• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Shout Out - Apple Hydraulics

RPGR90s

Member
I had Apple Hydraulics re-sleeve the original master cylinder on my '74 R90s and it came out great.

With 150k, my last rebuild (new piston and seal) was still allowing a drip or two of brake fluid in the rubber catch boot, so I took advantage of their re-sleeving service.

Got it back, bench bleeded the M/C, hooked up the lines and finished the final bleed. Took all of 20 min.

https://www.applehydraulicsonline.c...ycles/products/bmw-motorcycle-master-cylinder

Good people. I'm just a customer.
 
Nice to hear positive feedback. I'll add a little more context to the thread title for future searches.
 
I was just wondering about this topic. I'm refreshing a new-to-me 92 GS. From peeling paint and stuck bolts I knew the MC must be leaking. I ordered the new piston kit and o-ring and cleaned up the sleeve and other lever parts.

It's not back together yet. But when it is...what if it still leaks? Is that the sign that I need a new housing with sleeve?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What was the condition of the master cylinder sleeve? Did you shine a light down the bore and see the surface? If it's pitted, then you'll need to either hone it to take out those pits which tend to cut the o-ring. If it's severely pitted, then you likely can't just do a simple hone and get rid of the pits. Brook Reams showed on one of the bikes he was working on his process to hone the cylinder bore. He used a good wooden dowel that was wrapped in some sandpaper which IIRC he was able to chuck up in a drill and then make some passes on the bore...maybe he just turned by hand. It's similar to what you might do on a cylinder.

One thing to remember when doing a yearly brake-bleed is to not push the piston travel to great extremes but rather just squeeze the hand lever about the same as you do during normal use in order to push new fluid from the reservoir to the brake caliper. Do so could push another otherwise good o-ring into some rough area in the bore.
 
Followed this advice. The bore had a bit of AlOx white scale. Polished it out with a wad of 0000 steel wool. Silky smooth now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top