Add on Fuse panel

[jstrube]

Looking to add a fuse panel to my 2015 RT. Is there one people are finding works well? I need to attach my heated jacket, tank bag plug, and charge cord, as well as a radar detector.

I think I had a Blue Sea on my last bike.

Is there one that works well that has a relay? I don't want to spend a fortune.

I am mostly worried about the current required by the heated gear.

Thanks!

 

[junkjohn]

Check out www.fuzeblocks.com Nice Mustang I have a 64.5 resto mod.

 

[Omega Man]

This Best of Forum May be of interest-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?56217-12V-Power-Distribution

OM

 

[jstrube]

Check out www.fuzeblocks.com Nice Mustang I have a 64.5 resto mod.

I've had it since 84! It is definitely a restomod. EFI, 5 speed, etc...

I saw that fuseblock, was worried about it working for my heated gear. I believe my Powerlet gear takes a 15A fuse...

 

[leafman60]

You may not need an old-fashion fuze block. Maybe you should consider going to a HEXezCAN module.

https://www.hexezcan.com/

https://www.twistedthrottle.com/hex...adventure-14-18-r1200r-rs-15-18-r1200rt-14-18

You can wire up all of the add-ons that you mentioned and still utilize the no-fuze CAN BUS system. The HEXezCAN also allows you to do much much more. Read about it.

I have all of the accessories (and more) that you mentioned on my '16 GS. The ezCAN works VERY well for me. Very simple too. I suggest going direct to battery with the heated gear using the heated gear wiring pigtail(s), though.

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[akbeemer]

I also recomend the Hex ezCAN. Uses your existing switches to contro accessories and requires no relays or additional switches. Fewer wires and the device is 1/4 the size of most fuse blocks. If you do decide to use a fuse block, then the Fuze Block brand is a very good choice with its internal relay.

 

[jstrube]

You may not need an old-fashion fuze block. Maybe you should consider going to a HEXezCAN module.

https://www.hexezcan.com/

https://www.twistedthrottle.com/hex...adventure-14-18-r1200r-rs-15-18-r1200rt-14-18

You can wire up all of the add-ons that you mentioned and still utilize the no-fuze CAN BUS system. The HEXezCAN also allows you to do much much more. Read about it.

I have all of the accessories (and more) that you mentioned on my '16 GS. The ezCAN works VERY well for me. Very simple too. I suggest going direct to battery with the heated gear using the heated gear wiring pigtail(s), though.

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OK Guys, I need to look deeper into this...

So it looks like this thing will manage my radar detector, my cell phone charger, but not my heated vest, nor my plug in charge cord. My goal is to minimize connections to the battery.

I'll check this out, as well as the Can Opener from Clearwater, as I will probably do their lights eventually.

 

[khafner]

fuses

There is the pdm60 with 6 circuits and 2 that do 15 amps each. I put a power outlet behind the seat on my right. I figure I have to plug the jacket in so where doesn't matter. Plus the powerlet lets me get power from the battery and can charge thru it. The hex/can while it has 4 outlets if you don't use the horn on one circuit you could end up with only three circuits. You can use two for lights and have two more circuits. With it you can dim your lights. Its max is 30 amps. Good luck choosing there are many more choices out there.

 

[PoorUB]

Just run your heated gear right to the battery with an inline fuse holder. no need to get fancy. If are not on the bike what is the chances you are leaving your heated gear on the bike, hooked up? Slim, I would think. Some of the other, lighter circuits can be connected to the Powerlet circuit. It is good for 10 amps.

The Hex EasyCan is a great deal, if you really need it.

I ran a fuse block on my '05 Harley, that was the last time I went that way, three bikes ago. Now I cheat and rob power off other circuits that have the capacity for the extra load.

 

[Anyname]

There is the pdm60 with 6 circuits and 2 that do 15 amps each. I put a power outlet behind the seat on my right. I figure I have to plug the jacket in so where doesn't matter. Plus the powerlet lets me get power from the battery and can charge thru it. The hex/can while it has 4 outlets if you don't use the horn on one circuit you could end up with only three circuits. You can use two for lights and have two more circuits. With it you can dim your lights. Its max is 30 amps. Good luck choosing there are many more choices out there.

+1 on the PDM60. It doesn't need fuses and resets itself after a fault. You can also determine the length of time before a circuit powers up after the ignition goes on. I have mine set to wait 15 seconds before the auxiliary lights go on, that lets me start the bike without he additional load. i think it can also delay power down on a circuit as well.

 

[patm]

OK Guys, I need to look deeper into this...

So it looks like this thing will manage my radar detector, my cell phone charger, but not my heated vest, nor my plug in charge cord. My goal is to minimize connections to the battery.

I'll check this out, as well as the Can Opener from Clearwater, as I will probably do their lights eventually.

I've installed this fuse box PC-8 from eastern beaver. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

 

[khafner]

lites

Be careful with lights. The trend is to go with higher kelvin 6000 and up. Unfortunately the human eye sees best between 4300-5000K. While your brain may "think" the 6000K is brighter it is actually dimmer and your brain has a much harder time seeing movement and being able to concentrate. I wish more lite companies would be up front about this and not sell what the going trend is. This is very important as you age. Thats the reason car manufacturers do lites between 4300-5000K.

 

[skibumwi]

+1 on PDM 60 - works great.

 

[kunkies]

Although I do not have one (yet), I agree on the HexCam recommendation. As an alternative check out this offering from Aborreal Systems called a Neutrino Blackbox and all accessories you run through it are configurable/adjustable via bluetooth to your smart phone.

https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/

 

[jstrube]

Be careful with lights. The trend is to go with higher kelvin 6000 and up. Unfortunately the human eye sees best between 4300-5000K. While your brain may "think" the 6000K is brighter it is actually dimmer and your brain has a much harder time seeing movement and being able to concentrate. I wish more lite companies would be up front about this and not sell what the going trend is. This is very important as you age. Thats the reason car manufacturers do lites between 4300-5000K.

I plan to go Clearwater. Waiting to see them at the Rally next year!

 

[leafman60]

Sorry to continue the thread drift to lights but, before spending big on fashionable lights, have a look at the Rigid products. They are USA-made, built much stronger than anything, work great and go for much less money.

I am currently using the driving beam version of these :

https://www.rigidindustries.com/d-series-pro-specter-diffused-heavy-duty-black-2-lights-522313.html

They have the heavy isolator mounts but a less expensive version is also available with a standard robust bracket. These things make the Clearwater lights look like sissy lights (lol).

You can find them discounted if you search around. The Rigid are also dimmable when powered through the HEXezCan.

https://advrider.com/f/attachments/20181216_155434-1-jpg.1467455/

.

 

[jstrube]

Sorry to continue the thread drift to lights but, before spending big on fashionable lights, have a look at the Rigid products. They are USA-made, built much stronger than anything, work great and go for much less money.

I am currently using the driving beam version of these :

https://www.rigidindustries.com/d-series-pro-specter-diffused-heavy-duty-black-2-lights-522313.html

They have the heavy isolator mounts but a less expensive version is also available with a standard robust bracket. These things make the Clearwater lights look like sissy lights (lol).

You can find them discounted if you search around. The Rigid are also dimmable when powered through the HEXezCan.

https://advrider.com/f/attachments/20181216_155434-1-jpg.1467455/

.

Well, half of the reason for wiring the bike up will be lights. Not a bad diversion.

But square?