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Need DIY R1200RT Clutch Plate Installation Advice

Dimond

New member
My R1200RT '08 has 120,000 miles (mostly done via 80 mile round trips to work with 30% of this city driving and the rest freeway driving) - just recently purchased it - the clutch works fine - but I am guessing soon it will not - so planning on an eventual DIY clutch replacement project - have some questions:

1. Normally I wait for things to break - but I ride less in the winter here in the San Francisco area - so wondering if I should just change the clutch and be done with it. What would you do?

2. My BMW manual says that I need to put in a couple of screws on the left/right side and install a couple of threaded pins. as I separate the rear frame. What is the purpose of these pins and do I need to get special pins or is there an alternative?

3. After removing the clutch, thrust plate, and clutch housing I am to check for wear on rotating surfaces and for scoring. Is this going to be an obvious check - or do I need to get someone experienced in clutch repair to do this? Measuring clutch wear seems to be straightforward - this does not concern me. However, wear on other items is a judgement call and not sure how to proceed. My parts costs could range from $60 (knock-off plate only) to over $1000 and I do not wish to spend money 'just to be on the safe side'. What are the chances that I will need to replace other than just the clutch plate? And will I know by looking what other items really need be replaced?

4. Here is a link to a new $60 clutch plate. Anyone tried one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Disc...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d8fdeb56&vxp=mtr . I am OK going with a Chinese replacement unless someone has had a bad experience with them.

5. Is there a life expectancy associated with items in the clutch OTHER than the actual clutch plate?

My IDEAL goal would be to buy the clutch plate and then disassemble the clutch components and see what else I need to buy as BMW OEM parts - then proceed with final repair. Input is appreciated. Thanks.
 
I would keep on riding and fret less:wave

unless you smell burnt clutch lining or are experiencing a slipping clutch ...not really an issue..
even at the mileage you have, I wouldn't be seeking the work.
 
My R1200RT '08 has 120,000 miles (mostly done via 80 mile round trips to work with 30% of this city driving and the rest freeway driving) - just recently purchased it - the clutch works fine - but I am guessing soon it will not - so planning on an eventual DIY clutch replacement project - have some questions:

1. Normally I wait for things to break - but I ride less in the winter here in the San Francisco area - so wondering if I should just change the clutch and be done with it. What would you do?
I'm with the rest of these folks - unless you otherwise want a project, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

2. My BMW manual says that I need to put in a couple of screws on the left/right side and install a couple of threaded pins. as I separate the rear frame. What is the purpose of these pins and do I need to get special pins or is there an alternative?
That's so the weight of the tranny as you pull it out and put it in is taken by the pins and not by the transmission input shaft; if you don't put the input shaft in straight it may damage the pilot bushing. There are special pins available from BMW but if I was doing it I'd find the appropriate size bolt and just cut the head off. Maybe cut a slot for a screwdriver in the end.

3. After removing the clutch, thrust plate, and clutch housing I am to check for wear on rotating surfaces and for scoring. Is this going to be an obvious check - or do I need to get someone experienced in clutch repair to do this? Measuring clutch wear seems to be straightforward - this does not concern me. However, wear on other items is a judgement call and not sure how to proceed. My parts costs could range from $60 (knock-off plate only) to over $1000 and I do not wish to spend money 'just to be on the safe side'. What are the chances that I will need to replace other than just the clutch plate? And will I know by looking what other items really need be replaced?
Normally a clutch is replaced as a pack: friction disc and pressure plate. Changing the clutch on an RT is such a big hassle, with splitting the frame and all, that most folks opt for replacing all the wear parts inside as a matter of course. That includes disc, plate, rear main seal, tranny input seal, maybe balancer shaft seal. When I do a clutch on a car or truck I typically surface the flywheel (you may not need to if it's not grooved) and replace the throwout bearing as well. Well less than $1000.

4. Here is a link to a new $60 clutch plate. Anyone tried one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Disc...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d8fdeb56&vxp=mtr . I am OK going with a Chinese replacement unless someone has had a bad experience with them.

5. Is there a life expectancy associated with items in the clutch OTHER than the actual clutch plate?
See #3 above. Paul may have some more specific comments.

My IDEAL goal would be to buy the clutch plate and then disassemble the clutch components and see what else I need to buy as BMW OEM parts - then proceed with final repair. Input is appreciated. Thanks.

Good luck with it.

JayJay
 
DIY R1200RT Clutch

I did my '06 R1200RT balancer shaft seal replacement by myself. I did not use the pins, just careful alignment (both vertical and horizontal) with a floor jack under the transmission. I also inspected the clutch. Any burning or scoring of the flywheel merits replacement or machining. With the mileage on your bike, I would at least replace the friction plate and pressure plate bolts. For added insurance, replace the balancer shaft seal. Pay attention to the placement of the transmission bolts. Take many pictures before you disassemble. I used various color paint markers to identify the many electrical connectors. Take your time. You'll be fine.
 
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