jamesevans
New member
Just took a trip from Prince Edward Island via Quebec City up to Havre St. Pierre on the Cote-Nord of the Saint Lawrence (Quebec) on my 2009 R1200RT. I was heading for Natashquan - the end of the road, or at least the paved bit - but bad weather forecasts drove me back. That, and the cost of accommodation: $120 for an absolute fleapit in Sept-Iles, the cheapest room in town! There's a mining and hydro-power construction boom up here, and it shows.
The road was well-paved for the most part (when it wasn't under construction, which was quite a lot), winding and stunningly scenic when it came down to the coast, but almost no lookouts or places to pull off safely to enjoy the view: and with big 18-wheelers and logging trucks going 120 km/h plus, you need to get off the road! One logging truck tried to kill me, pulling over into the passing lane as I was coming past. Admittedly it was raining - he probably didn't see me (if he looked). Traffic after Tadoussac was pretty light. Tadoussac is always worth a visit - even in September there were belugas and some big whales to be see from the shore.
In mid-September all the tourist info places were closed, and most of the campgrounds. I did find a site near Baie-Trinite at Les Ilets Caribou, right on the shore, a fantastic display of Northern Lights thrown in with the usual campsite amenities, $28. Seemed like a bargain, although I could have done without my early call from the hunters on the first day of duck season.
Coming back I took the ferry from Godbout to Matane. Making a reservation was a real hassle, with a terrible website. The reservation seems to guarantee that you have to wait until AFTER everyone else gets on. I'd paid by card, and when I got on was handed a stamped ticket. On board, at 11 a.m., they weren't serving the brunch listed on the menu - apparently that's only on the early crossing! When I got off (last) they asked for the ticket then claimed I hadn't paid. Apparently you have to pay the balance at some other time - no-one told me where or when. I rode off and left them to it, I'm afraid.
All in all, a very mixed trip. In the summer with more reliable weather and campsites it would be more fun, and if you're on a GS and prepared to get off the road a bit I imagine there's lots of free camping opportunities. It really is some road, and if you like gravel you'll soon be able to go all the way to Blanc-Sablon.
The road was well-paved for the most part (when it wasn't under construction, which was quite a lot), winding and stunningly scenic when it came down to the coast, but almost no lookouts or places to pull off safely to enjoy the view: and with big 18-wheelers and logging trucks going 120 km/h plus, you need to get off the road! One logging truck tried to kill me, pulling over into the passing lane as I was coming past. Admittedly it was raining - he probably didn't see me (if he looked). Traffic after Tadoussac was pretty light. Tadoussac is always worth a visit - even in September there were belugas and some big whales to be see from the shore.
In mid-September all the tourist info places were closed, and most of the campgrounds. I did find a site near Baie-Trinite at Les Ilets Caribou, right on the shore, a fantastic display of Northern Lights thrown in with the usual campsite amenities, $28. Seemed like a bargain, although I could have done without my early call from the hunters on the first day of duck season.
Coming back I took the ferry from Godbout to Matane. Making a reservation was a real hassle, with a terrible website. The reservation seems to guarantee that you have to wait until AFTER everyone else gets on. I'd paid by card, and when I got on was handed a stamped ticket. On board, at 11 a.m., they weren't serving the brunch listed on the menu - apparently that's only on the early crossing! When I got off (last) they asked for the ticket then claimed I hadn't paid. Apparently you have to pay the balance at some other time - no-one told me where or when. I rode off and left them to it, I'm afraid.
All in all, a very mixed trip. In the summer with more reliable weather and campsites it would be more fun, and if you're on a GS and prepared to get off the road a bit I imagine there's lots of free camping opportunities. It really is some road, and if you like gravel you'll soon be able to go all the way to Blanc-Sablon.
