similar manner by the ZFE, the shutoff time for that circuit after you pull the key may go as much as 20-30 minutes for the first cycle or two. I have no idea why this happens but have observed it a few times as have dealer mechanics I know.

I didn't want the delay so pull my trigger from the solenoid running the power cutoff relay- the thing in the little cube next to the diagnostic connector. Has an additional virtue of being a covered and well protected connection.

Because BMW does not publish any circuit info for the bike computers, one cannot know whether they are properly protected against "reverse voltage" spikes from relay switching at the fuse panel or in accessory harnesses connected to it. (Likely they are, it is std practice to design for it). For that reason I always diode isolate triggers (having seen issues adding HID light to cages when not doing this). A 1500 PIV, 1 amp diode in line with the trigger work well- about 50 cents at the Shack..
 
This file should help you. R1200Gs wiring
That's excellent. As I understand it this is essentially mapping out the Can-bus system? If so, what are all the numbers showing on the individual circuits(like the one running to a turn signal or the heated grips?)? Would those show in an error code? Also, does this show the "allowable amperage" in each of the circuits? Do you have a version of this in a pdf that I could add to my GS tech documents? Or some other place to find this?
 
The CAN-bus is only used to connect the various controllers to each other. Wiring from the controllers to various switches and sensors are not part of the CAN-bus. Only BMW knows what error codes the controllers may throw. A PDF of the wiring diagram for '04-06 bikes can be found at http://www.r1200gs.info/R1200GS-WD2.pdf

If you haven't yet, check out the GS-911 diagnostics tool. It may be something you want to add to your tool kit.
 
The CAN-bus is only used to connect the various controllers to each other. Wiring from the controllers to various switches and sensors are not part of the CAN-bus. Only BMW knows what error codes the controllers may throw. A PDF of the wiring diagram for '04-06 bikes can be found at http://www.r1200gs.info/R1200GS-WD2.pdf

If you haven't yet, check out the GS-911 diagnostics tool. It may be something you want to add to your tool kit.

Still trying to unravel the mysteries of Can-bus. Is there a write up somewhere that will help me understand it?

RE: the GS-911 tool...I have no Windows computer so it looks like it wouldn't help. But I appreciate knowing about it.

Thanks for your help,

Bob
 
Still trying to unravel the mysteries of Can-bus. Is there a write up somewhere that will help me understand it?

http://www.bmwra.org/otl/canbus/

RE: the GS-911 tool...I have no Windows computer so it looks like it wouldn't help.

I use a Macbook Air running a very old copy of Windows XP in a virtual machine. It's needed and used for the GS-911, the BMW RepROM maintenance DVD, and an application for my DeLorme GPS. Virtual machine software is free to inexpensive. Finding a cheap legal copy of windows can be harder.
 
Fuse Block Complete!

I am pleased to say that my Centech AP-2 is now installed. Thought I'd post a few pictures to show how it turned out...in large part due to the help I received here. Many thanks!!!

Couple of things about the install...

1. The AP-2 is a combination block...5 switched circuits and 3 constant power circuits.
2. I tapped into the accessory outlet beneath the rider's seat for the relay trigger signal. You'll see an orange wire coming from the block...that's it.
3. The block and the relay for the block are both bolted to a piece of clear Lexan ($3.00 @ Lowes Home Improvement). The Lexan was custom fitted to the BMW's tool tray. This took some drawing and sawing and sanding and grinding and a bit of cussing. Still, maybe an hours worth of fiddling around. The block is secured to the black plactic tool tray using the original rubber straps...justr that they're securing a fuse block now instead of a bag of tools. Plan to use the area below the Lexan (bottom of the original black plastic tray) to hold a plastic box of fuses, etc.
4. I only have one device attached to the fuse block at this point (Gerbing heated gear)...more to follow.
5. The unattached red lead near the positive battery terminal will power my Stebel horn...it's an installation in progress.

On with the show.....
 

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Couple more shots

I'll try to load a couple more shots showing more detail of the Lexan backing ...

BTW, the second relay next to the block is for the Stebel horn. Had the space here, close to battery, relatively protected from water...seemed like a good spot.
 

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Showing the orange "trigger" lead that "Posi-taps" into auxillary port. Also showing the rubber straps that secure the fuse block onto the plastic tool tray.
 

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