• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

oil type

It may be that 'oil related failures' aren't really what folks are trying to avoid when it comes to using boutique oils. Anecdotes exist that suggest some oils in the water boxer's wet clutch implementation may facilitate smoother shifting than others--or could be placebo. The diehard oil 'enthusiasts' tout oils made from Group IV and V base stocks as improving horsepower or shifting behavior for example--I tend to think the differences are so negligible as to be effectively irrelevant. The Castrol Power1 looks like a fabulous deal compared to Advantec Ultimate. OTOH, oil that is $15 per liter over $8.5 is such a paltry portion of total operating costs even a slight improvement in engine wear, shifting behavior, and oil change interval starts becoming justifiable.

And in the end I have to laugh about those who go on and on about oils ad nauseam and then go out and buy the cheapest oil filter. Yup, I have seen it on the forums.

I'll buy any reputable (well known) brand oil that meets the specifications.
 
Or all the riders that go on and on about how they only use one certain oil at $15/qt and in reality they only put 2500 miles a year on their bikes and change the oil every year. Worry about something else!
 
Or all the riders that go on and on about oil and only put 2500 miles a year on their bikes and change the oil every year.

Which is part of the recommended "time" change interval regardless of the mileage.

But then manufacturers cover their butt whenever possible. If we were paying $80 or more for a jug of synthetic as they do in Germany, we might think differently as well. Oil change intervals running on "long life" synthetic oils are 20K kilometers or more over there and have been for about/almost 20 years. My 911 would need 3 jugs for an 11.5 liter oil change $$$. Luckily I get my Mobil 1 jugs at Wal-Mart for $25 each.
 
I'am one of the OCD persons, everything gets changed before its sell by date
Engine oil is the cheapest insurance you have for a bike, car, boat or airplane
Bike oil gets changed at 3000 miles or before a long trip, consequently I've never added oil while on a trip
If your bike gets ridden daily I would follow factory recommendations if it sits for a length of time between rides you might consider changing at a lessor interval
Amazon had a fair deal on the new BMW oil by shell, since both my wife's and my BMW use the same it was worthwhile to purchase a 12 pack
We're good for a year now
 
Changing oil @ 3K miles is so 1950's.

Modern full synthetic oil is good for way longer than that. On my old Honda Civic, oil change intervals, even with Dino oil, were 7.5K miles. BMW's 6K interval is overly conservative, especially with their new, full synthetic oil.


Harry
 
Changing oil @ 3K miles is so 1950's.

Modern full synthetic oil is good for way longer than that. On my old Honda Civic, oil change intervals, even with Dino oil, were 7.5K miles. BMW's 6K interval is overly conservative, especially with their new, full synthetic oil.


Harry

:thumb
 
Oh yeah, Paul got it right again !
Oil threads are always so amusing because the subject stirs up emotion in some folks.
I was at an independent shop one time recently that specialized in Gold Wings and HD touring bikes.
Customer was picking up his Road King and was livid that the shop owner had put Amsoil 20w50 in his bike. He had specified the best oil be used and "isn't that HD 'Screamin' Eagle' oil the best?".
Well, the shop owner brings out a printed scientific test report of most of the available oils which listed additives and how they related to motorcycles. In stress test procedures they used in that particular test, Amsoil's product tested way up in the top of the pack and the HD product(low bid) tested way down low in the chart.
This gent would have none of the facts, he got hot under the collar with all kinds of threats. He even wanted to get physical with me, just because I happened to be there and agreed with the mechanic.
Well, it being a rather humid day and me not liking to sweat, I offered to dump and retrieve the substandard Amsoil from his bike and replace it with whatever he wanted provided that he go and purchase it. He could even watch us pour it in.
The guy declined the offer. He was in a hurry to go someplace and look cool.
 
Sure there is what oil to worry about, but what about what type of air should we use in the tires and how often should we change the air in the tires, and should we use regular air, and from what shop should we get the air, or should we use air from home, and if you are on the road what air should you use. I have heard for best results we should switch to Nitrogen?
 
Having pulled the pan on a car with 70,000 miles, owner said he followed 15,000 miles oil change schedule found at least 1/2 inch of sludge
Motor shot
Now move up to aircraft engines, example a basic overhaul for a Pratt Whitney 1340 40 grand
If the engine hasn't had frequent oil changes, adding a new cam and crank can add another 30k
P&W original manuals called for 100 hour changes, all the engine over haulers today call for 50 changes
The shop that did my engine said 25 hour changes would ensure minimum wear at overhaul time
Yes we use a premium 25-60 radial engine oil

Since I just switched to the new BMW oil on my RT, i'am going to stretch the changes to 5000 miles still being conservative

