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Bad load shedding relay?

2whelman

New member
Ok, something different, I suspected this problem was self inflicted, (wiring mistake) but has not proved itself to be so just yet. I recently did a few upgrades on my 85 K100RT. I installed a 50 amp alternator with the proper drive and nut, 2, 55 watt fog lamps, 2 60 watt driving lamps and added an LED license plate frame.
Also added Dual Star heated grips with permanant mount Heat-Troller.
Everything works great, keeping warm, can see and be seen. Friday night I was out on a ride and stopped for a minute. When I started the bike, the turn signals, horn, heat troller light were all dead. And most concerning was the fact that ALL of the lights were on, head light, both sets of driving/fog lights, and all were very dim. I switched off the aux. light switches and everything is back to normal. SO... everything is ok, unless I start the bike with the one of the aux light sets turned on. My first thought was that I have wired it wrong somewhere, but then remembered that the heated grips and heat-troller was not wired into any of the light circuit, only the switched power lead from the load shedding relay. Can the load shedding relay be overloaded by leaving the aux lights on when starting? The relay seems to work ok, all circuits are opened properly when the starter button is pressed, but with the aux light switch on, it seems to not make full contact when started. And, if this is the case, why would both sets of lights come on. Both of the aux lights are wired with their own set of relays, fuses, ground wires. I added switches on the dash board panel to be able to operate them independant of the main lighting. They are wired in to operate with the high/low switch. I tapped into the wires from the special equipment plug. Yellow wires (low), white wires for high beam. I can not see where they can both be coming on at once, unless I misread the prints in the Haynes manual, even though I did check the circut for operation before wiring. I can walk someone through this step by step if your willing to tackle this. In the mean time, I will shut off the lights before starting. Has anyone had experience with the load shedding relay going bad? Maybe this is causing the glowing bulb monitor problem as well, since the problems are showing up at the same time, after the work was performed.
 
2whelman said:
Ok, something different, I suspected this problem was self inflicted, (wiring mistake) but has not proved itself to be so just yet. I recently did a few upgrades on my 85 K100RT. I installed a 50 amp alternator with the proper drive and nut, 2, 55 watt fog lamps, 2 60 watt driving lamps and added an LED license plate frame.
Also added Dual Star heated grips with permanant mount Heat-Troller.
Everything works great, keeping warm, can see and be seen. Friday night I was out on a ride and stopped for a minute. When I started the bike, the turn signals, horn, heat troller light were all dead. And most concerning was the fact that ALL of the lights were on, head light, both sets of driving/fog lights, and all were very dim. I switched off the aux. light switches and everything is back to normal. SO... everything is ok, unless I start the bike with the one of the aux light sets turned on. My first thought was that I have wired it wrong somewhere, but then remembered that the heated grips and heat-troller was not wired into any of the light circuit, only the switched power lead from the load shedding relay. Can the load shedding relay be overloaded by leaving the aux lights on when starting? The relay seems to work ok, all circuits are opened properly when the starter button is pressed, but with the aux light switch on, it seems to not make full contact when started. And, if this is the case, why would both sets of lights come on. Both of the aux lights are wired with their own set of relays, fuses, ground wires. I added switches on the dash board panel to be able to operate them independant of the main lighting. They are wired in to operate with the high/low switch. I tapped into the wires from the special equipment plug. Yellow wires (low), white wires for high beam. I can not see where they can both be coming on at once, unless I misread the prints in the Haynes manual, even though I did check the circut for operation before wiring. I can walk someone through this step by step if your willing to tackle this. In the mean time, I will shut off the lights before starting. Has anyone had experience with the load shedding relay going bad? Maybe this is causing the glowing bulb monitor problem as well, since the problems are showing up at the same time, after the work was performed.

Dear 2 wheel man.. (dunno your name since there is no sig..)

It is almost impossible to read and figure out what you're asking due to the length of your 2nd or 3rd paragraph.

But - I'll hazard a guess - you have something wired so it's creating a loop that passes power through your new lights to the load-shed circuit somehow.

Since I can see what you have done, my suggestion is - start undoing what you did until the problem stops occuring. Once that happens you've found the cause of the problem and hopefully can figure out why it caused a problem.

And please use paragraphs..

Best,
 
The name is Gene, sorry for the rambling story. I did get a little verbose, didnt I, but didnt want to leave any thing out.
Is there any history of the load shedding relay failing in this manner, ie. contacts not closing fully after the starting sequence?
 
I'll hazard a $.05

I'm thinking it's part of linking into the stock harness: the high/low switch along with a separate switch. As though some lights were getting their power through other lights. I'll vote Dons' way: disconnect until clear. Good Hunting...<<<)))
 
2whelman said:
The name is Gene, sorry for the rambling story. I did get a little verbose, didnt I, but didnt want to leave any thing out.
Is there any history of the load shedding relay failing in this manner, ie. contacts not closing fully after the starting sequence?

Hi Gene :clap

I know of no history of the load-shed relay failing in that manner. I have a rule of troubleshooting - "Look where you last worked" - damn near infallable.

I sort of suspect some odd circuit configuration has been made that is feeding power to where it shouldn't be when it shouldn't be.

Best,
 
As Don said look where you were last. If disconnecting items one at a time does not solve your problem, one thing that has been known to cause weird electrical problems is a dirty starter. The starter provides a ground path for the electrical circuits and needs to be cleaned periodicallly.
 
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