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Fuel strip to float conversion for 07RT

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mikegalbicka

Back in the saddle again
I am in the process of writing up this conversion as I install it for your future reference. I am dealing with someone in the Netherlands and sometimes things get lost in translation. I have successfully removed the fuel pump, fuel strip and filler cap and have a few questions for you experienced wrenches which I will post below. Thanks for any insight you can provide as I start to button this back up.

https://www.proebeemer.nl/
 
Fuel vent/overflow hose

There is a two foot long 3/16” fuel hose running horizontally in the gas tank between the fuel filler cap and bottom of fuel pump flange attached with crimped on clamps. A vent pipe comes out of the top of the fuel pump and a hose is connected that runs under the seat and then down by the kickstand and just hangs there. I assume this hose is to allow any overflow gas to escape and/or any excess pressure in the tank. I need to lengthen it to about four feet so it won’t interfere with the operation of the float. It would run straight down from the fuel pump to the bottom of the tank then across the bottom and up the left side of the tank and up to the filler cap.

Will this reconfiguration cause any problem with the purpose of this hose?

BMW crimped clamps in the micro fiche require a special tool of course but they also call out a removable screw on clamp as a possible replacement. Would it be OK to visit my local parts store and just use their screw on fuel hose clamp? I assume there isn’t much pressure present.

I may also use a zip tie around the body of the fuel pump to hold this hose in place so it can’t easily shift around during reassembly.

Any glaring problems here this shade tree mechanic is missing?
 
Relay for controller

A customized electronic controller is installed inline between the fuel pump float and on board computer display to convert the float readings and display the fuel level properly. It draws only 20mA. He suggests using the accessory socket wires in the left fairing near the fuel pump as a relay trigger and provide 12v directly from the battery through the relay when triggered to the controller. He feels a relay is necessary due to the low draw of the controller.

Is a relay really necessary? I am tempted to wire it direct to a canbus circuit like the unused GPS harness provided.

If a relay is needed I am having trouble finding a proper one. Most seem to be 20, 30 or 40 amp which is all overkill. He suggested one used for a GPS. Any suggestions?

If a relay is used should there be an inline fuse between the battery and relay and if so what size?
 
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Any experienced hexhead wrenches out there who could weigh in on my questions above so I can get this project completed?
 
What a great project! I'm betting you will have quite the demand if this all comes together! I have been following the progress on the ProBeemer site, but as you said, there's a lot lost in translation.

My basic (not an engineer, nor do I play one on TV) thoughts: I would imagine that extending that vent line should not be a problem. As you said, there isn't any/minimal pressure, and I wouldn't imagine that the bike will care. Obviously using the correct type of line is the most important.

On the screw clamp - again, there isn't any pressure in the line, so you should be okay. As I understand it, the oetiker clamp is preferred because they create an even pressure all around the hose vs. screw types that could vary in pressure? However, many other bikes (Kbikes I know for sure) use the screw-type clamps.


I'd try a posi-tap into either the left hand side auxiliary outlet or GPS wiring harness. I've used one for a voltmeter install (most likely similar voltage draw as the controller board) without problems. Plus it will be nice to have a switched power source.

(Using a relay would still force you to tap into switched power somewhere on the bike anyway. The relay rating is for maximum amps, so it doesn't matter that much. Then you'd also want to have a fuse for the positive-side of the relay, and I suggest a 0.5 amp or 1.0 amp inline glass fuse. Why do all that work if you can just rely on the magic of the CANBUS?)
 
You should post on BMW Sport Touring Forum in the hex head section. Dirt Rider could answer all your questions.
 
Drneo66 - thanks for weighing in. I feel the same way as you on all of this. Based on his comments I wasn’t sure if perhaps the low draw of the controller wasn’t enough to energize the canbus circuit but I don’t know why else he would suggest the relay.

Ponch1 - thanks for the suggestion, will check it out
 
Drneo66 - thanks for weighing in. I feel the same way as you on all of this. Based on his comments I wasn’t sure if perhaps the low draw of the controller wasn’t enough to energize the canbus circuit but I don’t know why else he would suggest the relay.

Anecdotal evidence, the little light on my USB charger (no actual load) will light up when plugged in - that tells me ~15ma load will still energize the port. I hope your taking good notes and are going to a write up?
 
Looking forward to your progress. Recently bought a 2009RT and debating doing this proactively. Good luck!
:lurk
 
Do you suppose BMW designed the float sender to send the same messages to the CAN bus as the strip did?

The float sender bikes of course also had different gauge clusters.
 
vent hose and clamp

I wanted to use the removable vent hose clamp alternative for ease of use so I ordered it as specified but based on the specs I saw I feared it might be too big. After receiving everything and inspecting the fit I still feel that way. What do you think?

Screenshot_2020-09-29 MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts Technical Diagrams - R1200RT 05-09 (K26).png
 
After hand tightening the hose rotates easier than before. The clamp may be tight enough to keep it from blowing off but it isn't as tight as I would expect.

What say you?
 
I have used those with no issues and a few in same position seem to allow hose to rotate a bit as you have
 
After hand tightening the hose rotates easier than before. The clamp may be tight enough to keep it from blowing off but it isn't as tight as I would expect.

What say you?

It's just a vent hose, open to the atmosphere on one end, so there should not be any internal pressure buildup and nothing to cause it to blow off. As long as the hose will not fall off, it will be fine. I would have been satisfied with a zip tie.
 
That clamp is wrong. You can see that. Just because someone says it's a replacement for the Clic-R doesn't mean it actually is. If the hose is loose, fuel can leak into the hose inside the tank and then out wherever the hose leads. That's not BMW suggesting the 500 clamp as the replacement; it's just someone at MAX.

I thought the Proebeemer project was abandoned. It's good to see it active again. There was a thread on UKGSer about it where the issues were described; from memory the ability to install a float depends on whether or not the bike has ZFE-high or ZFE-low. The models with ZFE-low were made with both styles of sensor, and can be recoded somehow, The models with ZFE-high only had the fuel strip and don't have the programming for the float. Or something like that. The Proebeemer device makes the float look like the strip to the ZFE, right?
 
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