As Paul Graves said oil changes and good oil are a good thing
 
Having pulled the pan on a car with 70,000 miles, owner said he followed 15,000 miles oil change schedule found at least 1/2 inch of sludge
Motor shot
Now move up to aircraft engines, example a basic overhaul for a Pratt Whitney 1340 40 grand
If the engine hasn't had frequent oil changes, adding a new cam and crank can add another 30k
P&W original manuals called for 100 hour changes, all the engine over haulers today call for 50 changes
The shop that did my engine said 25 hour changes would ensure minimum wear at overhaul time
Yes we use a premium 25-60 radial engine oil

Since I just switched to the new BMW oil on my RT, i'am going to stretch the changes to 5000 miles still being conservative

As Paul Graves said oil changes and good oil are a good thing

When was your 1340 produced? According to the PW website, production ended in 1960.
 
Mine was probably made in 1949
Has 5000 hours total time
With 300 since major overhaul
While production stopped from Pratt there was/is enough new old stock parts to still build engines
Good cams and cranks are getting pricy
A couple after market scource's for just about everything
Bush planes and crop dusters have kept over haulers in business as the go through a engine in one or two seasons
 
Having pulled the pan on a car with 70,000 miles, owner said he followed 15,000 miles oil change schedule found at least 1/2 inch of sludge
Motor shot

I had just the opposite experience. Years ago, the oil pan on my Ford Taurus wagon developed a leak. It was replaced.

When I went to pick up the car from the garage, the mechanic said words to the effect of Wow! Cleanest oil pan I've ever seen, no sludge at all, and did you just change the oil yesterday?

The old oil pan was still there on the garage floor. I looked at it: it was spotlessly clean, no sludge.

No, the oil had been in there for a few weeks, but the key was that I used nothing but Mobil 1 full synthetic since the first oil change.

That V6 motor was the best thing in that car. I don't want to discuss the transmission.

The point is, with full synthetic oil, you will not get any sludge, ever. BMW's Advantec oil is full synthetic.

Harry

PS: the car at the time had probably 100K miles on it.
 
Last edited:
Having pulled the pan on a car with 70,000 miles, owner said he followed 15,000 miles oil change schedule found at least 1/2 inch of sludge
Motor shot

That has virtually nothing to do with the oil-change frequency and far more to do with the operating environment and type of driving the vehicle was subjected to. Cause and effect are what are important to know and understand.

Many vehicle manufacturers had the sludge issue on new cars well before the introduction of 10,000-15,000 change intervals.

Now move up to aircraft engines, example a basic overhaul for a Pratt Whitney 1340 40 grand
If the engine hasn't had frequent oil changes, adding a new cam and crank can add another 30k
P&W original manuals called for 100 hour changes, all the engine over haulers today call for 50 changes
The shop that did my engine said 25 hour changes would ensure minimum wear at overhaul time
Yes we use a premium 25-60 radial engine oil

Since I just switched to the new BMW oil on my RT, i'am going to stretch the changes to 5000 miles still being conservative

As Paul Graves said oil changes and good oil are a good thing
I see you are not using the 25-60 radial engine oil on the RTW. That's good, because they are completely different engines and have very little in common, especially maintenance requirements and schedules.

I could start talking about the requirements of my 3L V-6 diesel, or my Mercruiser 5.7L inboard motors, but they have nothing to do with an RTW and only serve to add convoluted and unconnected traffic to things.

My friend who is a P&W Engineer (P&W send him around the world to identify potential improvements to processes, etc.) and another who teaches Aircraft Engine Mechanics at a College both are into cars, motorcycles, and racing as I am and we all use completely different schedules and oils, etc., for each vehicle because they are different. With my race car (twice National Class Champion) the requirements were far closer to an aircraft engine than to my RTW, my diesel, or my boat, but I used a schedule and products that were best suited to the application.

Transferring what is appropriate for one application to a completely different, though related, application is a recipe for disaster. It is far better to use situation/vehicle specific criteria and go from there.
 
Alan
Yes it's somewhat apples to oranges, aviation oil and vehicle oil
Synethic oil is 100 times better than Dino oil in almost every application
I disagree on 15000 oil changes on vehicles, if you plan on keeping more frequent changes should be done
Shop that worked on my Mini Cooper frowned on extended oil changes especially with a turbo engine
Airplane engines (Dino oil) don't fair well without frequent changes
As for RT you've convinced me next change will be at 6000 miles, will keep a eye on consumption though
Thanks for insights
Jim
 
FWIW, IMO, turbo engines need a minute to "spool" down before the engine shuts off and the oil stops pumping.
Never had a gas turbo, maybe that "problem" has been addressed in the newer gas models where perhaps a driver came off a "normally aspirated" engine.
Those tiny needle bearings are sensitive.
OM
 
Back
Top